Thrust Arm removal

[jcwhy]

[‘94 530i Auto]

Apologize, I know this topic had been covered previously.

Appreciate any advise on removing the thrust arms joint at the strut housing. I’ve hit it with the sledge (per Bentley), pickle forked it (tough clearance w/shield obstruction) , no luck. I know the joint is not tapered so I expected it to not be so difficult.

Do I need the tool?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks.




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[Billyj]

Air hammer close to the balljoint on the arm, or slap the knuckle with a hammer in such a way that the majority of the load is directed into/against the balljoint in question ie hit it directly where the balljoint runs through and hit it so that the force is directed inline with the control arm.
If that doesn't work disconnect the side that is attached to the car(if you've done this already you must reattach to attempt manual hammer method)
Now disconnect the bushing from the car and leverage the arm away from the knuckle, placing leverage on the joint, now smack the ARM near the balljoint, in a direction that complements the static force already applied, If you can use an air hammer for this method

[shogun]

some more pics, scroll down here where some pics are still working http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showt...Arm-Ball-Joint

[moroza]

I know the joint is not tapered so I expected it to not be so difficult.

Who told you that? It is tapered. A cylindrical stud would be a lot more trouble, not less.

You can remove the strut from the steering knuckle, which'll give you more room for picklefork and other tools. If those aren't enough, remove the assembly of steering plate and both arms (and tierods wherever is convenient to remove), and put it in a press. On the last E34 front end I did, the thrust arms came out by putting the arm on a jackstand and hammering the knuckle, one lower arm came loose with a picklefork, and the other refused to budge except in a 20-ton press.

Put anti-seize on the balljoint studs when installing the replacements. If the previous installer had done so, you wouldn't be here asking for this advice.

[ross1]

You mention the pickle fork is obstructed against the brake backing plate. If you get e better angle to at least get some tension going on hit the PF in as far as you can , leave it in place then hit the knuckle, like you hate it.

[Sir Montalbon]

This has always worked for me. About $15 from Harbor Freight. Attach it, get it good and tight, then attack with a BFH. If that doesn't work, apply heat and repeat the BFH treatment. Good luck!

hf ball joint tool.jpg

[jcwhy]

Thanks for providing various options. I’m thinking to start with the harbor freight tool and proceed to removing the steering plate/assembly if that doesn’t work. Clearly more force required to get this joint separated than I thought.


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[eddycooper]

The Harbor Freight tool should do it. First, soak the top and bottom of the tapered joint with penetrating oil. My strategy is to get the tool super tight and then start hitting with a hammer from various angles. Then tighten the tool some more and repeat the hammer strikes. I've only had one that required a shop press to separate.

[Billyj]

Never needed a shop press to separate a balljoint... Hit it really really hard, put down your purse if you need to

[ross1]

Never needed a shop plate to separate a balljoint... Hit it really really hard, put down your purse if you need to

[papa t]

Never needed a shop plate to separate a balljoint... Hit it really really hard, put down your purse if you need to

Great suggestion. Sometimes those purses can get in the way.

I broke two harbor freight tools on one of my 540i's before I got a solid one (when they break it makes you want to pick up your purse again and look for a clean pair of undies). I found getting the tool in place and pretty tight before walloping the ball joint with a 5lb sledge hammer works consistently for me.

This is a rite of passage. You can do it!

[south42]

I just use the harbor freight tool and an electric wrench and crank the bolt until it pops out. I have never had to use a hammer.

Andy

[Billyj]

The hammer method is a bit crude, and can F up the knuckle especially if you don't hit it hard enough and have to hit it 50+ times... I guess I just learned how to work in a shop where time meant someone else's money... I hate being rushed

[cirrusblau]

If you're gonna be hitting the knuckle I would advise to remove the ABS wheel speed sensor. Hitting the knuckle hard enough can kill the sensor. I've killed sensors this way. Now I use a ball joint removal tool. Did this last week when I refreshed the front end of my E32.

[Billyj]

Love the color and the m pars Mr. Blau

[cirrusblau]

Love the color and the m pars Mr. Blau

Thanks!

[m60power]

I usually avoid Harbor Freight tools but the one mentioned above has done lower and upper control arms and steering tierods on both my e32s without breaking. It fits the e32/e34 control arms perfectly. Although the tool is now visibly bent so if I need to do ball joints again I'll buy another one.

[jcwhy]

Okay, I got the joint removed at the steering plate using the harbor freight tool. Tightened it down good and whacked on the bottom of the tool where it sits on the bolt. Right side needed to be persuaded with heat. Left side just popped out on its own. Great. Now I’m dealing with the tight clearance on the 22mm nut at the cross member. Some people recommended grinding down a wrench. Couldn’t find any pictures/etc but that’s one option. I could remove the stabilizer bar like some people did but couldn’t find the torque specs for mounting it back to the chassis.

Thanks again all.


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07129922745

[moroza]

Roughly 1 in 2 wrenches are thin enough to fit over that nut without removing the swaybar. Browse a nearby pawn shop's wrench bin for one that fits (7/8" is good too).

[jcwhy]

Got it! Ground down a 22mm Home Depot special and it did the trick. Note to anyone else trying to get this nut off. Attack it from the wheel side rather than under the car because there’s more clearance for the wrench.

Thanks again for everyone’s comments!




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[Sir Montalbon]

I've been backing out the sub-frame bolts just enough to give me access to those nuts. Your pic has shown me the light. I need to sacrifice a wrench to the grinder before I do this job again. Glad you got it all done!

[Spaceturtle917]

I've heard about cutting out the rubber from the joint so the fork is hitting metal which transfers more of the hit. If you get what I'm saying.

[shogun]

Just grind down a cheao 7/8" or 22 mm wrench, it will fit without having to lower the crossmember
http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_26.htm

[Billyj]

Torque specs on BMW - Gutten Tïght

[fo3]

When I did mine I didn't need to grind down an open end spanner, a normal one will fit if the nut is orientated just right. Biggest pain is going out to buy a 22mm if you haven't already got one.
(E: actually - correction I think my 22mm spanner didn't fit but I used my open-end 7/8" attachment thingy for a torque wrench that I have from back in my old refrig career that fit without modifying.
I think the amount of grinding down in the above photo was a bit excessive? Well I hope so because next time I do the job and I can't find my old trade tools I don't want to grind that much out of my combo ratchet ring/open ender 22mm!

I also used a similar joint separator to that harbour freight tool. It works a beauty, I think I got mine from supercheap or autobarn in aussieland.