Are the majority of you installing the head studs in the block with the head off? I’m trying to avoid taking the head off, and I’m having a heckuva time getting the 12 point nut and washer down in there let alone getting a socket in place-keep running into the bottom of the lifter trays.
I’ve tried a dental pick, some pliers, a spring loaded grabby thing and my long E12 socket tool with a 12 point adapter I made:
No luck. I really don’t wanna take the VANOS apart or the head off, it was a bitch ( well a pain anyway) to re-time the cams.
Should I just pull the head???
Thanks
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Cams and trays out.
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You can do it with the cams and trays in. But you may want a wobble extension on a short socket and you may need to grind down the socket to make it skinnier. And yes, the cams have flats or grooves you can take advantage of for clearance if needed.
I did mine without removing the cams. I did have to grind two flats on the castle nut at 180 degrees from one another so that they would slide past the cams. I also left the bmw washers on place.
WOT
If you have 10mm head studs, this is possible.
With 11mm head studs, I've got E14 nuts......which you have to pull the cam trays for....
I use a shaved 12mm socket (turn it on a belt sander). Works well.
I can't remember for sure but I think the duralast socket works but 3/8 drive
Thanks for the input everyone. I’ll shave my 12mm socket down some more. I’m primarily having trouble with head bolts #1 and 2-seems like there is more “meat” around the cam tray in that area. The remaining bolts are MUCH less obstructed. I’ll leave the OEM washers in place also-thx hsv.
On a somewhat unrelated note, is it acceptable to post pics directly from a phone, or is third party hosting (imgur etc) encouraged? It’s been years since I’ve posted to forums.
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