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Thread: M62TU overheating

  1. #1
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    M62TU overheating

    My water pump seal failed so I decided to change it, nothing out of the ordinary, but now it's overheating I changed thermostat sensors, and thermostat. But I'm still running about 3/4 hot the coolant level shows where it's supposed to be when full cold. I tired bleeding it twice I even I purchased a coolant air bleeder, bleed the air out and it's still getting hot.


    Any suggestions are welcome!

  2. #2
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    very often this is still air in the system and may take 100 attempts (ok, not quite 100).

    Can you describe the scenario when the car overheats. just sitting? driving? a/c on?

    Thinking bleed is still number 1; I would look at your fans - are they working properly?
    1997 740iL; 5/96 build. Purchased 12/04. Off the road build project 2013 - 2021. back on road 3/2021. Became daily driver (only vehicle) 6/12/2021. Still not completed. Stay tuned as the adventure continues.

  3. #3
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    After 5min of reaching its "optimal operating temp" it begins its slow climb towards 3/4 I proceede to to put the heaters to 90f, temp regulates near (a little higher) optimal temp and then starts rising back up to just a hair shy of 3/4 highway or city has little to no difference aux fan was replaced in December, and couch fan is pulling air in as intended due to whooshing sound I hear betweeem 1-4k
    if I sit in 3rd or 4th between 2.5k-3.5 it soemthimes drops a bit not much. (city driving)

    I was starting to fear a blown head gasket but my oil is clean and I don't have white smoke or a sweet smell coming from the exhaust

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frenchi View Post
    My water pump seal failed so I decided to change it, nothing out of the ordinary, but now it's overheating I changed thermostat sensors, and thermostat. But I'm still running about 3/4 hot the coolant level shows where it's supposed to be when full cold. I tired bleeding it twice I even I purchased a coolant air bleeder, bleed the air out and it's still getting hot.


    Any suggestions are welcome!
    When engine cold and not running, open the bleeder screw and pour coolant in until the coolant runs out around the bleeder screw, then shut the bleeder screw.
    Last edited by ryunk; 02-20-2018 at 06:14 AM.

  5. #5
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryunk View Post
    When engine cold and not running, open the bleeder screw and pour coolant in until the coolant runs out around the bleeder screw, then shut the bleeder screw.
    So basically overfill it to force the air out?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Timm View Post
    I tried that no luck yet she's still getting warm, but let me take a moment and thank you for the wonderful website you have! The moment I'm sitting at 4K the temp begins to drop between 3/4 and optimal but the moment it sits it creeps up all fans are working aux fan is spinning when the temp surpasses half. I don't understand... it's not rocket science

  7. #7
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    Not to beat the dead horse here, but try bleeding it again. Also, did you crack/break anything during removal and install of parts? Maybe your system is not pressurizing due to a crack somewhere?

    And finally, did you use quality parts? Maybe tstat is not closing/opening property OR water pump not circulating proper amount of coolant unless you really rev up the engine? Just some thoughts.
    Current: 2007 Z4 M Coupe (blue/black)
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  8. #8
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    If the viscous-coupled fan is whooshing away then the coolant is circulating fine through the radiator (which it wouldn't with an air lock). So, that leaves the thermostat or just poor coolant circulation - the article covers this. But, dud thermostat seems the most likely candidate (even though you have just changed it).

    It is worth saying that if the temperature gauge comes off the centre point - that's bad news as the temperature gauge is buffered and the coolant temperature is probably reaching 120C - 130C
    Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i


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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timm View Post
    the temperature gauge is buffered and the coolant temperature is probably reaching 120C - 130C
    I wondered why my gauge never moved off dead center, even when the car smelled hot.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ruskii View Post
    Not to beat the dead horse here, but try bleeding it again. Also, did you crack/break anything during removal and install of parts? Maybe your system is not pressurizing due to a crack somewhere?

    And finally, did you use quality parts? Maybe tstat is not closing/opening property OR water pump not circulating proper amount of coolant unless you really rev up the engine? Just some thoughts.
    Nothing broke the disassembly and assembly was flawless. All sensors are OEM but the thermo isn't bc I needed something asap (daily driver) and amazon had something on prime. The vacuum system I have for adding coolant shows that the whole system holds vacuum at 25-26psi well in the green range.
    Last edited by Frenchi; 02-21-2018 at 10:03 PM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timm View Post
    If the viscous-coupled fan is whooshing away then the coolant is circulating fine through the radiator (which it wouldn't with an air lock). So, that leaves the thermostat or just poor coolant circulation - the article covers this. But, dud thermostat seems the most likely candidate (even though you have just changed it).

    It is worth saying that if the temperature gauge comes off the centre point - that's bad news as the temperature gauge is buffered and the coolant temperature is probably reaching 120C - 130C
    I saw somewhere that there is a thermo that opens earlier, between 80-85c would you recommend purchasing that or staying OEM. I'm willing to buy another thermo and water pump if that's what it takes.

    Link to blog:
    http://www.bmwlogicseven.com/?p=4035
    http://www.bimmerworld.com/Cooling/Thermostats/

    Is there a full kit? Or do we have to modify the housings?

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  13. #13
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    My guess is as Tim said there's not enough flow of coolant, I was on the highway today at 3.5k at 1--+mph and the temp regulated to the mid point, I picked up a water pump on the fly and will be installing it tonight

    will keep you posted

  14. #14
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    I understand your frustration. This tool (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...air-purge-tool) helped me deal with the air pockets the last time I messed with the coolant system. Not absolutely necessary but I like having tools.

    -Messan
    The above is my 2 cents. Take it or leave it.
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  15. #15
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    Consider swapping coolant over to Evans coolant while you trouble shooting all this.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoriDori View Post
    Consider swapping coolant over to Evans coolant while you trouble shooting all this.
    When doing this change, I understand that it is critical to remove all traditional coolant before adding Evans. If so, a person really needs to be prepared to take that step to fully evacuate all coolant.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by 01740ISP View Post
    I understand your frustration. This tool (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...air-purge-tool) helped me deal with the air pockets the last time I messed with the coolant system. Not absolutely necessary but I like having tools.

    -Messan
    I had purchased one of these and then when it came time, I forgot about it and we just filled with coolant and did it the old fashion way, which failed and was a mess. I wish I had of used the Schwaben tool. I too like tools and even using them is cool too!...lol

    Now that my system is full, can the Schwaben system be used if there is still air in the system OR if I take the system apart and introduce air? The Schwaben instructions seem to imply it was for dry fills, when coolant system is empty.
    1997 740iL; 5/96 build. Purchased 12/04. Off the road build project 2013 - 2021. back on road 3/2021. Became daily driver (only vehicle) 6/12/2021. Still not completed. Stay tuned as the adventure continues.

  17. #17
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    There should be no need for special tools - I've had seven V8's now and changed the coolant on all of them at some point - if done correctly with a sound, leak-free system it will bleed fine!
    Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i


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  18. #18
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    I am questioning the thermostats off Amazon. Was it a quality part? PO of my car installed Chinese crap water pump marked under "Hamburgtechnic" or something like -- posing as a German brand. I quickly tossed it into trash during my rebuild.
    Current: 2007 Z4 M Coupe (blue/black)
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  19. #19
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    I'm Spechless I changed the water pump and didn't get any better still at 3/4 hot. I bled it, vacuum tested it all showed good... I'm stumpt

  20. #20
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    [QUOTE=Timm;29959257 It is worth saying that if the temperature gauge comes off the centre point - that's bad news as the temperature gauge is buffered and the coolant temperature is probably reaching 120C - 130C[/QUOTE]

    Not the case on my car. It shows always 3/4 while reading 105-110C from instrument panel. Like the centre point is moved on gauge somehow.

  21. #21
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    Frenchi, what is the temperature what the instrument panel shows when you see 3/4 on gauge? Just thinking if you had something similar going on than me where the gauge is not accurate? I know it's a low probability but costs nothing to check. It's Test Nr. 7: http://mr-fix.info/bmw-e38-obc-hidden-menu/

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frenchi View Post
    My guess is as Tim said there's not enough flow of coolant, I was on the highway today at 3.5k at 1--+mph and the temp regulated to the mid point, I picked up a water pump on the fly and will be installing it tonight

    will keep you posted
    Are you absolutely sure your viscous fan is actually doing anything? If you can maintain good temperature at highway speed but you overheat at idle then there is a possibility that the viscous coupling is not locking. With the gauge coming off the centre position the viscous fan should be blowing huge amounts of air through the radiator.
    Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i


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  23. #23
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    I changed my Thermostat, with an OEM one, but its still overheating. Bled it 3 times to the point where im getting a steady stream of coolant running out of the bleeder screw, coolant level when the car is 8h cold is showing where its supposed to be. I dont understand how it could still be overheating.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by georgebest View Post
    Frenchi, what is the temperature what the instrument panel shows when you see 3/4 on gauge? Just thinking if you had something similar going on than me where the gauge is not accurate? I know it's a low probability but costs nothing to check. It's Test Nr. 7: http://mr-fix.info/bmw-e38-obc-hidden-menu/
    I cant tell because my pixels are shot. I dont think we have something similar because im running an e39 m5 cluster, unless you are too :P

  24. #24
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    What Timm said above -- is your fan clutch engaging? If it's original and never been changed, it may have bit the dust and not locking up, thus causing overheating while car is stationary.
    Current: 2007 Z4 M Coupe (blue/black)
    Previous: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black), 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ruskii View Post
    What Timm said above -- is your fan clutch engaging? If it's original and never been changed, it may have bit the dust and not locking up, thus causing overheating while car is stationary.
    What is the safest way of testing it? I saw somewhere a newspaper but that sounds dangerous if the fan is operating.

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