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Thread: 2018 tire thread!

  1. #26
    Join Date
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    1999 328ic , 2002 325xi
    Nothing is more frustrating than a car with too little front grip that understeers badly but a close second is having too much front grip bias. I'll always prefer a car that has a bit of push to one where the pivot point is in the middle of the front axle.

    It really stuck out in my head with my old Cefiro I had in japan. I got the car with 15inch wheels and ran 195/60/15 Kenda Komets (All Season) all the way around. Car pushed and was a bit wonky due to the soft sidewalls but man could i throw it in deep. Pitching in nearly 90* entries consistently, it felt like I had so much angle, it was a challenge to actually spin the car out at higher speeds. I thought for sure the car had to have had at least rack spacers and when I checked the front out it I came to find it was completely factory S-chassis angle. that same weekend I let a guy who had totaled his car at the same event co drive mine and he had a set of 225/45/17 Dunlop Z1 star specs on the front of his sled. He wanted to throw them on the front of my car I said "hell yeah" but upon driving the car with the new stickies up front found that it was now like the final cycle of a washing machine. Drove the car like that for a while and couldn't figure out what happened to make it behave that way. Then it clicked, it was the tires.

    Ever since I've been thinking about it and have set my cars up to have a more rearward grip balance and have only had good results with this idea. It's not talked about enough I think since it seems that a good number people are still stuck on the understeer is the devil train of thought with these massive sticky front tires. If there is anything about car setup I wish I would have understood earlier it it that you should run only enough tire and grip on the front you need to prevent under steer on turn in anything more that that can actually hurt you more than it helps.
    Last edited by Piner; 02-28-2018 at 05:37 PM.

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    San Antonio
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    98 328is
    Quote Originally Posted by Piner View Post
    Nothing is more frustrating than a car with too little front grip that understeers badly but a close second is having too much front grip bias. I'll always prefer a car that has a bit of push to one where the pivot point is in the middle of the front axle.

    It really stuck out in my head with my old Cefiro I had in japan. I got the car with 15inch wheels and ran 195/60/15 Kenda Komets (All Season) all the way around. Car pushed and was a bit wonky due to the soft sidewalls but man could i throw it in deep. Pitching in nearly 90* entries consistently, it felt like I had so much angle, it was a challenge to actually spin the car out at higher speeds. I thought for sure the car had to have had at least rack spacers and when I checked the front out it I came to find it was completely factory S-chassis angle. that same weekend I let a guy who had totaled his car at the same event co drive mine and he had a set of 225/45/17 Dunlop Z1 star specs on the front of his sled. He wanted to throw them on the front of my car I said "hell yeah" but upon driving the car with the new stickies up front found that it was now like the final cycle of a washing machine. Drove the car like that for a while and couldn't figure out what happened to make it behave that way. Then it clicked, it was the tires.

    Ever since I've been thinking about it and have set my cars up to have a more rearward grip balance and have only had good results with this idea. It's not talked about enough I think since it seems that a good number people are still stuck on the understeer is the devil train of thought with these massive sticky front tires. If there is anything about car setup I wish I would have understood earlier it it that you should run only enough tire and grip on the front you need to prevent under steer on turn in anything more that that can actually hurt you more than it helps.
    this makes sense. the front tires will bite. when sideways the fronts are biting and grabbing, not giving, sliding, and kind of washing out. i used to be all about sticky front tires. recently, and i know i bring this up a lot and im starting to get annoyed with it myself, but for the How to Buy a Drift Car video with Chelsea, i showed up with some used 225/40 michilln whatevers that i got off of an Acura. When i drove the track i understeered like crazy and hated it. Then Chelsea took the car and ripped it. never once said anything about understeer.

    i made a post once in the Lone Star Drift fb page i think about running fronts, and the response i got from a lot of people was that they were running Kendas all around, but i think Aaron chimed in and said that the car should drive with the rear tires. Therefore any old tire that has a bit of grip in it would be fine up front
    Last edited by RandomHero27; 03-01-2018 at 08:28 AM.

  3. #28
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    dover
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    Anyone have input on sidewall? part of me wants to run a small sidewall (215/35/18 18x8.5 cr kai) up front just for fender clearance and chassis clearance but I'm not sure on its effect performance wise, or how it responds to tire pressure changes. In general less flex feels good to me for responsiveness.


    IG: dimitriantoniou

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
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    NJ, USA
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    '07 335I 6MT, '01 330i
    Piner, thanks for... Pining in!

    I've given it a lot of thought, as the wide front tires I have lying around are really just wide tires not being used, so it was good to learn about the effects they might have on drifting. I'm going to go ahead and try to keep that balance centered. Oversteer is really just a clutch kick away, after all. I'm stock angle too, so sliding in the front probably helps.
    I've been running pretty sticky tires up front, which did give me tons more control,at first. They're starting to wear down pretty far, so this upcoming clinic I have I'm going to try to focus on feeling that balance, and try to figure out if I feel it would be better to move it from where I have it.

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
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    '07 335I 6MT, '01 330i
    So, Just updating this with a new tire I tried and liked! I tried a set of the fusion UHP A/S's. I was running 215/45/17, and they had EVER so slighty less overall grip than the fp7000's, which was good for the course I happened to be on that day. I also just received a pair of Indy 500's, to use as fronts on my drift car. I accidentally got 225 40 18, instead of 35 sidewalls.

    I also got FP7000's ons ale a few days ago on simpletire, who was having a 10% off everything sale. Ended up being $46.77 a pop, so I get 6 that I don't need yet. I figure it's better to get them cheap while I can!

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
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    38
    My Cars
    2003 325i
    Ran through 4 Ironman Gen2's last weekend and WOW, they have a lot more grip than I expected for a $50 dollar tire.
    Ice cold the grip hard but once you clutch kick they're great. They didn't get greasy or delam or chunk or throw cords for the 1st set we ran down to the bars.
    Our front tires were old and shot and we put the bald set on the front to try it and the car felt much more planted in the front and a lot of the understeer was corrected.
    I have a pair of westlake S07's to try out too. Plan is to run 595rr's up front for next event.

  7. #32
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    Aug 2008
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    Lakeland Florida
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    1999 328ic , 2002 325xi
    Yeah Ironman G2's are a solid option for sure. I've run through a good number of them and they wear down really nicely and have decent grip. Hard to beat for the price.

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    Concord, California
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    127
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    e36 that wont die
    Ive gone through a few Ironman's. Fantastic grip right to the end of the tire. Next tire I'm gunna try out are the westlakes.

  9. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    San Antonio
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    98 328is
    Dan Brocket has been doing cheap tire reviews on his youtube channel. they come sporadically.

    also, there is a facebook group Drift Tire Reviews for added research too.

  10. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Europe
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    330Ci
    Gave a chance to GTRadial Champiro SX2's because ran out of tires. Crazy grip, lasted pretty nice too, but they are more than Kendas or Nankangs, going to try 595rsr front and one set of GTRadials and get one set of Westlakes.

  11. #36
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    Apr 2017
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    So, Update on my FP7000's recommendation. They used to last super long, like 20+ laps. Not that I've got the angle kit, and I'm carrying much more speed through courses, drifting much more aggressively, I'm burnign through them like crazy. East course at pocono, I would kill a set in 5-7 laps. No bueno, that's wearing toooooooo ast for me and Ic an't afford them. I was getting them at 52/per. I'm picking up 8 federal 595ss's, in hopes that they last for me like they seem to last for chrisfix. We were talking all day on Sunday, and he has a hair more power, and a hair more wheelspeed per gear, and his tires were lasting 30-40 laps on the same course at about the same level of drifting. I'm really hoping the 595's last that well for me, as that would mean I could afford drifitng again.

    I've been running my firehawk Indy 500's as fronts. got them for 101 per for 225 40 18, and then my frame rails tore the inside sidewall down to the chords on my first and second events on them. Got new ones that are 215/40-18, and needed one and a half SLR limiters on the left side of the rack, and one limiter on the right. No more rubbing, and the tires performed absolutely wonderfully all day at a two day multiple roadcourse event this past weekend. I HIGHLY recommend these for fronts. wear after 50 or 60 laps is great, they're definitely worn a hair, but not significantly. They happen to be great looking tires too!
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

  12. #37
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    idk where I heard this but i swore I heard that people run 595's backwards and they last longer and grip just as well lol, like I said i just heard that, ive never ran them before. I want to give them a try but I've been super happy with the kenda kr20's that i've been running and at 56 a pop I cant complain

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcfilmwerks View Post
    idk where I heard this but i swore I heard that people run 595's backwards and they last longer and grip just as well lol, like I said i just heard that, ive never ran them before. I want to give them a try but I've been super happy with the kenda kr20's that i've been running and at 56 a pop I cant complain
    How many laps are they lasting you? And are you getting them through BC at that price?
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by awp235 View Post
    How many laps are they lasting you? And are you getting them through BC at that price?
    A pair can usually last me a full day if not more, I drove an event, left them on, went and drove another event and they died partway through the second event only because my alignment went nuts, and no that's through simpletire. Through bc it would probably be even cheaper than that, but im running 205/40/17's not sure what size you would need

  15. #40
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    BC sells Kendas? as in BC coilovers?

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by RandomHero27 View Post
    BC sells Kendas? as in BC coilovers?
    should specify lol, there's a tire shop here in jersey called bc tire that gives drifters good deals on tires. The owner drifts and he brings a whole bunch of stock to the track so if you run out of tire you can just buy more right there

  17. #42
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    Los Angeles
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    my brother's ti
    my brother and I just tested ohtsu fp7000($50 each) and velozza zxv4($60 each). we are comparing these to the usual kenda kr20($70 each) we use. these are 200whp cars with hydro handbrakes and angle kits, tire size 225/45/17.

    both the fp7000 and zxv4 wear very fast and grip is not good throughout. we will not be buying either of these tires again.

    kenda's would last nearly twice as long, an average of about 20 minutes of drifting.

    we are going to try milestar's for the next event. they are about $50 each on amazon.

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by E36M3LX View Post
    my brother and I just tested ohtsu fp7000($50 each) and velozza zxv4($60 each). we are comparing these to the usual kenda kr20($70 each) we use. these are 200whp cars with hydro handbrakes and angle kits, tire size 225/45/17.

    both the fp7000 and zxv4 wear very fast and grip is not good throughout. we will not be buying either of these tires again.

    kenda's would last nearly twice as long, an average of about 20 minutes of drifting.

    we are going to try milestar's for the next event. they are about $50 each on amazon.
    i told my buddy with a 4.6 mustang SN95 about the velozzas. beamteam used to run them. he picked up a set for this last event. he seemed to like them. i got a few laps in on his mustang right after they were mounted and had 0 laps on them. they were good for the few laps i got to put into them on an unfamiliar car. thanks for the feedback. i still may give them a shot.

  19. #44
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    I'll have to try the kendas.

    I drifted a bunch on milestars, because they came on my car, so as soon as the diff was welded, they went up in smoke. Honestly, when they got super hot, they seemed to start to delam easliy and got super greasy.
    I'll be pulling the ss595's through their paces at englishtown though, I'm truly hoping to only go through two sets, max.


    Sorry about the BC Tire confusion- I know MC is local to me, and would understand what I was talking about.
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

  20. #45
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    Tire reviews are so all over the place its crazy. I know a guy here who SWEARS by milestars and won't use anything else. I've personally ran 265/35r18 and 245/40r17 Kendas on 2 different cars and they were 2 completely different tires. the 18s last forever while being ok on grip, the 17s were the slickest tires I've ran and didn't last well, and I would never put them on again. Jeepster wins pro ams on Ecsta ASXs at 32 psi while I run them 18 to feel somewhat confident on them. In my experience NS20s are worthless and self destruct after a few laps, and 595s make minimal smoke on moderate grip, but also don't last well. With all that said the best tire's I've tried were NT05s, but those are $$$$ so I went back to the next best thing, Zestinos.

  21. #46
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    I think things people don't consider is:
    Power levels
    Track temps
    Track surface
    Track length
    Tire age (they have time stamps of production)
    How many heat cycles are on the tires.


    I hate to be a debbie downer, but all of this data is useless outside of hearsay.

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  22. #47
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    I’ve been exclusively running Westlake SA07, smoke like mad and last forever, but a new “track” opened up by me with a really terrible surface and I’m burning through a pair in 4-5 runs. All 3rd gear, one long straight to early entry, hot lapping. (Spirit Peaks Raceway in Toutle, WA) My friend had some Lionhart 503 on his 350z that lasted a good 8-10 laps so I just bought 4 of those to see if I get the same results. I’ll update after I hit ther next event.

    3500lb e46 vert 5.3 big cam high compression ~350whp

  23. #48
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    Jul 2008
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    Falken tires: I assume the FD guys smoke the 615. What should stock power e46 330 select from the Falken menu?
    Stock power, very abrasive surface, historically run a 225 width (up or down 2 sizes is NBD), most concerned with laps/dollar value.
    none

  24. #49
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    I forgot to check back in with an update on those lionharts- last a lot longer but once they heat up, it’s like an oil slick and it’s very sudden, flying off the track mid drift without warning. But again, lower weight and lower power probably won’t have that issue.

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by satakal View Post
    Falken tires: I assume the FD guys smoke the 615. What should stock power e46 330 select from the Falken menu?
    Stock power, very abrasive surface, historically run a 225 width (up or down 2 sizes is NBD), most concerned with laps/dollar value.
    While I was c class, the ohtsu fp7000's were great. For beginning, I highly recommend those on a stock powered car. Once you're getting them really hot, they start to burn quickly, and would last me about 5 laps. Now I'm running federal 595's, only have one event on them but they seem to offer WAY more grip, and last about 11.5-2x as long. Truthfully don't know about falken, sorry!

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Liquidity View Post
    I forgot to check back in with an update on those lionharts- last a lot longer but once they heat up, it’s like an oil slick and it’s very sudden, flying off the track mid drift without warning. But again, lower weight and lower power probably won’t have that issue.
    Good to know, maybe I'll give them a shot if the 595's don't pan out well. I know I'll be cranking pressure int o the 595's because they have so much grip....
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

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