Help on wiring electric fan

[evomel]

ok now I have to correct the mistakes of the past mistakes I paid for the so called professional work- no i will not go back and ask for them to correct - I have to do it myself- I have have had constant fuse blow outs on the ZIONSVILLE electric fan - the fuse either blows or melts- I need to re wire the the thing myself to does anyone know where it should be properly wired to in the ECU box? Yes I will take pic to show the present poor work- right now it is wired so that the fan is on constantly -

[JimLev]

Mel, if the fuse if blowing/melting it could be the wrong amperage and the wire gauge could be too small.
What did they put in?
My fan gets its power from the battery post on top of the valve cover.

[evomel]

Mel, if the fuse if blowing/melting it could be the wrong amperage and the wire gauge could be too small.
What did they put in?
My fan gets its power from the battery post on top of the valve cover.

the wire looks thick - the fuse used was 15 but kept blowing and then melted- I stuck in a 30 which held but again melted - my son yelled at me- so now I removed the fuse he says it needs to be re wired- they wired it to the top of the box- let me take a shot to show you- - now I'm getting a whole bunch of crazy readings like brakes light and side lights are off but not true hope something isn't totally fried- at same time having a bad leak --

[evomel]

here is the mess-

[evomel]

and the many melted fuses

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so Jim I should wire the fan to the Battery post on the valve cover?

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Jim can you shoot me here a pic of yours?

[geargrinder]

I'd love to agree w/ your son, and normally I'm on the don't put a bigger fuse in! camp completley, but its supposed to be a 30A according to ZV website.

http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/a...tic-single.pdf

That blown 30A looks EFFED UP. Something seems dramatically out of order. The look of that splice w/ the electrical tape over it ain't good either.

Basically the idea behind Jim's wiring is to keep the power supply to the relay as big and direct as possible. His setup pix won't help you 100% because he's built his own PWM motor controller in a housing so its an entirely different thing but the basic idea to use the jump-start cable would still work, just try to keep the wires from that to the fuse & relay & fan as short and clean as possible while still being tidy.

[evomel]

holy moly 30A !!! ok well now somehow all this has to be cleaned up and brought back to code- what a mess- I guess I have to call Zionsville up and get a replacement fuse relay and more to do it right -

I'd love to agree w/ your son, and normally I'm on the don't put a bigger fuse in! camp completley, but its supposed to be a 30A according to ZV website.

http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/a...tic-single.pdf

That blown 30A looks EFFED UP. Something seems dramatically out of order. The look of that splice w/ the electrical tape over it ain't good either.

Basically the idea behind Jim's wiring is to keep the power supply to the relay as big and direct as possible. His setup pix won't help you 100% because he's built his own PWM motor controller in a housing so its an entirely different thing but the basic idea to use the jump-start cable would still work, just try to keep the wires from that to the fuse & relay & fan as short and clean as possible while still being tidy.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Holy crap! As bad as that fuse melted, there's gotta be more melted wires somewhere else too.

[evomel]

Holy crap! As bad as that fuse melted, there's gotta be more melted wires somewhere else too.

looked at the whole loom only that wire fuse was the culprit

[geargrinder]

So, the motor is drawing too much current. Ways that could be happening:

- resistance in the crappyass connections splices etc
- too small wires, too long wires
- fan physically dragging or binding so it has to work harder
- short circuits someplace

Pull it apart. See whats what.

[evomel]

I'm hoping my son will help me tackle this project - Mr B tech currently -

So, the motor is drawing too much current. Ways that could be happening:

- resistance in the crappyass connections splices etc
- too small wires, too long wires
- fan physically dragging or binding so it has to work harder
- short circuits someplace

Pull it apart. See whats what.

[JimLev]

That fuse socket has to be toast too.
I ran a heavy gauge wire from the 12 volt jump connection down to a separate 4 fuse terminal block that I mounted low and in front of the oil filter housing. Each fuse feeds different circuits I added......Flex-a-Lite fan, nitrous 1st stage, 2nd stage, AE's, etc.
You could get the parts you need from ZV or some local parts store. You probably need some 10 gauge wire, terminals, a 30 amp fuse holder, fuse(s), and maybe a 40 amp relay.
You must have some electronics parts store on LI where you could get these parts from.

[evomel]

oooo awesome!!!! now that you told me this YES and when my son gets back he can help me with this- so we'll make our own - yes plenty of shops here to buy and make our own- so use what you listed-- ironic you mentioned the NOS- he just made his own direct injection individual port for the LS NOS squirters gonna common it with a plate- you suggest to have the fan on all the time or a switch?

That fuse socket has to be toast too.
I ran a heavy gauge wire from the 12 volt jump connection down to a separate 4 fuse terminal block that I mounted low and in front of the oil filter housing. Each fuse feeds different circuits I added......Flex-a-Lite fan, nitrous 1st stage, 2nd stage, AE's, etc.
You could get the parts you need from ZV or some local parts store. You probably need some 10 gauge wire, terminals, a 30 amp fuse holder, fuse(s), and maybe a 40 amp relay.
You must have some electronics parts store on LI where you could get these parts from.

[philly98540]

Likely bad fuse holder as Jim said. Lots of cheapie fuse holders from China that fail to grip tightly on the fuse prongs. This creates a loose connection on the fuse which heats up and causes the fuse to overheat. I had the same exact issue on my car. I changed to a better fuse holder that I ensured had a tight connection to the fuse prongs and have had no issues since. Change out your fuse holder to a better tighter one and you should be good. Or redo the whole set up as said above. Just ensure the fuse holder fits tight on the fuse prongs.

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This issue wont show up on smaller amperage things, but the fan really sucks some power. Loose fuse holders show their ugly heads for these type applications.

[evomel]

which type of fuse connection did you end up using?I'm shopping right now for a replacement and instead of replacing with the same type maybe I should look for something different?

Likely bad fuse holder as Jim said. Lots of cheapie fuse holders from China that fail to grip tightly on the fuse prongs. This creates a loose connection on the fuse which heats up and causes the fuse to overheat. I had the same exact issue on my car. I changed to a better fuse holder that I ensured had a tight connection to the fuse prongs and have had no issues since. Change out your fuse holder to a better tighter one and you should be good. Or redo the whole set up as said above. Just ensure the fuse holder fits tight on the fuse prongs.

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This issue wont show up on smaller amperage things, but the fan really sucks some power. Loose fuse holders show their ugly heads for these type applications.

[philly98540]

I ended up going to my local auto parts place and bought the couple that they had. I picked the one that really fit tight on the fuse prongs. I forget what brand, maybe bussman or something. Make sure its rated for the amps you need, and check for a tight fit on the fuse. Sucks that a $4 part could cause a fire and destroy your car.

[evomel]

tks for the advise- yes i still have to research in person - I found this at home depot LOL but haveattwood-boat-hardware-14347-6-64_1000.jpg to test the fitting

Extra heavy-duty 30-Amp/12-Gauge in-line fuse holder. For ATO/ATC fuses. Water-resistant.