'01 530, with P0741 converter code....intermittent?

[will308]

I've searched and have seen the various threads on this issue, both here and the E46 forum. My issue is , I get the light/code for the lockup not working and can feel the converter disengage at around 70 mph, but a few days later it's gone and will stay off for a little while. The car now has 150,000 miles and I'm not convinced the converter seal is kaput? What would create this intermittent light/code....a solenoid? I just don't want to replace the converter only to find it was a solenoid or the pressure regulator valve?
Thanks,

[jagerhund]

will308,
I have had this code and the same symptoms for 40K plus miles. The reading I have done over the years has shown many folks chasing down solenoids but ultimately not being able to fix this issue until they did the torque converter rebuild. I am always open to new information.

[will308]

will308,
I have had this code and the same symptoms for 40K plus miles. The reading I have done over the years has shown many folks chasing down solenoids but ultimately not being able to fix this issue until they did the torque converter rebuild. I am always open to new information.

Thanks for the response... I guess we'll just let it go and see....it's behaving right now...thanks,

[jagerhund]

In my estimation the whole tranny repair thing is roll of the dice, I have 171K miles and the car has some age to it but still runs like a champ. The TC repair can be done for around $1K but with my luck the tranny would fail completely 10K miles later. I am putting my money into suspension right now and keeping up with other maintenance.

[will308]

In my estimation the whole tranny repair thing is roll of the dice, I have 171K miles and the car has some age to it but still runs like a champ. The TC repair can be done for around $1K but with my luck the tranny would fail completely 10K miles later. I am putting my money into suspension right now and keeping up with other maintenance.

Same here. As you pointed out, dropping $ 1,000.00 for the converter and ..boom.... the rest of the tranny goes. Good to know yours has made it to 171K...gives me some hope.
I'm also doing a complete front/rear suspension overhaul.

[balidawg]

TCC solenoid perhaps? I’d hook up INPA and watch various EGS realtime parameters as someone drives you around town reproducing the problem. It may expose what’s actually wrong.

I’ve got all the ZF tranny docs on my Google drive if you want them, plenty helpful. PM me for the link.

[blackknight530i]

It's the seal. Mine went at about 75k miles or so and I put a RevMax Stage 2 TC (They have OE replacements as well) and ran it another 100k miles before I finally did my 6-speed manual swap. Transmission was fine and still is, it's just sitting in my storage room collecting dust though. The RevMax TCs come with a Viton seal instead of Buna, much like the Beisan Systems Vanos seals, that won't fail again. All rebuilt ZF TCs have the same old type seal that will fail again, so for the little bit extra, it just makes sense to get one you know you won't have to replace again.

Also, I'll point out that when mine failed, it started out as an intermittent P0741 code that progressively got worse and finally I was driving around in sport mode all the time to prevent TCC lockup as much as I could, but of course, MPGs suffered a lot. When travelling at 80MPH, check your RPMs. If they are up near 3000, your TCC is not locking up. The revs should be around 2600-2700 at that speed.

[will308]

TCC solenoid perhaps? I’d hook up INPA and watch various EGS realtime parameters as someone drives you around town reproducing the problem. It may expose what’s actually wrong.

I’ve got all the ZF tranny docs on my Google drive if you want them, plenty helpful. PM me for the link.

Thanks for the offer....but I'm INPA illiterate... I'm old....lol

[will308]

It's the seal. Mine went at about 75k miles or so and I put a RevMax Stage 2 TC (They have OE replacements as well) and ran it another 100k miles before I finally did my 6-speed manual swap. Transmission was fine and still is, it's just sitting in my storage room collecting dust though. The RevMax TCs come with a Viton seal instead of Buna, much like the Beisan Systems Vanos seals, that won't fail again. All rebuilt ZF TCs have the same old type seal that will fail again, so for the little bit extra, it just makes sense to get one you know you won't have to replace again.

Also, I'll point out that when mine failed, it started out as an intermittent P0741 code that progressively got worse and finally I was driving around in sport mode all the time to prevent TCC lockup as much as I could, but of course, MPGs suffered a lot. When travelling at 80MPH, check your RPMs. If they are up near 3000, your TCC is not locking up. The revs should be around 2600-2700 at that speed.

That's just it...it behaves sometimes for a week and then I can feel the TC disengage. Even thought the SES light is illuminated right now, at 80 my rpm's are around 2600 most of the time. If and when the trans does go, nice to know there's an upgraded T/C option.
Thanks,

[blackknight530i]

That's just it...it behaves sometimes for a week and then I can feel the TC disengage. Even thought the SES light is illuminated right now, at 80 my rpm's are around 2600 most of the time. If and when the trans does go, nice to know there's an upgraded T/C option.
Thanks,

Yeah, you're still at the early stage, but mine was the same way. Took mine to the dealership for a diagnosis and they said the whole trans would need to be replaced. I was like, "no, I'll try doing just the TC and see what happens". Never had a problem with the trans after changing the TC and keeping the fluid changed every 30k miles.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[will308]

Yeah, you're still at the early stage, but mine was the same way. Took mine to the dealership for a diagnosis and they said the whole trans would need to be replaced. I was like, "no, I'll try doing just the TC and see what happens". Never had a problem with the trans after changing the TC and keeping the fluid changed every 30k miles.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Thanks...good to know...

[will308]

Reviving this thread a bit. New issue...trans still intermittently dropping lock up.
Had to take it to emissions test here in Maryland and they failed it because of the toque converter code.. Imagine that. Something that doesn't really affect the emissions coming out of the tail pipe but they're gonna make me fix it or revoke my registration. Tried reasoning with a girl on the phone at the MVA indicating a waiver is in order since it's not related to the engine emissions, but to no avail. All I got was, " we're following the law" .. sounds like something from a 1940's European country where this car was built...

[computiNATEor]

Reviving this thread a bit. New issue...trans still intermittently dropping lock up.
Had to take it to emissions test here in Maryland and they failed it because of the toque converter code.. Imagine that. Something that doesn't really affect the emissions coming out of the tail pipe but they're gonna make me fix it or revoke my registration. Tried reasoning with a girl on the phone at the MVA indicating a waiver is in order since it's not related to the engine emissions, but to no avail. All I got was, " we're following the law" .. sounds like something from a 1940's European country where this car was built...

Clear the codes, drive it around for a while but don't let it get to highway speeds where the TCC will fail. You'll be ok.'

I drove my car like that for 50,000 miles, no issues.

[will308]

Clear the codes, drive it around for a while but don't let it get to highway speeds where the TCC will fail. You'll be ok.'

I drove my car like that for 50,000 miles, no issues.

Thanks, it's worth a try.... noticed the code comes on when I'm travelling at about 40 mph on a back road on my way home.

[jagerhund]

Yes like Compu*** said.

Clear code, tell them it is fixed, drive it in sport mode to shop, have them inspect (engine light shouldn't come on).....unless they take car out on highway as part of test?!

[will308]

Yes like Compu*** said.

Clear code, tell them it is fixed, drive it in sport mode to shop, have them inspect (engine light shouldn't come on).....unless they take car out on highway as part of test?!

I've cleared to code several times and they catch that...they indicate the car is not ready to be tested when they hook up their machine...gonna try clearing it again, driving in sport mode for a bit and see if that does it.. Lotsa stuff to go through for something so silly..

[computiNATEor]

Get yourself a cheap OBD2 to Bluetooth adapter and an app that can tell you if the car will pass inspection. I use “Auto Doctor.”

[charter21p5]

You have to clear all data including freeze frames. Then drive the car at least 4 drive cycles before bringing it back.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RyansBMW]

Download the Torque app and get yourself a cheap OBDII bluetooth reader on amazon. In addition to clearing codes and all kinds of other things, it will tell you when the systems are "ready."

With regards to your TC, I would get it fixed soon. On my 530, I had the same issue as you. Some days it worked fine, other days it wouldnt disengage. Eventually it will fail. One night when I was driving home, it completely failed on me. Car went into limp mode, wouldnt move, trans lost all the oil ( it was all over the back of my car) and who else knows what happened internally to it. Luckily I was a mile from home when it happened.

[geargrinder]

Reviving this thread a bit. New issue...trans still intermittently dropping lock up.
Had to take it to emissions test here in Maryland and they failed it because of the toque converter code.. Imagine that. Something that doesn't really affect the emissions coming out of the tail pipe but they're gonna make me fix it or revoke my registration. Tried reasoning with a girl on the phone at the MVA indicating a waiver is in order since it's not related to the engine emissions, but to no avail. All I got was, " we're following the law" .. sounds like something from a 1940's European country where this car was built...

Yeah. Our state is in this mode now. No logic can prevail over the pedantic pre-programmed answer (rep training "OK dear, don't bother listening to what they say, just always tell them no its the law and hang up"). Pure bureaucracy. Any tiny little "non-factory" thing done to anything in the engine/drivetrain area is "tampering". If you get "flagged" then you can't go to private garage anymore you have to go to a state "MAC" center where they'll go over your car w/ a fine tooth comb and insist everything is factory parts only, or you never get a sticker. California is easier to deal with honestly. According to these jurisdictions, the transmission IS part of the emissions system for the car (making swaps for cars that never came with manuals for instance, inherently 'illegal').

You have to clear all data including freeze frames. Then drive the car at least 4 drive cycles before bringing it back.

Errr OK not sure you know what a 'freeze frame' means, but maybe you mean adaptations.

A little more clarity / detail maybe useful for OP-

Will, you may know this but its not exactly been spelled out and there's implied misunderstanding of the process in some of the posts above...:

• The car needs to have "all emissions monitors set to ready" when they OBD scan it.
• A 'monitor' is really a software program that tests ("completes") according to a set of rules and either returns a value of "ready" or "not-ready", and, if it finds errors, will set codes. In addition to the problem of a 'not ready' the codes themselves are normally an automatic fail in most high-reg / CA-standard states (as is a CEL/SES)
• Resetting codes/adaptations will reset all monitors to not-ready so that's why you can't clear and drive right in.
• Monitors will only run in the first place - let alone set 'ready' - through a relatively complex set of pre-conditions/conditions. Some have to set after a stone-cold-start only. You need to have between 1/4 and 3/4 tank of gas for most cars (in order for evap monitors to even start to complete). They have to complete in order... so for instance the Cat monitor isn't even going to think about running its diagnosis until all the O2 monitors are complete with no errors.
• These pre-conditions can really get you if you're trying to set readiness and have no idea what is required.
• Because of all this normally it requires at least a couple of driving cycles. Because of other conditions - ex: not exceeding a certain RPM or MPH - not just any drive around counts. If you blast past a requirement like that, your current drive won't count and the monitor won't run. For 'normal people in normal conditions with a perfect car' driving around for a few days, they'll luck into the monitors setting. But for some drivers & cars, it can take a long time because you're blindly hoping you meet the conditions. My M3 is a total beyotch about setting cat monitors for instance. I have no idea why but probably I'm not driving at the right RPM or MPH long enough or some stupid little thing like that.
• You can read some tips from BMW on how to complete the drive cycle (below)

Here's the possible issue for you - if the transmission code is interfering with the readiness (like if the DME sees the TC problem and therefore won't complete monitors), and if TC lockup is required for some of the monitors to complete (because the cat and O2 monitors definitely need to run under some cruise conditions), then it might be hard to complete the drive cycle without setting the problem code.

I would second Nate's suggestion - get yourself a wifi or bluetooth (apple or android) OBD dongle so you can check readiness... (Currently I use "OBD Fusion" with an ELM327 Wifi (I'm apple-tarded) dongle. Works great. )

Then try to get readiness to set without triggering the code.

BTW - this might be dumb suggesiton, but you don't mention it - have you tried something as simple as a couple back to back repeated ATF changes? I've been impressed with what a surprising difference fresh fluid can be... If that at least might help your problem to be longer intervals between events then maybe it'll help you set readiness and no code...

https://www.europeantransmissions.co...0Procedure.pdf

[will308]

Thank you all for the great responses. One of the reasons I'm on this site. Probably saved me thousands of dollars over the years.
On a different note..fixed my keyless entry by replacing a 7.5 amp fuse.

Leaning toward getting the TC replaced and having the transmission looked at while it's out.
I really like this car. I guess, if I'm in it for the long haul, I should just bite the bullet and get it done.
Again, thank you all for the input...much appreciated.

[will308]

Happy Ending...well sort of.
I love our cars 'cause they fix themselves!
Driving to work this morning, I looked down to notice the check engine light was out...Hmmm?
Quickly took it to the emissions test station and, wha da ya know...it passed, so I'm good until 2020.
I'm sure the check engine light for the converter will return at some point but for now, it's a win!