Dayton Audio mids and mid woofers.
For the mid woofers same dayton audio 4.5 carbon woofers fit in the front as a drop in replacement. For mids the oem basket needs to be cut off to adapt the dayton audio mid, it needs to be epoxyied in. Sound is very chrisp and clean.
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Stealth install. Well done.
What "thumbs up" really means
Sounds very clean, just waiting for a second pair of carbon mid woofers to arrive to replace footwell speakers, they are being overloaded currently. Its a similar drop in situation there. And the door speakers is similar cut in solution to the rear mids. Decided to retain stock tweets and they are both actually 8ohm and the replacements were 4ohm, plus originals looked ok.
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I would be interested in knowing part numbers for the three different speakers you are using so I can do the same conversion. Looks easy enough. I don't need a high-end stereo system but the car does need some replacement speakers. Thanks,
Alex, can you pitch in with the part numbers, I forgot.
Hi All,
Great photos. Now I know what they "should" look like. I was going down this path only to find a previous owner has butchered the rear speaker boxes to fit 16 cm (6.25 in) Clarion speakers along with ditching the foot well speaker box and shoving more 16 cm (6.25in) Clarion speakers. Another job on the back burner...
Regards,
Philip
Brisbane, Australia.
The other side of the planet, south of the Equator
1969 BMW 2000 Mountain Green - Long gone in the 80's
1976 BMW E12 520i Blue - Long gone in the early 90's
1995 BMW E31 840ci Fjord Grey - Gone Thankfully (2018)
2011 Mercedes W212 E350 Calcite White (The "armchair")
For the kick panel and larger speaker in the rear box:
Dayton Audio CF120-4 4-1/2" Woven Carbon Fiber Midwoofer 4 O
For drop in replacement even the holes matchup for the mid size speaker in the rear box and front door (this is an exact drop in replacement) just a little more money than Daytons. I had a sound engineer friend of mine give both speakers a listen and he said no significant difference between the two:
FaitalPRO 3FE22 3" Neodymium Professional Woofer 4 Ohm
Or if you want to do the mod Dragon did for the mid size speaker in the rear and front door:
Dayton Audio RS75-4 3" Reference Full-Range Driver 4 Ohm
Now here is kicker: the front door tweet is 4 ohms while the rear box tweet is 8 ohms. I used this for drop in replacement for the front tweet:
Dayton Audio ND20FB-4 Rear-Mount 3/4" Soft Dome Neodymium Tw
In the last month or so dragon and I have gone through $1000+ in speakers trial and error for a drop in replacement for a stock system. This has been our findings. Put it to good use
Still no solution for the rear tweet that is 8 ohms
Good news on a side note, my 850ci 6 speed manual sunroof was repaired after playing a "puzzle game" with dragon and new headliner went in. The headliner was more work than anticipated for me.....definitely a two man job and my knee surgery recovery didn't help the situation.
Interesting I thought we had 5 1/4 speakers in the front foot well.
Last edited by killian665; 02-19-2018 at 06:45 PM.
So just completed the last part of the upgrade, footwell speakers. Same as rear, drop in just the screw holes need to be re drilled. All I can say is wow! What an improvement in sound!!
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Those look too small is that the same size they are factory?
The 3 1/2" mid are good actually, just paper. Paper is still one of the best mediums in my opinion BUT they are prone to wear and tear.
I don't know much about the tweets....still trying figure out a rear drop in 8 ohms tweet.
The Mid Base in the kick panel and rear box are ok also but the with Daytons they sound much tighter.
- - - Updated - - -
Ed take a side by side pic of old and new.
Do you have any pictures of the door speaker with the door panel off? I just took mine off and some of the wiring has been cut and I’m totally missing the tweeter it looks like. I don’t know how it’s supoosed to look.
Like this is where my tweeter was. Looks like someone tried to glue it in.
And then this is the door speaker. They’ve cut the wire off and butt connectored it for some reason? The little plug with the cut wires on top of the housing is where they came from I don’t understand what’s happening here. What is this supposed to look like all plugged in and proper? It looks like I’m going to be replacing some wire harness.
You bet I did return the ones I didn’t use.
Good idea on posting the part #s numbers that I tried.
Here are a few that were NOT drop in replacment:
Dayton Audio RS100P-4 4" Reference Paper Midwoofer 4 Ohm
Peerless BC25SC08-04 1" Silk Dome Neodymium Tweeter with Wav
Dayton Audio PS65LP-4 6-1/2" Ultra Efficient Low Profile Ful
Dayton Audio AMTPOD-4 Air Motion Transformer Automotive Tweet
Dayton Audio DMPC-6.8 6.8uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor
Dayton Audio RS125P-4 5" Reference Paper Woofer 4 Ohm
FaitalPRO 4FE32 4" Neodymium Professional Woofer 4 Ohm
Dayton Audio RS150P-4A 6" Reference Paper Woofer 4 Ohm
Dayton Audio LW150-4 6" Low Profile Woofer 4 Ohms
Peerless GBS-135F25AL02-04 5-1/4" Aluminum Cone Woofer 4 Ohm
Dayton Audio ND25TA-4 1" Titanium Dome Neodymium Tweeter
Last edited by alex840; 02-21-2018 at 12:56 AM.
Would you post the part numbers for the speakers that were fitting into Ed's car? I am interested in replacement speakers that will work without any major mods. And, it looks like you guys found some very good subs for the oem speakers.
Here is a photo of the 3/4" tweets someone had suggested using that I installed when I needed to repair the door handle on my car. Took a little work to modify oem mount to fit new speaker that I glued on!
IMG_20171002_201608390.jpg
Thank you!
PS I installed 'replacement' speakers in the driver's door when I repaired the door handle. I used the Kicker CST20 (3/4"/20mm) and they are 4 ohm but I think the oem tweeter in the door was actually an 8 ohm. I also used the FaitalPRO 3FE22
in the door. Would there be a significant difference in sound quality or level if the 4 ohm tweeters are used in back in place of the 8 ohm oem units? Thanks,
Last edited by JDP530; 02-21-2018 at 01:44 PM. Reason: add
I checked the Tweet in the door on 840ci parts car and it was 4 ohm, maybe 850 and 840 and years make a difference? IDK
The reason I went with the speakers that I did was to use the original amp so higher 90+dB was a must and drop in replacment (sensetvity of Speaker) was a must.
Also the frequency ranges were reviewed.
In the parts diagrams it lists a different door tweeter for cars made after 9/1993. So maybe that’s why.
Anybody know a part number for those little copper coin looking things that retain the door tweeter grill to the door card? You stick em on the pegs.
Apparently the E36 Harmon Kardon amplifier bolts right in to the factory location and plugs right in just as easily. After comparing the stock unit with the E36 one this turns out to be true. I was reading they’re capable of driving 2 ohm speakers as well. Do you think this would be a worth while upgrade? I don’t know much about sound systems.
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