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Thread: preparation for first start

  1. #1
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    preparation for first start

    As I am nearing completion of reassembly of my S52 and CX racing kit install, I am thinking about the first start up. What do I need to do for this?

    Obviously fill all fluids, but anything additional required to fill all the empty lines going to the turbo (oil/coolant) or fuel lines?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by DSTX17 View Post
    As I am nearing completion of reassembly of my S52 and CX racing kit install, I am thinking about the first start up. What do I need to do for this?

    Obviously fill all fluids, but anything additional required to fill all the empty lines going to the turbo (oil/coolant) or fuel lines?
    Remove fuel pump relay, start the car to prime the turbo. This isn't a rebuilt S52, just installing turbo setup, correct?
    1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
    CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)

    1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
    Auto/Convertible and staying stock!

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMWManiac View Post
    Remove fuel pump relay, start the car to prime the turbo. This isn't a rebuilt S52, just installing turbo setup, correct?
    he did say reasembled. my thoughts are the same as you said regardless. Disconect fuel and crank till it has oil pressure. Then go for real. I learned a trick the last time i saw erv he used to pack his oil pump with grease for the first start to minimize ammount of time it took to build pressure, then flushed the motor immediatly.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hofmeister View Post
    he did say reasembled. my thoughts are the same as you said regardless. Disconect fuel and crank till it has oil pressure. Then go for real. I learned a trick the last time i saw erv he used to pack his oil pump with grease for the first start to minimize ammount of time it took to build pressure, then flushed the motor immediatly.
    Yes, I have done the same trick with grease, but I did it after building a new motor...figured again, since it wasn't a newly rebuilt motor, not to remove the oil pump just to pack it with grease.
    1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
    CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)

    1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
    Auto/Convertible and staying stock!

  5. #5
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    Remove the plugs while priming, minimize the load on the bearings until there's pressure.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMWManiac View Post
    Remove fuel pump relay, start the car to prime the turbo. This isn't a rebuilt S52, just installing turbo setup, correct?
    Its not rebuilt, just had it apart for a head gasket install and had a valve job done.

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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by DSTX17 View Post
    Its not rebuilt, just had it apart for a head gasket install and had a valve job done.
    Should turn it over by hand for at least 2-3 full rotations to make sure there isn't any valve contact. If you used assembly lube on the camshaft caps (or engine oil if very recent), it should be good to go with just starting it up. I would agree with the above however. Remove the plugs, unplug the fuel pump relay or fuse and crank it over for a bit.

    Really wise idea to replace the oil and filter after the first run.
    "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hova View Post
    Should turn it over by hand for at least 2-3 full rotations to make sure there isn't any valve contact. If you used assembly lube on the camshaft caps (or engine oil if very recent), it should be good to go with just starting it up. I would agree with the above however. Remove the plugs, unplug the fuel pump relay or fuse and crank it over for a bit.

    Really wise idea to replace the oil and filter after the first run.
    I did use assembly lube on the cams. It has been at least a month since its been reassembled. I am definitely planning on starting it and running it for just a few minutes and then changing the oil.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by DSTX17 View Post
    I did use assembly lube on the cams. It has been at least a month since its been reassembled. I am definitely planning on starting it and running it for just a few minutes and then changing the oil.
    as others have mentioned, remove plugs and fuel relay/fuse, turn 4 times by hand to make sure its in time, crank till oil pressure builds, put plugs/relay/fuse back in and start it. change oil after it warms up.

  11. #11
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    I should mention, the last head gasket I picked up a 4 quarts of the cheapest oil I could find at Walmart, usually $2-$3 a quart of 5w30, and poured it down the oil filter housing, and also 2-3 quarts down the oil fill cap with the oil drain open. Whatever left over debris you made during cleaning the block that might have fallen down the oil holes should be flushed out. I figured whatever I could do to give my oil filter a helping hand I would do. Most likely overkill, but it was cheap enough to do for my sanity.
    "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
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