328ifun's, help him not catch his car on fire or drive it off a bridge thread

[chikinhed]

I’ve been using Autometer for years.

The 60 & 80 lb injectors don’t give the best idle. Idle is not bad but not perfect.

[328iFun]

I’ve been using Autometer for years.

The 60 & 80 lb injectors don’t give the best idle. Idle is not bad but not perfect.

I spent quite a bit of time today looking for gauges. Saw and liked the autometers but they were a bit pricey and AEM was outrageous.

I went with Glowshift

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - Fuel

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - Oil

Not sure how bad the idle is supposed to be though? Ya know? I'm fine with an idle that is slightly off as long as it runs great when it needs too and is consistent.

[someguy2800]

You can always have someone flow the injectors if you want to rule that out. I would offer to flow them dynamically for you using the test mode in megasquirt but my wiring is all taken apart.

[328iFun]

Awesome
I didn't know you could do that

Maybe I can find someone to test them

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[pbonsalb]

It’s about $20 each for cleaning and flow testing. Many recommend it even for new injectors. I have sent them out before but never noticed any difference.

[dburt86]

Which why I was thinking of selling the tune and going stand alone so I can control whats happening by myself and not have to depend on someone else.

I see these threads, and this is what im thinking the entire time.

Jesus, between the meth controller, boost controller, and stock DME tune, you could have bought 2 MS3's.

[328iFun]

I see these threads, and this is what im thinking the entire time.

Jesus, between the meth controller, boost controller, and stock DME tune, you could have bought 2 MS3's.

Yeah, you're right. Impatience has gotten the best of me on this one. But yet again I turbo'd and restored an entire E36 at the same time. So I wanted to drive it. DME was the way to go.

It should all be good soon though. I'm running through the entire car one more time and replacing a ton of parts. So we'll see. Cross your fingers.

[328iFun]

Quick Question,

Im trying to connect a guage from the schrader valve on the fuel rail to a fuel pressure sender. Not sure what adapter to get nor can I locate one? Any ideas? Remove pin the valve?

[chikinhed]

Tee into the fuel line down by the fuel filter cover under the car. It will be easier and safer until you decide to build a fuel system for bigger power.

[pbonsalb]

There is a Schrader adapter that fits the OBD2 rail for fuel pressure testers that could be used for a hose to a gauge. I have an in car gauge with electric sender that is probably not very accurate and a gauge on my aftermarket FPR under the hood.

[someguy2800]

I don't want a pressurized fuel hose in the cabin of my car so I will stick with an electrical sender and gauge. If your just wanted to test the fuel pressure at idle and not installing a gauge why can't you just attach a normal fuel pressure tester?

[328iFun]

I don't want a pressurized fuel hose in the cabin of my car so I will stick with an electrical sender and gauge. If your just wanted to test the fuel pressure at idle and not installing a gauge why can't you just attach a normal fuel pressure tester?

No way, no fuel in cabin here either.

I would like to monitor pressure when I'm driving. Probably end up pulling the schrader valve on the fuel rail. So I know pressure at the rail

[pbonsalb]

You would use an electrical sender and then run a wire into the car. You can tee off the line near the stock FPR like chikinhed suggests or use fittings off the rail but I would want a short section of hose to the sender if you do that to isolate to protect from vibration that could break if it is screwed into the rail. For that reason the tee down below is easier.

[chikinhed]

Of just by a fuel pressure test gauge that has the correct fitting to screw on to the s header valve. Run the hose into the car, test and remove once you have your data.

I have my OBC rigged up to read fuel pressure via pressure sensor at the Aeromotive FPR.

[someguy2800]

Once upon a time I wanted to watch fuel pressure while I did some pulls and was broke so I put a tee in the fuel line with a hose going to a water pressure gauge and zip tied it to the wiper. Back in my m20 days.

[328iFun]

Nice

Ive been broke since started this build

I already purchased the fuel gauge with an electrical sender. Just a matter of getting it hooked up. I hate doing electrical

This rally road distribution block is awesome btw....



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[328iFun]

Alright so I was super busy this weekend working on this car (again)

Tore the bumper support any everything off so I could re time and work the car easier (for the the third time).

While I was going through everything I found that one of my spark plugs gaps was actually completely closed, touching the electrode. Which could have been attributing to the misfire. I didn't realized I had the gap so narrow when I regapped the plugs, weird. But the car did idle worse after I reinstalled the plugs.

Installed a ton of new parts and am borrowing a set of timing blocks so I can reinstall valve cover. Feel hopeful this time....

Got a few 'fun' things installed. Rally road dist block and fuel/ oil pres gauges

[jjjjjjj]

Did you ever boost leak test? Many things can leak under pressure I’d suggest at least a 20-25psi test. A tester can be made quite cheap, I’d be happy to share my fabulously crappy yet foolproof design

I’d be weary of cheap fuel injectors, I know there are knockoffs floating around. Personally my 42lb are 15-20 years old and have unknown mileage... nary a problem there.

Have you tried re-gapping your plugs, perhaps not as tight? Also what plugs? Not sure as many folks are one stock compression with pump gas so my need some serious trial and error. I’ve messed around with .018-.025 and finally settled on .020

Are those new coils you swapped?? I’ve found used coils to be extremely finicky and will caused that exact problem for me in the past - breaking up around 4K no matter what. Don’t think overpriced Bavauto coils are the answer.

I’ve also done an adjustable fpr and would gladly share a diagram for the routing however don’t think that’s the prob.

Don’t give up!

[chikinhed]

A spark plug gap of 0.032” will give a good idle but will break up at WOT mid range and up. A gap of 0.020” will give good WOT but won’t idle as smooth.

[328iFun]

Did you ever boost leak test? Many things can leak under pressure I’d suggest at least a 20-25psi test. A tester can be made quite cheap, I’d be happy to share my fabulously crappy yet foolproof design

I’d be weary of cheap fuel injectors, I know there are knockoffs floating around. Personally my 42lb are 15-20 years old and have unknown mileage... nary a problem there.

Have you tried re-gapping your plugs, perhaps not as tight? Also what plugs? Not sure as many folks are one stock compression with pump gas so my need some serious trial and error. I’ve messed around with .018-.025 and finally settled on .020

Are those new coils you swapped?? I’ve found used coils to be extremely finicky and will caused that exact problem for me in the past - breaking up around 4K no matter what. Don’t think overpriced Bavauto coils are the answer.

I’ve also done an adjustable fpr and would gladly share a diagram for the routing however don’t think that’s the prob.

Don’t give up!

Thanks man, I'm trying to push through. Working on it doesn't bother me as much, it's just costing a small fortune. Tuner has been great, has sent me a new MAF, etc... And is pointing me in the right direction.

I made a boost leak tester. Tested at the inlet last night and found a leak around the top of the compressor housing. Shouldn't effect how the car idles though.

The fuel injectors appear to be genuine. The seller I bought them from has his cell number listed in his auctions and was very helpful when I called him and he insisted that they are legit. Whether or not they have been compromised from me removing the intake manifold / fuel rail 30 times, I don't know...

I started with NGK BKR7E at .022 gap. The car ran on great on them at first. When it started missing badly I gapped them to .020, didn't help. I just removed them install stock .035 gapped BKR6E's to rule out any problems associated with plugs. Once I get the car idling correctly again I'll regap them for boost. I did find one plug that had no gap at all. I was exhausted when I was gapping them and must have over looked it: (thats not my exact plug, but similar to gap I had in one of mine)






The coils aren't new but I have about 18 of them and they we're known good before and I've tried swapping them one at time and all that jazz... No change. I'll throw a new set in once I can afford them.

I just ran through the entire car again and really, really took my time and replaced a ton of parts, about $800 worth... Zack said fix the oil leaks and install the new MAF and we would go from there. But he's hopeful we should be good here soon.

Tuner said I shouln't need an FPR on wal 255

Waiting on a few parts and I should be able start her. I'm feeling confident. If comes down to and I have to build a motor I have a spare block, hoping to get some more miles out of this one though.

fingers crossed!

[pbonsalb]

If you drop the plugs down the holes you risk closing the gap depending on how they hit, but I have never had an issue and mine have dropped part of the way many times.

Maybe you could close the gap by timing your cams very wrong?

[jjjjjjj]

Awesome sounds like you have a plan in place, and great that Zack is on board. You have more energy than I do sir! I’ve been up and down with mine quite a bit... yet it’s my daily so push on I must

[JimsR]

Is that your oil drain vent line up near the passenger firewall? Do you ever see the filter get oil soaked? Doing a similar setup on mine but did not know if I needed a catch can.

[328iFun]

If you drop the plugs down the holes you risk closing the gap depending on how they hit, but I have never had an issue and mine have dropped part of the way many times.

Maybe you could close the gap by timing your cams very wrong?

How so? You mean piston to plug contact?

I really don't think my timing was that far off. I was using crappy blocks but the car did run pretty well at one point.

I remember closing one plug way too much and then prying it back open. Probably wasn't paying attention or dropped it like you had mentioned

stranger things have happened though

prior to pulling the plugs and messing with them they looked great, no over mixture / under fueling evidence, etc...

I think the missing while driving I experienced was due the meth injection. I don't think it was misting like its supposed because of the adapter I have in the boot. probably causing the meth to puddle up. Didn't experience the misfire prior to



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Awesome sounds like you have a plan in place, and great that Zack is on board. You have more energy than I do sir! I’ve been up and down with mine quite a bit... yet it’s my daily so push on I must

My goal is to drive my car as a daily. I spend all of my spare time in the garage

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Is that your oil drain vent line up near the passenger firewall? Do you ever see the filter get oil soaked? Doing a similar setup on mine but did not know if I needed a catch can.

Yes, oil does get in the filter. I would run a catch can, wouldn't hurt. I'm going to do one when I get the funds

[someguy2800]

Maybe you could close the gap by timing your cams very wrong?

Cam timing doesn't move the spark plug