Last I checked it was around 13. Will recheck though. Thank you
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These are the injectors I'm running: And I bought them from the same guy. They were $70 cheaper then tuner/other sties. Starting to question them, what do you guys think?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-New-Sieme...item4410640c8f
Tuners website says his are EV6 and the ones I'm running are EV1. Would this cause any problems?
Last edited by 328iFun; 02-16-2018 at 04:02 PM.
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thinking
Siemens Deka 60lb are used in many tunes. I think they are EV1. I have been using them for 9 years. I doubt they are your issue unless some of yours got clogged or they are counterfeit.
MAF can leak. You might want to make sure yours is sealed or welded or epoxied to the pipe.
Someone who knows these cars well, like Butters, could probably sort your car out. You seem to have already found some issues, like HFM wiring, that may still need fixing. When using the Ford style HFM, there is some additional grounding that helps that you have to add to the wiring.
I can remember getting frustrated years ago when my car did not run right. I had some shorting in my engine harness from when I stupidly plugged in a generic Bosch relay that looked identical but it’s terminals did different things than BMWs relays (which also vary in what their terminals do depending on color). And a couple of years ago I put the cam sensor plate on the end of the intake cam in the wrong position and the car would not run and backfired and I went over everything many times. Butters figured it out.
But if you are running the same tune that many others have run without issue and you are having issues, the fault is probably in your install of the tune and tune hardware or your turbo system or motor or wiring, and not in the tune.
Last edited by pbonsalb; 02-16-2018 at 07:06 PM.
If that doesn't fix it and mean no change to how it runs when tugging and pulling and pushing the connector, then I would then take the cold side charge pipe off, put the stock maf on it, put the stock injectors back in, put the stock DME back in and see how it runs in the shop both idling and reving in neutral.
Anyone have crappy idle from spark plug gap not being wide enough?
Mine were gapped to around .021-.022 which sure isn't necessary for the measly 350 tops I'm putting down now...
I dropped the gap a bit more say .020 and it idled worse
I have run as low as 0.018 without issue as have others. I’d rather have stock gap but spark blows out under boost.
And idled fine?
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What's deal with these engine harnesses? This is my second one, just installed it.
Solenoid Valve (running losses aka, FPR connector) and reverse light switch wiring burnt nicely
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Last edited by 328iFun; 02-20-2018 at 07:38 PM.
Yes.
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You should open up your tray on the fire wall and look around inside to make sure there are no issues there. It is possible someone put a standard Bosch relay in one of your fuse box relay spots at some point. Or someone shorted something. I shorted my harness in 2007 messing with fuel pump wiring and relays and patched things up pretty well but still had to change the harness a year later. Once your car is sorted out, you should not have these issues.
Sounds like you may have been in my shoes before pbonsalb. I'm trying to stay optimistic, I just wish I were Millionaire this wouldn't be a problem at all. I'd fly Butters out here and have it fixed in a day or at least know what's wrong.
At least you didn't fry the chassis wiring with that relay. I just bought that harness from 6 66 - if you know him. Cost me almost $200 bucks. The condition he told me it was in wasn't accurate at all and he expected me to ship it back to him with my own money. I don't recommend buying anything from that guy unless your desperate (like I was)
Next plan of attack and hopefully knock this thing out, gonna cost MORE money but I'm hopeful...
1. Pull harness repair and inspect $0
2. Pulled manifold to check all connections (done) $0
3. Replace manifold gaskets, TB gasket, valve cover gasket $40
4. Replace ICV, pretty sure mines toast. I've tried cleaning it. Anyone have one for sale (OBDII)? $20-100
5. Replace Fuel Filter $20
6. Pull fuel pump covering and inspect connections $0
7. Contemplating installing an aftermarket FPR not sure how or which one to go with though. Someone told that having one helped there idled somewhat better adjusted to 44 psi? $150-200?
8. Ordered a new MAF Harness from Zack, waiting for it... $25
9. Replace Coolant Sensor $40
10. Replace Air Temp Sensor $35
11. Install Spark Plugs at stock gap to rule them out for idling (and then decrease the gap for boost) $20
12. Was thinking Bav auto coil packs or similar? $150 (I think)
13. Weld a second O2 bung and run an additional sensor (disconnected) so I can swap it out to bank 1 sensor 1 as need be ( I have an old O2 already ) $0
14. BOV, I really need a decent one if someone has a used one for sale $100? I have a 50MM flange welded
15. Boost leak test
16. Clear adaptations
17. PLEASE RUN CORRECTLY
I need advice on and I can't decide of I should
18. Buy another cheap slot MAF $5020. Replace knock sensors? $50
19. Would love to have another set of 60lbers to drop in to rule those out as well. But I don't want to be out $550-600 on injectors, seeing as I already paid $300 for the set I have $300
21. Baffled Catch Can - and the reason I ask because when the car was NA if I removed the filler the cap the car would misfire and idle roughly? Shouldn't in theory the same thing occur? If I have an open PCV, that wouldn't help right? $50
Total about $860 if I actually bought all of that
Am I missing anything?
Last edited by 328iFun; 02-20-2018 at 09:09 PM.
A harness used to be about $100. These cars are a lot older now than when I started. By now, I have replaced just about everything. I don’t know that you must replace everything. You can test a lot of parts.
I only fly first class, I expect a hot towel every 35 min while on flight, and will want to be pampered by a blonde flight attendant named Monica. Oh, I only fly Qantas.
Seriously tho, you guys give me too much credit. Its my profession to know how to chase down problems with cars, but I don't know it all, no one does.
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1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
do you have a u pull it junk yard down there? ICV valves from a bunch of different bmw's are the same as ours. Bring torx with you if you go searching for one. Newer cars have torx holding them in...or big knife and a pry bar.
if you can't find 1 let me know...I can ship you one down, I think I have a new spare coolant temp sensor as well if your car uses only 1 sensor (the 4 prong style) bought it by mistake.
Hey man I would if I could
Just talked to someone from here who said there going to tow their car to you from like 6 hours away. I thought about it but your like 10hrs from me, thats a bit of a stretch. Unfortunately.
Good mechanics are like gods though. Seriously. And by good, I mean ones that don't nickel and dime you to death and understand the situation your in. At the end of the day I'm more willing to pay a mechanic like that to work on my car then the guy down the road who wants to charge me for every little thing.
I remember my local family mechanic (he closed shop a long time ago, cant remember why though, called him Big Chris) when I was in High School, my school was an hour drive to and from. I drove a beat up old 80's camaro with a 350 V8. It should have never passed inspection but he would always pass it so I could get to school and back, "just watch out for the cops", he would say. I mean bald tires, busted steering column, air bag light on, sway bar links broken, bad control arm, etc... oh but the 350 always pulled, lol (all that matters when your 18). And he would work on it for me for so cheap because he knew I had to get to school. And I look back on stuff like that and if it weren't for him I may not have graduated...
Shout out to the good mechanics like Butters!Its bit more than that and I cannot imagine it being any where near an easy profession - by no means
Thar she is:
Last edited by 328iFun; 02-21-2018 at 06:56 PM.
If you search there are several people with reports of the injectors causing idle miss fire. My buddy is currently experiencing the same thing with a different tuner.
-sold...replaced by turbo e36
I'd love to get my hands on one of these problem cars. Have a bit of a challenge.
Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
Aside from your obvious wiring issues, your fuel pressure should be solid at 51 psi with the vacuum line disconnected. If it’s wavering from 51-49 psi at idle, that almost equates to a 0.5 AFR change from that pressure drop. What is the pressure at at WOT and at max boost? It’s details like this which you have to pay attention to if you want to have a sorted turbo car.
I'll check it when I get the car back together. Ordered everything I need.
Before I removed the manifold I saw 51psi steadily at idle with a vacuum of -18 halfway warm and a flucuation of -18 to -19 hg when fully warm (m52 s52 cams, 415ft above sea level). This was after I adjusted the tb cable to the proper idling rpm. I think it was flucuating because my bov is slightly open at idle and tends open and close. Afrs will stay around 14.7 but has a quiet misfire. And then systematically will misfire more abruptly and afrs jump to 15.1 and then will go back to 14.7 or so with a quiet mis. Unplugging the o2 would make the idle smooth with the mis subdued but still present
After I drove it recently it misses terrible so I'm assuming I made the problem more pronounced?
I don't have in car fuel pressure gauge but I'm sure they make electric gauges that connect to the Schrader valve and can be ran to the cabin? If I can find one I'll go ahead and order it as well.
And I might as well do an oil gauge while I'm at it. After fuel/oil I should be good on gauges
Any experiences with this oil distribution block ?
https://rallyroad.net/products/oil-g...ribution-block
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Last edited by 328iFun; 02-23-2018 at 06:45 AM.
That oil block will be better than reading oil pressure from the Vanos banjo bolt. The Vanos banjo bolt will give you oil pressure fluctuations every time the Vanos actuates.
I am not the fountain of knowldege like many here, but I remember a while ago chasing a really bad idle and misses in our fsae car and it ended being bad injectors. A completely different and much simpler set up, but similar symptoms to yours if my memory is serving me correctly.
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I appreciate the input man! From anyone here really
Your the second person to tell me that now. And it would sense since awhile back I swapped all stock stuff back on the car and it idled completely fine, injectors, dme, maf. However, that's not the case now. Runs like crap either way, worse with stock stuff. But I can't say that mystock maf / pink tops are in the best condition that there may not be a vacuum leak somewhere.
I did get the Injectors off ebay, $70 cheaper than the tuners site. They were advertised as brand new... Don't know. Really don't want to be out -$530 on injectors...
If I have to buy new injectors I might as well go e85.
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