328ifun's, help him not catch his car on fire or drive it off a bridge thread

[328iFun]

Starting to feel bad for asking for everyone's help here... Doesn't seem to end. Drove the car today for a good while (instead of the typical driving it up the road and back home just for a quick smile), anyway...

Car has always had a slight mis at idle when warm, when o2 starts pulling fuel and the DME adjusts to Stoich, 14.7. AFRS will jump up to 15.1 and misfire or stumble the warmer the car got

My solution for this^ was to unplug the O2, more fuel at idle made it so the car didn't mis but I could still tell it was there, just not as apparent. I was fine with that. (I've tried 4 different m50 manifolds, plugged off all taps, and have zero vacuum / boost leaks)

With the above in mind I took the car for a nice drive, for awhile this time maybe 30+ miles.

- AFRS Looked Great, 11's steadily
- 7 PSI, Base tune, 7 psi spring, EBC Overboost protection set to about 6.0, highest peak boost hit was like 11 psi
- Running AEM Meth, working great

Everything looked good under boost so I decided to go WOT in third and fourth gear. Car started breaking up really bad at 4,500 RPMS - 5,000 RPMS so I let off and slowed down. I went WOT again in 3rd gear, not as bad but still breaking up. Pulled over to a slow roll of about 25mph and the cars breaking up without boost at cruise. Restart the car try to go WOT again and it still breaks up badly and persists.

Pulled the car into my garage contacted my tuner and was told to check:

1. Plugs - Regapped all plugs to around 22
2. Fuel - I have about 49-50 PSI idle steadily
3. Vacuum Leaks - I boost leak tested again and plugged off all taps, no leaks.

I also checked on my own:
4. Coil packs, swapped all packs
5. I also swapped out the MAF
6.Car has a new camshaft, crankshaft, O2, etc, etc...

At this point I'm at a complete and utter loss as to why this happening. And really have no idea what direction to go in...

[pbonsalb]

Maybe you are running too much water/meth for the colder weather. Turn it off completely and drive again. If it drives fine, dial back the flow. If that does not help enough, bring the flow in later. You are running very low boost so you should not need much and you need less in the cold.

[Kevin325i]

Have you checked the 12v jumper harness for the crankshaft position sensor?

[328iFun]

Maybe you are running too much water/meth for the colder weather. Turn it off completely and drive again. If it drives fine, dial back the flow. If that does not help enough, bring the flow in later. You are running very low boost so you should not need much and you need less in the cold.

I tried that I set the start point like 20 so it wouldn't turn on, same. It was like 75 degrees here today, which why I took it out in the first place. Took the top off and everything. I know 75 isn't really that hot either though. Intake temps were about 77-78

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Have you checked the 12v jumper harness for the crankshaft position sensor?

Do you mean the extension harness? I replaced the ENTIRE engine harness awhile back as well with a known good one. I didn't see any problems with it when I installed. This was about 5 or so months ago. No circuit codes either

[328iFun]

Meth -

Also had it set correctly per manual - 7 PSI = start point at about a little less than 2 psi and max point about 7.5-8 (considering creep)

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And the car misses with the O2 unplugged as well now..

[budgetbmw3]

Are you able to log/check to make sure all of the sensors are providing consistent/correct data (crank, cam, temperature sensors)?

[328iFun]

Are you able to log/check to make sure all of the sensors are providing consistent/correct data (crank, cam, temperature sensors)?

What software do you use to check? Not even sure what I'd be looking for.This whole situation is annoying. The MAF harness if you've barely move it or touch the wires to the connector the car stalls. This is the second harness I've installed and they both do the same thing, cheap.

Starting to think there maybe be something internal going on but then again I swapped back to stock DME, injectors, MAF last time this happened and it idled beautifully. So it can't be compression, compression doesn't care what DME you're running... And there's zero smoke

Would like to swap injectors but can't afford to keep dropping money into this thing. Frustration > enjoyment

[328iFun]

I'm seriously considering going standalone eventually

[budgetbmw3]

Have you tried romraider? Or is it not supported? Someone in the tuning forum should know, I'm in an e46 and have used romraider and test-o

[someguy2800]

The MAF harness if you've barely move it or touch the wires to the connector the car stalls. This is the second harness I've installed and they both do the same thing, cheap.

That sure sounds like the problem to me.

[hsvturbo]

Starting to think there maybe be something internal going on but then again I swapped back to stock DME, injectors, MAF last time this happened and it idled beautifully. So it can't be compression, compression doesn't care what DME you're running... And there's zero smoke

Would like to swap injectors but can't afford to keep dropping money into this thing. Frustration > enjoyment

so this happened before? And swapping back to stock the problem went away? If so, then you have narrowed down the problem.

i would be consider running the stock DME stuff with the WG Spring removed under power to ensure all other sensors are working properly, as long as AFRs are in check.

[pbonsalb]

Your fuel pressure should be 43-44 at about 20 inches of vacuum. It should be 51-52 at 0 boost 0 vacuum. I doubt this is your problem though.

Not sure converting to a standalone will sort your car out for you. A good stock ECU tune on a sorted out car works fine.

Nothing works well on a car that is not sorted out.

[jakeE36325]

This is a really similar issue to what I've been dealing with. I spent so many hours trying to troubleshoot it without success and have barely touched the car in the past few months.

[328iFun]

That sure sounds like the problem to me.

You are absolutely right it is a problem but its the harness that came with the Tune and there's really not much I can do about it. I've tried 2 already quality isn't the greatest.

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so this happened before? And swapping back to stock the problem went away? If so, then you have narrowed down the problem.

i would be consider running the stock DME stuff with the WG Spring removed under power to ensure all other sensors are working properly, as long as AFRs are in check.

Yes, Its doing the same thing as last time but it was a bit worse before. I swapped all stock hardware/software back in the car idled perfectly. I didn't drive though. Its a pain to swap it all back over. I would have to resolder the old MAF connect back in as well.

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Your fuel pressure should be 43-44 at about 20 inches of vacuum. It should be 51-52 at 0 boost 0 vacuum. I doubt this is your problem though.

Not sure converting to a standalone will sort your car out for you. A good stock ECU tune on a sorted out car works fine.

Nothing works well on a car that is not sorted out.

I don't think I have seen 20 hg at idle. I usually see a fluctuation between 19-18 when the car is full warm and about 49-51 psi at idle - 500 ft above seal level

I know nothing about tuning but just the MAF harness and quality has me annoyed beyond end. Tuner has been great about sending me replacement stuff but its just getting so damn frustrating at this point. I can't troubleshoot the MAF because the car dies if its unplugged. Which is the way the tune was setup

I've literally did everything pretty much text book for an E36 Turbo build. All hardware is new, etc etc...

[328iFun]

This is a really similar issue to what I've been dealing with. I spent so many hours trying to troubleshoot it without success and have barely touched the car in the past few months.

I feel your pain. You invest sooo much money into something no matter what you do doesn't work right sucks

I'm about to the point of parting the car out again because every time I get to where I can actually start fixing the car up and getting it ready for inspection it starts to run like complete crap again.

Unfortunately, I wont make back anywhere near what I spent on this thing and in order for me to troubleshoot requires swapping out components I just don't have the money for at this point or really don't feel spending money on

My thought process awhile back was that I was too far in financially to stop so I kept going...

[someguy2800]

You are absolutely right it is a problem but its the harness that came with the Tune and there's really not much I can do about it. I've tried 2 already quality isn't the greatest.

Your going to have to do something about it. If the car stumbles and stall every time you touch or move the connector imagine what is happening going down the road over bumps and dips and the motor vibrating and moving around in the chassis against the mounts. Take it apart and fix it, your not locked into what other people will sell you. If the connector is junk solder the wires to the pins and pot it with epoxy.

[328iFun]

Your going to have to do something about it. If the car stumbles and stall every time you touch or move the connector imagine what is happening going down the road over bumps and dips and the motor vibrating and moving around in the chassis against the mounts. Take it apart and fix it, your not locked into what other people will sell you. If the connector is junk solder the wires to the pins and pot it with epoxy.

I thought about doing that but I really shouldn't have too. $1500 for software, a $20 Maf, and a $5 harness. The fact the MAF connector is working crappy makes me question other things... And I start asking myself is it worth it? Which why I was thinking of selling the tune and going stand alone so I can control whats happening by myself and not have to depend on someone else.

If I solder the harness directly to the MAF, I won't be able to swap them out unless I solder some generic connectors further down the wiring...

I may look into it a bit more when I get home. Ill post a video up of what its doing later.

I'm so irritated.... I may go to the ABC store tonight

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Theres the MAF and Harness. If you touch the little rubber boots that lead into the connector from the wiring the entire car stalls out. Remember awhile back? I had the problem with boost blowing the connector completely off!?

[bmw328m52]

Sometimes all it takes is a little alcohol to calm down and think straight. I'm also in VA and would be willing to stop by to lend a hand.

[328iFun]

What about a weak alternator guys?

Not supplying enough power to the coils? I did notice at one point if I rolled the windows down and then kept pressing the button with them down it would cause the car to misfire a bit?

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Sometimes all it takes is a little alcohol to calm down and think straight. I'm also in VA and would be willing to stop by to lend a hand.

That would be awesome. I think a second set of eyes would be great... My mind is not where it should be PM ME

[someguy2800]

What about a weak alternator guys?

Not supplying enough power to the coils? I did notice at one point if I rolled the windows down and then kept pressing the button with them down it would cause the car to misfire a bit?

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That would be awesome. I think a second set of eyes would be great... My mind is not where it should be PM ME

If the battery was that dead that it can't fire the coils the car would never start. Fix the maf

[328iFun]

If the battery was that dead that it can't fire the coils the car would never start. Fix the maf

Lol, yeah my logic tends to go out the window (like last time) searching for the problem

Ill rig the MAF and report back...

[M3poseur]

What about a weak alternator guys?

Not supplying enough power to the coils? I did notice at one point if I rolled the windows down and then kept pressing the button with them down it would cause the car to misfire a bit?

Bad alternator voltage regulator can cause weird random knock sensor codes.

[someguy2800]

Lol, yeah my logic tends to go out the window (like last time) searching for the problem

Ill rig the MAF and report back...

I don't know if thats the source of all your problems but it sure isn't going to help anything. Its possible that the problem is not the connector, it could be a loose connection inside that is loosing contact when the pins are moved. I don't know whats in there but it surely should not change how the car runs just by touching it.

[328iFun]

Bad alternator voltage regulator can cause weird random knock sensor codes.

Alternator should be good if it supplies 12v+ at the terminal under the hood correct?

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I don't know if thats the source of all your problems but it sure isn't going to help anything. Its possible that the problem is not the connector, it could be a loose connection inside that is loosing contact when the pins are moved. I don't know whats in there but it surely should not change how the car runs just by touching it.

I agree,

After the MAF is fixed where would you start?

[jakermac]

Alternator should be good if it supplies 12v+ at the terminal under the hood correct?


I agree,

After the MAF is fixed where would you start?

Alternator should be supplying low to mid 13s at idle and not going above 14.4 at 2,500-3,000.