Ill pull the acoustic cover and give it a listen. Both of the little returns are clicking over by the oil filter/hydraulic reservoir.
2001 | DINAN 7 Sport | S62 Swapped 6-Speed
DINAN Springs & Exhaust | 750 Brakes | M-Pars | Monsoons | NBT Nav/Radio
Dual Pane Glass | Black & Sand Int.
2001 | 750iL | AlpineWeiss III
@scotthduke on Instagram
2001 | DINAN 7 Sport | S62 Swapped 6-Speed
DINAN Springs & Exhaust | 750 Brakes | M-Pars | Monsoons | NBT Nav/Radio
Dual Pane Glass | Black & Sand Int.
2001 | 750iL | AlpineWeiss III
@scotthduke on Instagram
Swapped coils for fun, because mine were made by Bremi 4.29.15. No luck with the fire. I pulled both crank sensors and had them separated, but my helper got them mixed up. They were filthy. So I cleaned them with contact cleaner spray and reinstalled. Still only firing on passenger side, facing car.
Debating on trying the crank sensors off dads car.
2001 | DINAN 7 Sport | S62 Swapped 6-Speed
DINAN Springs & Exhaust | 750 Brakes | M-Pars | Monsoons | NBT Nav/Radio
Dual Pane Glass | Black & Sand Int.
2001 | 750iL | AlpineWeiss III
@scotthduke on Instagram
That's my thinking as well. I swapped the crank sensors one more time in case the 50/50 chance that I'd reinstalled them the same way. No change.
Coils & wires are new/Bremi.
Is there a way to replace the faulty DME? Or is this when the scenario goes to find donor V12 & source DME's lock cylinder, ignition switch, EWS & keys and so on?
ews 3.3 code 204, 39,108
DME 1.jpgDME1.1.jpgEWS.jpg
Last edited by 740ilDuke; 02-18-2018 at 09:44 PM. Reason: information update
2001 | DINAN 7 Sport | S62 Swapped 6-Speed
DINAN Springs & Exhaust | 750 Brakes | M-Pars | Monsoons | NBT Nav/Radio
Dual Pane Glass | Black & Sand Int.
2001 | 750iL | AlpineWeiss III
@scotthduke on Instagram
I see you do indeed have DIS working and reading DME I, are you able to read DME II with it?
Yeah, I can choose which bank to look at if that's what you mean. The EWS codes are coming from 7-12. I will go out and connect now and verify my findings.
Being one of the DME's was on the back seat when I bought it, I think that's the issue. It has been "worked on" apparently because it has some numbers on it added by another party. It is however the sequential DME that came in the car with the VIN stamped on it.
I wonder if the DME that controls bank 2 (7-12) has lost sync and will not allow that side to fire...if that's possible. I've tried to sync the EWS and seem to have issues doing so. However - the car starts every time.
Back in a few!
2001 | DINAN 7 Sport | S62 Swapped 6-Speed
DINAN Springs & Exhaust | 750 Brakes | M-Pars | Monsoons | NBT Nav/Radio
Dual Pane Glass | Black & Sand Int.
2001 | 750iL | AlpineWeiss III
@scotthduke on Instagram
On the E32, if only one MAF is connected it will cut power to the disconnected bank's injectors. If both are disconnected it will cut off fuel completely, check if this trick works on the M73.
Last edited by XAlt; 02-19-2018 at 01:43 PM.
Well, after another boxing round, failed programming attempts, EWS miscommunication errors and some texting (Thanks PrplCty!) - I decided to take it back to basics. I'd recalled that after swapping DME's the car didn't want to run. So, I did that again - I swapped it. Viola - bank 2 came ALIVE (7-12). Because it sat for over a year, as told by the seller, I think it only ran cyl 1-6 during its final rides - so for 2 years based on what I've pieced together. The DME that was on the back seat was good for the garbage, that's what I've come to.
The un-tampered with factory DME (VIN label on it) would start the car on either harness. It would run bank 2 (7-12) great - but a show a pegged temp needle and nothing else (tach) would work. I could swap that same DME to bank 1, or 1-6 and it would run that bank fine, with instrumentation working (this was how it had been connected all along) - minus the temp. So, for fun I tried to start the car with the spray painted/seviced DME and it would not start the car or run either bank.
Next step: I've sourced a DME with the identical hardware code as my working/VIN matched DME. I'll be sending my DME's, EWS and key to DUDMD so that he may work his wizardry. I'm a tech savvy guy, but you learn by doing and I've never delved that deep - so Im shipping my bits off tomorrow, East to West coast.
I feel confident that my torque bank error and EWS codes will vanish...after all - if theres not a working DME -or a faulty one they have nothing to communicate with.
Happily the coils, wires and plugs are new Bremi's (done by the tech that was trying to solve this issue..who kept it 14 months). Ive got some less intense things to do in the interim, like CCVs on the back of the plenums, upper windscreen gasket and the driver's side seat control panel. Thats my afternoon tomorrow..then the Dinan will start getting torn apart door panel at a time for the Monsoons. No head unit there yet, so that payoff will come later.
As soon as my parts have made the 6000 mile cross country trip, I'll report back my findings to the land of V12 Keepers.
Thank you all, hopefully this thread is nearing the end. :-))))))
2001 | DINAN 7 Sport | S62 Swapped 6-Speed
DINAN Springs & Exhaust | 750 Brakes | M-Pars | Monsoons | NBT Nav/Radio
Dual Pane Glass | Black & Sand Int.
2001 | 750iL | AlpineWeiss III
@scotthduke on Instagram
So, the car is now running on 12 ZYL. The only code I keep getting so far is the Signal Loss from the MAF on Bank 1 -Zyl 1-6, or passenger side US. So Im trying to figure out which connector(s) on the DME to focus on. One DME has BLACK plugs the other has GRAY. So, if I can at least find out which color goes to which bank, thats a starting place.
The other issue is the temp gauge inside does not register. The cluster test makes it move, but noting otherwise. The engine is running at 86 C or about 186 F viewable after cracking the cluster. Being that we have two points that measure temp (under expansion tank and on the thermostat itself) , I was curious if one feeds the cluster's physical gauge or how that works.
To get it running on 12, one DME was replaced using a donor and cloning it from my good DME. With one DME unplugged, IIRC the temp gauge is pegged.
Finally, after filling the car up the first time in 2 years, the following morning the cabin smelled like gas - still does.
- checked all the injectors and lines under the hood, bone dry
- checked under the back seat - nothing there
- I did replace the fuel filter, so I will have a second look since it is located under the passenger seat
-I guess the other place to look is filler neck by removing rear tire and rear wheel well
Thanks for any helps, tips and suggestions.
2001 | DINAN 7 Sport | S62 Swapped 6-Speed
DINAN Springs & Exhaust | 750 Brakes | M-Pars | Monsoons | NBT Nav/Radio
Dual Pane Glass | Black & Sand Int.
2001 | 750iL | AlpineWeiss III
@scotthduke on Instagram
Bank 1 MAF (located on the driver's side) pins:
Ground to a ground splice in the engine harness that eventually terminates at a passenger side shock tower ground nut.
Power from the second fuse in the tan DME fuse box
2 Signal lines to DME I (the one with black plugs) pins 9 and 23 of the middle (52-pin) plug.
Most common E38 fuel leak is where the fuel lines come out of the passenger side firewall into the engine bay. The 750 has a few more lines to the rails more susceptible to leaks too. All of those would usually only smell when running however.
Good info. I'd read that Bank 2 is drivers side (US) and Bank 1 is passenger which is confusing me a little bit. I know exactly where the ground cables are, beside the e-box.
I'll have to revisit the panel as far as the "tan DME fuse box" goes.
DME 1 / Black plugs - goes to the driver side according to this, correct?
Gas Smell - I was about to pull the rear tire and wheel well, but the car has security nuts on
it. So that'll have to wait.
Excited to try to narrow this MAF issue down at least for now. It literally kills the car if its at idle. Hoefully I wont have to buy a harness, but BMW does sell them for a cool grand.
Attached a couple pics for fun. Previously I could not see the cylinder readouts.IMG_3167.jpgIMG_3190.jpg
2001 | DINAN 7 Sport | S62 Swapped 6-Speed
DINAN Springs & Exhaust | 750 Brakes | M-Pars | Monsoons | NBT Nav/Radio
Dual Pane Glass | Black & Sand Int.
2001 | 750iL | AlpineWeiss III
@scotthduke on Instagram
Bank 1 of cylinders is on the passenger side, yes. The MAF for that bank of cylinders is located on the driver's side of the car.
2001 | DINAN 7 Sport | S62 Swapped 6-Speed
DINAN Springs & Exhaust | 750 Brakes | M-Pars | Monsoons | NBT Nav/Radio
Dual Pane Glass | Black & Sand Int.
2001 | 750iL | AlpineWeiss III
@scotthduke on Instagram
It's because of the design of the intake manifold, this pic explains itself.
6db790cbc1614f3b55a869d1b958d393.jpg
2001 | DINAN 7 Sport | S62 Swapped 6-Speed
DINAN Springs & Exhaust | 750 Brakes | M-Pars | Monsoons | NBT Nav/Radio
Dual Pane Glass | Black & Sand Int.
2001 | 750iL | AlpineWeiss III
@scotthduke on Instagram
I had a problem like this just the other day slow acceleration.. I posted my fix on the e38 group but you can see if it works for you. My problem was because of a dead battery
Car starts now but runs like shit-->> (low idle barely running dme forcing 600 rpm idle real idle 680ish)… Tried to move it NO power low rpm can just make it to 40 mph flooring it… Looking over the car check the MAF unplug passenger side nothing happens unplug driver side it dies, ok easy enough I have new ones at home… swap same thing it’s not reading bank 1 and running off bank 2 readings only….. mmmm soo after an hour of looking and reading … there is something call bank mixture adaption…
So things I noted is both the DME in the car are the same. Part# Code# and the serial# was one character off and both are labeled DME1. So I’m guess both the DMEs read as one. And the adaptions is finding out which dme is on which back as far at TB, injectors, spark and O2…
Form what I get off of TIS, this job can be forced by Gt1/SSS. If you don’t have that this is what it calls for:
1. Coolant >85C
2. Evap check done
3. vacuum check done
4. And TB sync complete
5. No CEL codes
After all the setting are met:
1. Turn the car off
2. Turn the car back on
3. Wait 5 minute to all checks 1-4 are done again you will know once the evap stops clicking
4. 30s mid rpm load of 3500
5. 15s low rpm load of 1500
6. Wait 5 minutes again
7. Turn the car off and leave car in position 2
Now you will have all power back and car will idle perfect again
27
Cc
73
8c
62
50
Last edited by redlinebanging; 03-19-2018 at 09:31 AM.
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