Head gasket 1989 325ix

[HurtCobain]

I’m in the process of doing a HG job has anyone did it on a 325 ix no guides on the Ix or books no love for them I guess :/ I’m on the final step I believe I took of all radiators hoses air box fan clutch etc IMG_0375.JPGIMG_0377.JPG


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[Ceekers]

What would you like to know..??First off get yourself a Bentley Manual..the PDF is also available online for free. Doesn't matter which M20 engine you decide on doing the heads are all the same.

there is quite a bit of dissembly before you get to removing the head. the process is too lengthy to type out.
if you've never tackled this job before it could be overwhelming first time around. Best get a buddy over who has.

Brieflymain things needing removal:

intake manifold
exhaust manifolds
front engine components -timing belt cover belts waterpump pulley, crank pulley

New Parts Needed: New timing belt, tensioner, waterpump, headgasket set, Head bolts reverse torx. not the hex kind.

Get the head resurfaced by a machine shop and check for valve guide clearance and wear. check rockers for wear
Replace the valve seals forsure.

there a starter for you.




I've done several Head replacements on the M20 motor.

[richardodn]

The only significant differences between the i and the iX motors are all in the oil pan and the front driveline that mounts to it. For future reference, the iX does not use an oil pan gasket. Instead it's sealer only.

[HurtCobain]

The only significant differences between the i and the iX motors are all in the oil pan and the front driveline that mounts to it. For future reference, the iX does not use an oil pan gasket. Instead it's sealer only.

Thanks dude means a lot, I believe I’m almost done the HG job I removed all hoses, air box, fan, radiator and alternator. The exhaust manifold is a real pain in the neck hardest part of the job the bolts connected on the bottom are difficult I got 10/12 out successfully the bottom of the exhaust manifold that hold on the exhaust together is difficult as well, any tips to reach these hard to reach spots?IMG_0382.JPG


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[95BMWIC]

Thanks dude means a lot, I believe I’m almost done the HG job I removed all hoses, air box, fan, radiator and alternator. The exhaust manifold is a real pain in the neck hardest part of the job the bolts connected on the bottom are difficult I got 10/12 out successfully the bottom of the exhaust manifold that hold on the exhaust together is difficult as well, any tips to reach these hard to reach spots?IMG_0382.JPG


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Most people use a swivel socket from underneath. I used an impact wrench to loosen nuts. Looks like a lot of rust so let them soak for a good long while before horsing on them.

Here is some pics of my head gasket removal. https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...and-a-Heineken

[Jeffnhiscars]

If the manifolds aren't off you're not "almost done". Find a friend

[HurtCobain]

Most people use a swivel socket from underneath. I used an impact wrench to loosen nuts. Looks like a lot of rust so let them soak for a good long while before horsing on them.

Here is some pics of my head gasket removal. https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...and-a-Heineken

Thanks for your insight dude


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[HurtCobain]

If the manifolds aren't off you're not "almost done". Find a friend

Lol your right I thought I was near the end I appreciate everyone’s help on this forum


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[ChuckDizzle]

I use a generous amount of PB Blaster for the hardware on the exhaust manifold, I let it soak in overnight.

Have you made it to the infamous "bitch tube" underneath the intake manifold yet? When reinstalling, you'll notice that the spring on the bottom is ziptied in the photo. This makes it much easier to reinstall when you're putting it back together. Once it is seated, clip the zipties off. Aside from that, everything else should be the reverse of the removal process.

[HurtCobain]

I use a generous amount of PB Blaster for the hardware on the exhaust manifold, I let it soak in overnight.

Have you made it to the infamous "bitch tube" underneath the intake manifold yet? When reinstalling, you'll notice that the spring on the bottom is ziptied in the photo. This makes it much easier to reinstall when you're putting it back together. Once it is seated, clip the zipties off. Aside from that, everything else should be the reverse of the removal process.

No I haven’t got to the the bitch tube yet, I just started with the job again today been super busy with work, I removed all the the bolts on the left exhaust manifold I finally got the 3 stubborn ones on the bottom of the exhaust that I couldn’t get off before they were pretty beat to crap how do I remove the left exhaust manifold now? IMG_0398.JPGIMG_0399.JPG


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[hotdish]

how do I remove the left exhaust manifold now?

Disconnect the exhaust pipe hangers so you have enough free movement to pull them off the manifold studs.

[HurtCobain]

Disconnect the exhaust pipe hangers so you have enough free movement to pull them off the manifold studs.

Thanks dude can anyone chime in on getting the engine TDC I heard the IX’s need the harmonic balancer on in order to properly line them up and last question is can the line up be slightly off I noticed if I line up the bottom portion perfectly (near the crank) it throws off the top IMG_0410.JPGIMG_0414.JPG


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[95BMWIC]

Thanks dude can anyone chime in on getting the engine TDC I heard the IX’s need the harmonic balancer on in order to properly line them up and last question is can the line up be slightly off I noticed if I line up the bottom portion perfectly (near the crank) it throws off the top

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IX and I are almost identical - I have both.


Its hard to tell from the pics - obviously looking at the lines from different angles will cause the perception they are lined up or not. I squatted down and looked straight on from the line of the hood for the top mark (tilt your head) - I would put a straight edge (a thin metal ruler) across the belt the allowed me to set the timing mark on the camshaft perfectly straight to guide my view. I then stood up and looked straight down for the bottom line. Also know that if you are a tooth off you would be able to tell as you are off a good 1/8 of an inch.

Camshaft timing pic.jpg

and below

Crank TDC .jpg

If you are off - reset the bottom by turning the crank (before taking off the belt) then take off the belt and move the Camshaft sprocket back to TDC. Don't crank it all around - just move it backwards pass the point (counterclockwise) - then clockwise to where it is exact. Also move everything clockwise (crank and cam) when moving. Re install belt and then take two full turns of the crank and make sure everything has stayed lined up.

[HurtCobain]

IX and I are almost identical - I have both.


Its hard to tell from the pics - obviously looking at the lines from different angles will cause the perception they are lined up or not. I squatted down and looked straight on from the line of the hood for the top mark (tilt your head) - I would put a straight edge (a thin metal ruler) across the belt the allowed me to set the timing mark on the camshaft perfectly straight to guide my view. I then stood up and looked straight down for the bottom line. Also know that if you are a tooth off you would be able to tell as you are off a good 1/8 of an inch.

Camshaft timing pic.jpg

and below

Crank TDC .jpg

If you are off - reset the bottom by turning the crank (before taking off the belt) then take off the belt and move the Camshaft sprocket back to TDC. Don't crank it all around - just move it backwards pass the point (counterclockwise) - then clockwise to where it is exact. Also move everything clockwise (crank and cam) when moving. Re install belt and then take two full turns of the crank and make sure everything has stayed lined up.

So I broke the tensioner bolt for the timing belt and now I have to drill it out I’ll leave a shop to do that because I don’t want to mess it up can I continue the HG job skipping belt replacing my engine is still at TDC


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[95BMWIC]

So I broke the tensioner bolt for the timing belt and now I have to drill it out I’ll leave a shop to do that because I don’t want to mess it up can I continue the HG job skipping belt replacing my engine is still at TDC


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I'm unclear if you are assembling or disassembling at this point? I'm assuming you are putting everything back together and you tightened the pull too tight and broke the bolt on the pulley. If this is not correct (and you are in the process of disassembly) - you can continue to take the Head off without issue - just don't move the crank.

If you are in the process of assembly - I would stop at this point - take inventory and note where you are at. I would mark everything (cam and crank position) and make doubly sure the shop does not move the crank or the cam. They will have to take the belt off (most likely) to access the broken bolt.

Once they return it to you - update your post with pics of progress and we can walk you through the next steps.

[HurtCobain]

I'm unclear if you are assembling or disassembling at this point? I'm assuming you are putting everything back together and you tightened the pull too tight and broke the bolt on the pulley. If this is not correct (and you are in the process of disassembly) - you can continue to take the Head off without issue - just don't move the crank.

If you are in the process of assembly - I would stop at this point - take inventory and note where you are at. I would mark everything (cam and crank position) and make doubly sure the shop does not move the crank or the cam. They will have to take the belt off (most likely) to access the broken bolt.

Once they return it to you - update your post with pics of progress and we can walk you through the next steps.

I’m am disassembling the head gasket, I thought I had to remove the timing belt in order to disassemble the head I haven’t got to any part of the process of putting ANYTHING back together all taking it part, thank you so much for your patience with all my silly noob questions it’s my first time working around a older car and this community and people like you on the form make this place awesome thank you!


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[95BMWIC]

I’m am disassembling the head gasket, I thought I had to remove the timing belt in order to disassemble the head I haven’t got to any part of the process of putting ANYTHING back together all taking it part, thank you so much for your patience with all my silly noob questions it’s my first time working around a older car and this community and people like you on the form make this place awesome thank you!


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Ok - You do have to take the belt off to remove the head. Once the head is off you can rotate the crank if needed to clean pistons - and check for scoring / cross hatch - just make sure you bring #1 cylinder back to Top Dead Center (TDC). You can see a photo of mine at TDC in the link post #7.

Remember to untorque the head in the sequence according to the Bentley.

On the plus side - the machine shop you bring the head to - most likely can get the bolt out also - if you can get the car to them.

[HurtCobain]

So

[HurtCobain]

Ok - You do have to take the belt off to remove the head. Once the head is off you can rotate the crank if needed to clean pistons - and check for scoring / cross hatch - just make sure you bring #1 cylinder back to Top Dead Center (TDC). You can see a photo of mine at TDC in the link post #7.

Remember to untorque the head in the sequence according to the Bentley.

On the plus side - the machine shop you bring the head to - most likely can get the bolt out also - if you can get the car to them.

How do I remove this from the rail I successfully got out the bolt I snapped and aligned engine TDC, and lastly once I removed head bolts can I pull it of the bottom block? IMG_0768.JPGIMG_0787.JPG


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[95BMWIC]

The rail is attached by two nuts (or bolts - cant recall) right underneath the intake. However - you should be able to maneuver the plug off the rail - I believe it is just a a slot in which the electrical plug is seated.

You should be able to pull the head bolts now - loosen them in this order:

11.jpg

I left the intake on, the fuel rail on and the thermostat on when I pulled the head - Ask someone to help you lift, as they can get a bit "sticky" trying to lift up and out. I used a soft mallet to "tap" around the head.

[Ceekers]

There is a plastic ring underneath the plug holding it to the rail which you spin off to release the harness. As for the removing the head once the bolts are loose? As mentioned you will need to get a pry bar or large screwdriver under the lip of the head and pry up to loosen it from the head gasket. It's not heavy but in that position is is quite awkward lifting it out. Easier to remove the intake manifold to do it. but if you kept the intake on better to get another person to help lift. Also cover your fenders with a couple of moving blankets in case you are alone doing this and can't hold onto the head at least you can rest it on the fender before taking it away.

[HurtCobain]

The rail is attached by two nuts (or bolts - cant recall) right underneath the intake. However - you should be able to maneuver the plug off the rail - I believe it is just a a slot in which the electrical plug is seated.

You should be able to pull the head bolts now - loosen them in this order:

11.jpg

I left the intake on, the fuel rail on and the thermostat on when I pulled the head - Ask someone to help you lift, as they can get a bit "sticky" trying to lift up and out. I used a soft mallet to "tap" around the head.

Awesome I’m ready to pull the HG the only step I have left is to remove the fuel pressure regulator hose, I was fishing around and followed the lines with my fingers and got to the clamps it seems like a hex head clamp fasteners it’s not a flat head setup at all, what do I need to loosen it any insight what tool or socket? I need to remove it I can’t see it from my angle I’m working at.


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[HurtCobain]

There is a plastic ring underneath the plug holding it to the rail which you spin off to release the harness. As for the removing the head once the bolts are loose? As mentioned you will need to get a pry bar or large screwdriver under the lip of the head and pry up to loosen it from the head gasket. It's not heavy but in that position is is quite awkward lifting it out. Easier to remove the intake manifold to do it. but if you kept the intake on better to get another person to help lift. Also cover your fenders with a couple of moving blankets in case you are alone doing this and can't hold onto the head at least you can rest it on the fender before taking it away.

Thank you, that damn plastic ring wasn’t trying to spin off lol I eventually got it off.


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[Ceekers]

Get a set of claming surgical cissors or a niddle nose wise grip and pinch off the hose at the regulator or just below. This is a good time to see if the hose is brittle or not. If so replace it. you will lose some fuel out of the line and also when you tip the fuel rail. So try not to tip it. IT most likely has either a black snap off head or it be replaced already and a 5mm/6mm hex socket should work to remove the clamp.

[HurtCobain]

Head is finally off IMG_0829.JPG
https://youtu.be/WsjKXhnjqkY
https://youtu.be/2qlhohe0Pn4


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