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Thread: Needing some help: Z3M S52 will not start

  1. #1
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    Needing some help: Z3M S52 will not start

    So here is some background on the issue.

    I was coming off an on ramp and got the car in boost. With doing so, blew off the silicon elbow to the manifold. Not able to pull over, I limped the car home. Ran EXTREMELY rich because of the amount of air getting in. The drive home amounted to about 1.5 miles. I got home and parked the car to investigate. Saw what happened and connected everything back. Got in to crank the car and it would just crank and not "turn over". Here is a video of exactly what is happening:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zotp...ature=youtu.be

    When I got home I check the codes and there was:

    P1188
    P1189
    P0121

    I ended up getting a new elbow and will be deleting ASC. I had a buddy come over to help that has INPA. The codes were cleared and they never came back again trying to crank the car. I am getting spark and fuel pump is working. There also seems to be pressure on the fuel rail. It does NOT seem that the injectors are firing.

    I'm at a lose and about to pull my hair out. I also took a look at the ignition switch:



    Any help is appreciated.

  2. #2
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    I'd pull out the injectors, rail and all, to see if they're actually firing. Your buddy might be able to fire them individually, to see if they spray, or dribble.


  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
    I'd pull out the injectors, rail and all, to see if they're actually firing. Your buddy might be able to fire them individually, to see if they spray, or dribble.

    Thanks Randy. Was hoping you would respond. I think i'll be buying the connector and INPA software as well. We did test each injector but not when removed.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
    I'd pull out the injectors, rail and all, to see if they're actually firing. Your buddy might be able to fire them individually, to see if they spray, or dribble.
    Randy, pulled the rail and this is what I got:



    Seems I have fuel, i have spark but i have no boom. One thing to mention is that the last couple of times I got out of the car, I got "shocked". Wasn't much but maybe worth mentioning. I checked the grounds on the passenger strut tower and also the valve cover, those were tight and clean.

  5. #5
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    Long shot, since it sounds like your engine never even starts up, but do you have air?

    I once popped an intercooler boot off my Mini Cooper S.
    Replaced it and the car would not start. Well, it would start and die immediately (not quite like yours).
    Turns out the car was forcefully closing the throttle plate (it was bending under the strain put on it).

    No error codes, nothing, but it refused to run for more than a fraction of a second.

    Anyway, long (veery long) story short: I finally hypothesized that the massive post throttle body air leak had caused it to adjust its idle so much that the throttle plate was closed all the way...and it could not start up for long enough to fix it...no air...

    So I caused a smaller post throttle body air leak (pulled a decent sized vacuum hose) to give it air to breathe...what do you know, the engine started up...then I slowly closed the leak...and everything was copacetic.

    Worth a shot.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceWarne View Post
    Long shot, since it sounds like your engine never even starts up, but do you have air?

    I once popped an intercooler boot off my Mini Cooper S.
    Replaced it and the car would not start. Well, it would start and die immediately (not quite like yours).
    Turns out the car was forcefully closing the throttle plate (it was bending under the strain put on it).

    No error codes, nothing, but it refused to run for more than a fraction of a second.

    Anyway, long (veery long) story short: I finally hypothesized that the massive post throttle body air leak had caused it to adjust its idle so much that the throttle plate was closed all the way...and it could not start up for long enough to fix it...no air...

    So I caused a smaller post throttle body air leak (pulled a decent sized vacuum hose) to give it air to breathe...what do you know, the engine started up...then I slowly closed the leak...and everything was copacetic.

    Worth a shot.
    I'll give it a shot, won't hurt. I did reset adaptations so I would think it would potentially solve that but who knows.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  7. #7
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    Have you pulled and replaced the plugs? Have you checked the engine ground straps? How have you confirmed you're getting spark?

  8. #8
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    From the video it sounds like you have some compression. That plus fuel and spark should fire up.

    At the moment, only thing I can think of is crankshaft position sensor, and to me that feels like a longshot considering how it happened.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I would use INPA to look at rpm, MAF signal/load while cranking.

    Clear adaptations while there. It may have learned a ton of wrong settings in your limp drive.

    - - - Updated - - -

    What sort of FI setup is in this? And who tuned it?
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Bingley View Post
    Have you pulled and replaced the plugs? Have you checked the engine ground straps? How have you confirmed you're getting spark?
    I'll pull plugs today. The engine ground strap is below the car, correct? It is confirmed that I do have spark.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by 328 Power 04 View Post
    From the video it sounds like you have some compression. That plus fuel and spark should fire up.

    At the moment, only thing I can think of is crankshaft position sensor, and to me that feels like a longshot considering how it happened.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I would use INPA to look at rpm, MAF signal/load while cranking.

    Clear adaptations while there. It may have learned a ton of wrong settings in your limp drive.

    - - - Updated - - -

    What sort of FI setup is in this? And who tuned it?
    It is a draw through system with a GT30R. Frank Smith tuned the car but I am looking at an RK tune for a couple of reasons.

  10. #10
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    Maybe running rich washed the oil out of the piston rings. Happened to me once after forgetting to reconnect coil pack harness after replacing my VANOS.

    Would have very low compression, enough to not turn over. I fixed mine by adding a drop of oil to the highest part (towards the drivers side of engine) of the piston rings through the spark plug gap via a special tool I developed (hose taped to a funnel)

  11. #11
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    Ah OK. If you still have access to inpa, clear adaptations, because there is one fuel adaptation parameter in MS41 that applies globally, to all fuel maps.
    Feels doubtful, but it's easy to try.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by BimmerBreaker View Post
    Maybe running rich washed the oil out of the piston rings. Happened to me once after forgetting to reconnect coil pack harness after replacing my VANOS.

    Would have very low compression, enough to not turn over. I fixed mine by adding a drop of oil to the highest part (towards the drivers side of engine) of the piston rings through the spark plug gap via a special tool I developed (hose taped to a funnel)
    Thanks Graham. This is also very interesting. I pulled the plugs and here is what they look like:


  13. #13
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    Plugs look rich, kind of hard to tell without seeing the color of the center insulator but they look to have a lot of soot. Either too much fuel in the mixture or a weak spark. Also number 2 has a problem in that it may not be firing at all, note how the all the threads are black. They don't look oily so it suggest poorly burned or partially burned fuel. If I were to guess I'd say your adaptations (air/fuel) mixture are messed up. Clear them, put new plugs in and see what happens.

  14. #14
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    picked up inpa and many other programs plus the connector to have when needed.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by CMM3 View Post
    Plugs look rich, kind of hard to tell without seeing the color of the center insulator but they look to have a lot of soot. Either too much fuel in the mixture or a weak spark. Also number 2 has a problem in that it may not be firing at all, note how the all the threads are black. They don't look oily so it suggest poorly burned or partially burned fuel. If I were to guess I'd say your adaptations (air/fuel) mixture are messed up. Clear them, put new plugs in and see what happens.
    Seems the plugs worked:

    https://flic.kr/p/23iEqwb

    Need to get it to learn these adaptations.

  16. #16
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    Nice day for a cruise to make sure everything's good


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