Hey guys I've been really quiet busy lately, so I haven't been posting much.
So I recently completed a lot of work on my 540 list is long...
To make this easier, new front control arms/bearings. Now shocks all four
New pads and rotors x4
New braided hoses from ecs x6
New brake fluid
Rear subframe bushings done
New inner and outer steering links
Pulls right under braking, pulled right beforehand as well.... Could this be an abs valve issue, good fluid out all four callipers
I'll give a full progress update after I install the rest of my shit
Thanks for the help fellas
Are you sure this isn't a suspension issue? I see all you replaced but maybe something moving under braking.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
Alignment? I'm sure you've thought of that though
Did you overhaul the calipers with grease on the pins and pad contacts? Is it possible a caliper piston is sticking?
Alignment would cause a pull with or without braking.
Calipers felt so/so going back in when I did the pads but it felt more like a lot of fluid to push less like sticky piston/seals.
I cleaned the brackets and leveled them , but I didn't take the time to weld the somewhat minor divots that pads always wear, I simply leveled and smoothed. I always clean and grease the slides with brake silicone brake lube and pad contacts with copper anti-seize.
Okay to be fair I left out the fact that I have about 40-50Degrees of free play on center between the gearbox, pitman and column... I have not yet investigated whats allowing the free play in the wheel I mostly assumed it was the gearbox and haven't tried adjusting it a small amount yet. As a result I've been putting off the alignment, but I have it pretty damn straight right now. I need to get it aligned... especially with brand new tires on.s
My concern regarding the ABS is that my old e39 had a frozen valve that caused the exact same results minus good fluid flow to that caliper.
Also I have an abs code for abs relay failure. I haven't tested the relay but I assume its dead, when I got the car it was intermittent as far as ABS light goes, now its constant on.
If those degrees are accurate, I'd recommend you stop driving the car immediately except into a garage. Rather lose brakes than steering. Sounds like it's more than the steerbox. From top to bottom...
- steering wheel splines
- steering column collar nut (above the pedals)
- steering column u-joint and splines
- steerbox wormshaft lash (neither adjustable nor a common problem on these)
- steerbox ball slop (inherent to steerboxes, not common to be severe)
- steerbox sectorshaft lash (the main adjustment on the top)
- pitman arm splines. I recently cured some bad slop just by tightening the pitman arm pinch bolt.
- center link pitman arm joint (should pivot, rotate, but not move)
- center link idler arm joint (should rotate only, not pivot or move)
- idler arm bushing
- tierods
- upper balljoints
- lower balljoints
- and more!
I've never encountered a frozen ABS valve, but that seems plausible to cause low flow and no pressure, and result in pulling to one side. My understanding (uncertain) is that the valves open to relieve pressure. Depending on how it froze, it could bleed off enough to weaken that brake corner but not enough to be noticable while bleeding.
Last edited by moroza; 02-16-2018 at 04:40 PM.
Honestly the steering is pretty good, I'm not uncomfortable with it, ever since I bought it there is a lot of free play, but the steering isn't sloppy it's crisp.
I'll try to adjust the lash, right to tighten correct? 1/6th of a turn at a time ? And I'll check the pitman bolt. I didn't detect any playing the idler or pitman when I checked with my crowbar/ hands
- - - Updated - - -
It mostly just looks like I'm driving in a movie from the 60s
One of these things is not like the other. Acceptable free play is something like 2 degrees, not 40.
http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Mainte...eering_box.htm
Update more like 15 degrees of free play and maybe 5+ degrees of slack before the wheels turn. Got an alignment, helped a lot with the pull, but under hard breaking it locks up one tire first
Yeah I was gonna try to bleed a third time, it's just the same feelings prior to the brake/suspension work. Also I can't cycle my abs because of the relay/possible valve
Last edited by ross1; 02-14-2018 at 01:34 PM.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
The fluid looked ok coming out not too bad, definitely old though. I guess when I get a chance I'll try ordering an abs relay and bleeding. They're just kinda expensive
Bookmarks