A piece of the trans sheared off by the shift linkage. Had a guy that does Aluminium welding said he could try to weld it but it could crack off again. Am I stuck putting in a new/used trans?
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6E55CC13-EE78-4218-837F-6AA8B9A41D7C.jpg
Picture is sideways but you can see where that ear piece cracked off.
Last edited by troy19bimmer; 02-07-2018 at 04:20 PM.
Isn't that the part that holds the shifter carrier? Did the shifter stop working/fall out?
A solid mount shifter (CAE/AKG/RTD/Bimmerworld/etc) doesn't require a carrier, so that broken piece wouldn't matter.
Options:
1) Weld it back on. Have to drop the trans, might break off. $?
2) Replace transmission. Have to drop it (duh). $$
3) Solid mount shifter. RACECAR. $$$.
1993 E36 325is
2003 E46 325iT
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If you have the broken off piece, a good welder should be able to clean that up and accomplish a repair that is sufficiently strong.
Alternatively, the casting can only be manufactured from a few alloys, so again a good welder could potentially build that area up as a repair. Then drill the mating hole through from existing hole.
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Last edited by bluptgm3; 02-07-2018 at 05:01 PM.
Yes thats the the location where the shifter carrier mounts up to. What does the solid mount shifter look like. Don’t know much about them. Trans is halfway to coming out but don’t want to put a used one in and have it fail at some point or even right away after installing it. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
A good welder can weld an ear back on and it will be as strong as the original part.
I’m thinking the solid mount shifter will be easier and they aren’t much more than a short shifter and rebuild kit. And then I don’t have to drop the trans out. Thinking I might go that route. But do you really have to replace the engine mounts with solid mounts. I am replacing the trans mounts already with solid ones.
Personally id go with a solid short shifter to avoid it breaking again if welded. I dont doubt the weld(er) but would suck if you shift a little hard and end up breaking it again lol.
A solid shifter doesnt use the carrier at all, instead it mounts to the trans tunnel.
Weld it
Ordering the solid short shifter today and solid trans mounts as well. Thanks for the input
Dumb move. You will hate the solid trans mounts. Been there, done that, like many others.
Ordering the solid short shifter today and solid trans mounts as well. Found a company called cliq tuning that makes the solid short shifters and are adjustable as far as the throw goes. Nice price at under $200 as well.
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Well I need new trans mounts regardless. So what would you recommend? Is it really necessary to use solid mounts with a solid short shifter?
I’d go with something like UUC black and enforcer cups or use E21 mounts and drill the crossmember for the slightly larger bolts. Rogue are also OK. Go stiffer than 80a to 85a and you will feel the vibration.
Bolted shifters obviously work best when the engine and trans move as little as possible. Some run them with softer mounts. A friend had one and removed it since it was not great on the street and he did not want hard mounts. It’s race car stuff, but try it if you want and let us know how it works. If it was me, I’d pull the trans and get it welded. More work than a bolt on solution but a better result for a street car.
Yeh I feel ya. I will post back in a few weeks with the results. This will not be driven daily as I have several other cars to drive. Just sort a weekend car to pull out of the garage once in a while and take a nice little cruise
I've had that repair done, a good aluminum welder can do it and it will be plenty strong. Try to find someone who's had experience welding motorcycle stuff or airplane gearbox casings.
Even for a mostly autoX car I couldn't stand poly mounts, let alone solid mounts.
You'll hate solid mounts for the streets. Weld up the ear. Not difficult to remove the trans to do it though time consuming. I have solid rubber Group N motor mounts and they create some vibration (street car). I tolerate it but wouldn't want solid mounts at all. Do a job once and do it right.
Make sure you inspect your motor mounts as they actually contribute more to the engine torquing around than trans mounts. Both trans and engine mounts need to be "matched" or you can start breaking things elsewhere.
Good to know. I decided to go with Polyurethane Transmission Mount Set - Street 70a from ECS. I guess I should do the motor mounts right away too at the sound of it. Already have a few grand stuck into this thing. Whats a few more hundred.
At least inspect the motor mounts. When they are shot they leak fluid. The same mounts are used on E46M3 and E92M3 and are made by Corteco and cost $55 each when I bought some. You can spend much more if you want but probably don’t need fancier mounts.
I did inspect them and there are no leaks from them at this time.
You can replace them later if they are not torn or leaking. While I have many high performance parts on my 99M3, at some point they have a cumulative effect that reduces comfort and reliability. New stock parts for the suspension are always better than 20 year old ones. Choose mods wisely so your money goes further. There is much you don’t need that you probably think you need. I have overmodded my 99M3. I have much more selectively modded my 08M3. I still like the 99 because it is stupid fast but if I had to choose only one I would keep the 08 because it is more comfortable and still reasonably quick,
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