Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 41

Thread: Should I repair, sell as-is, or part out?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    1,197
    My Cars
    00 528/5 & 02 530i Sport

    Should I repair, sell as-is, or part out?

    The car in question is my 2002 530i. 171k on the chassis, 100k on the new (used) motor.

    I believe I've diagnosed what may be a blown head gasket (and potentially a cracked head)... Here are the details:
    • Drove for an hour one day last month, no complications/problems
    • Parked the car for over a week, and started it up on a cold night
    • Tons of white smoke, loss of power, felt like the car would die


    So -- here are my options:
    • Test to see if car has blown head gasket (pressurizing the system and observing through spark plug holes)
    • Sell car as-is and take the loss (if I feel like I no-longer want to deal with it)
    • Part the car out -- has nice interior, and facelift parts, etc.


    I'm about 4000-5000 into the car right now. Obviously repairing the head gasket would have costs in itself (especially if the head is cracked and needs to be replaced).

    If in my shoes, what would you do? Keeping the car long term is still an option.

    Thoughts?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Springfield, VA
    Posts
    1,006
    My Cars
    2001 750iL DD74441
    I would test it out first. You can also do the “exhaust gas in coolant test” that may be slightly easier. After sitting it may just have collected water in various areas (under brake booster) that is giving that appearance...

    The questions I always have with parting it out: how are you going to ship everything (motor -well potentially pieces of, transmission, body panels, etc)? Do you have the space and time to dedicate to that?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,154
    My Cars
    99 528i/5, 05 ZHP conv
    + 1 on testing . A compression test at a minimum, and a leak-down test (better)
    If it fails, I would buy a parts car with a running, known good 330i engine (tested as above) and do an engine swap.

    I have just done an engine swap and an in-car head gasket (in that order- on the engine I swapped in) on my '00 528i.
    Swapping in a good used engine saves time, money (if you can part the rest of the car) and has a higher chance of success.

    If you take your current engine out after a failed compression test, you might be able to save it. You didn't mention an overheat so you might be able to do a HG with a minimum of machinist work. An M54B30 engine still has value.
    Last edited by effduration; 02-06-2018 at 07:24 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    1,197
    My Cars
    00 528/5 & 02 530i Sport
    Quote Originally Posted by TheAngryBear View Post
    I would test it out first. You can also do the “exhaust gas in coolant test” that may be slightly easier. After sitting it may just have collected water in various areas (under brake booster) that is giving that appearance...

    The questions I always have with parting it out: how are you going to ship everything (motor -well potentially pieces of, transmission, body panels, etc)? Do you have the space and time to dedicate to that?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Yeah -- the parting out piece is daunting. I do have the space, but don't know if I have the time to dedicate to it. Another thought is putting some of those parts on my 528i (interior, headlights, tails as it's a prefacelift), but I'd like to recoup some costs if at all possible.

    It's interesting that you mention the brake booster... Around the same time, my brake pedal has been acting unusual. Extreme amounts of air and travel (more than usual). It almost sounds like a whoopee cushion... I don't know if it's a busted brake master cylinder, or if it has anything to do w/ my brake booster... thoughts?

    Quote Originally Posted by effduration View Post
    + 1 on testing . A compression test at a minimum, and a leak-down test (better)
    If it fails, I would buy a parts car with a running, known good 330i engine (tested as above) and do an engine swap.

    I have just done an engine swap and an in-car head gasket (in that order- on the engine I swapped in) on my '00 528i.
    Swapping in a good used engine saves time, money (if you can part the rest of the car) and has a higher chance of success.

    If you take your current engine out after a failed compression test, you might be able to save it. You didn't mention an overheat so you might be able to do a HG with a minimum of machinist work. An M54B30 engine still has value.
    Thanks. Don't know if I have the time (or desire) to do an engine swap. I actually bought this car w/ rod knock and had my indy put in a new known-good motor from a 330. This was back in April. As you mentioned, there was no overheating... What else could cause a cracked head or blown HG?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Cheshire, CT
    Posts
    1,406
    My Cars
    1998 BMW 528i / 5
    +2. you really need to confirm the head gasket issue, if it is one. These M54 engines sometimes display head gasket issues when in fact it is just the CVV system acting up. There was an article written up by 'The Hack Mechanic' on this very thing in Roundel a few years ago.

    Test it first to confirm before you shoot it.
    Ed CT
    1998 528i
    5-Speed
    Aspen Silver
    Aubergine Leather

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Springfield, VA
    Posts
    1,006
    My Cars
    2001 750iL DD74441
    Brake booster can be flooded if junk blocks the drain holes under the cabin air filter. Check it out and see. Weird issues with brakes can arise as well. Hard or soft pedals etc.

    Definitely test and see what is going on then make a decision. The more I think on this, the more I am inclined to think condensation is causing the smoke. Especially if it rained while sitting. The the cold night made the smoke “worse”.

    I do live by Peter’s Law (Murphy was an optimist) but generally try to think positive vice worst case. Prove it is worst case, don’t assume.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    1,197
    My Cars
    00 528/5 & 02 530i Sport
    Quote Originally Posted by Ed CT View Post
    +2. you really need to confirm the head gasket issue, if it is one. These M54 engines sometimes display head gasket issues when in fact it is just the CVV system acting up. There was an article written up by 'The Hack Mechanic' on this very thing in Roundel a few years ago.

    Test it first to confirm before you shoot it.
    I would be really happy to know if it was just the CVV... but would that affect drivability? What is the preferred method to test in this case?

    Quote Originally Posted by TheAngryBear View Post
    Brake booster can be flooded if junk blocks the drain holes under the cabin air filter. Check it out and see. Weird issues with brakes can arise as well. Hard or soft pedals etc.

    Definitely test and see what is going on then make a decision. The more I think on this, the more I am inclined to think condensation is causing the smoke. Especially if it rained while sitting. The the cold night made the smoke “worse”.

    I do live by Peter’s Law (Murphy was an optimist) but generally try to think positive vice worst case. Prove it is worst case, don’t assume.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Encouraging words I guess haha. I will give it a look and report what I see... I don't know what would explain the whoopee cushion sound though. I'll see if I can post a video. Sounds like the brake master cylinder seals are blown.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Cheshire, CT
    Posts
    1,406
    My Cars
    1998 BMW 528i / 5
    Quote Originally Posted by JPR10 View Post
    I would be really happy to know if it was just the CVV... but would that affect drivability? What is the preferred method to test in this case?
    .
    Yes, a bad CVV system could be sending oil into the intake manifold, instead of crankcase fumes sans any oil that it should be separating. Thus the smoke from the exhaust. You can do a cylinder pressure test or as AngryBear says, do a coolant test for exhaust fumes in the expansion tank - this may get you some info on the head gasket issue. Or, a quick check (IIRC) on the CVV is to remove the oil filler cap while running the engine and check for excessive suction by covering the oil filler port with a piece of paper - it should be a slight suction. Too much vacuum there indicates a clogged oil separator (CVValve). Others may (please) chime in if I have this test method wrong.
    Ed CT
    1998 528i
    5-Speed
    Aspen Silver
    Aubergine Leather

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    NW suburban Chicago
    Posts
    16,303
    My Cars
    hiss by my window
    From someone that's been around both blocks many times.
    First, you are already into this car for a bunch more than you could sell it for in running condition. Sadly, E39s are a dime a dozen right now. Check your local classifieds for prices, watch what sells and what doesn't.
    If the head gasket and or cracked head are confirmed, especially if cracked head or block threads are damaged from overheat, you are better served with a good used engine. Repairing your old one will certainly cost more.

    Parting out an E39 with a bad engine and a 170k trans won't get you much $$. Some of the common stuff will sell, MID, a few misc.electronic bits, headlights, etc., assuming yours are good. The front bumper will probably sell too but beyond that you'll be hard pressed to sell anything bigger than a bread box. Wheels will sell at the right price but leave your eyesore stranded on jacks.
    My advice? When you find yourself at the bottom of a hole stop digging.
    Unless you find a used engine cheap and will be doing the work yourself take your lumps now and sell this thing to someone else that might have an engine laying around or thinks they will make $$ parting it out.
    Last edited by ross1; 02-07-2018 at 08:54 AM.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    1,197
    My Cars
    00 528/5 & 02 530i Sport
    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    From someone that's been around both blocks many times.
    First, you are already into this car for a bunch more than you could sell it for in running condition. Sadly, E39s are a dime a dozen right now. Check your local classifieds for prices, watch what sells and what doesn't.
    If the head gasket and or cracked head are confirmed, especially if cracked head or block threads are damaged from overheat, you are better served with a good used engine. Repairing your old one will certainly cost more.

    Parting out an E39 with a bad engine and a 170k trans won't get you much $$. Some of the common stuff will sell, MID, a few misc.electronic bits, headlights, etc., assuming yours are good. The front bumper will probably sell too but beyond that you'll be hard pressed to sell anything bigger than a bread box. Wheels will sell at the right price but leave your eyesore stranded on jacks.
    My advice? When you find yourself at the bottom of a hole stop digging.
    Unless you find a used engine cheap and will be doing the work yourself take your lumps now and sell this thing to someone else that might have an engine laying around or thinks they will make $$ parting it out.
    Going to rent a block testerat the auto parts store -- is this what I need to diagnose if the HG is blown?

    Also, Is the best route to replace the engine? Would it be cheaper to replace (or repair the head if it isn't cracked) than to replace the engine?

    My mechanic has offered to have me help him in replacing to help reduce labor costs. I don't have the space/tools at my house at the moment as the garage is currently occupied by an E30 on jack stands.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    NW suburban Chicago
    Posts
    16,303
    My Cars
    hiss by my window
    Block tester? I am guessing the chemical test for exhaust in the coolant. That ought to tell you but isn't foolproof.
    Depending on the otherwise health of your existing engine and how much you can find a known good replacement for. If the engine overheated in a significant manner it may(likely)has pulled the head bolt threads out of the block. To check for this attempt to tighten the head bolts to spec before pulling the head. If any are stripped you have two problems to deal with. 1. the threads need to be repaired and you may as well do them all, it's an expensive kit(TimeSert), labor intensive and really not a project for someone's first time in an engine. BMW protocol in this scenario is to scrap the block. 2. an overheat significant enough to cause #1 will have certainly warped the head, another expensive proposition to repair. You've probably exceeded the value of the car by now to fix just the engine.

    What kind of health is your transmission in? Has it had regular fluid changes? Most have not and are already on borrowed time by 170k.
    So, my advice, given a healthy trans, remains as before, if you get a motor cheap and install it cheap that's what I'd do. Otherwise take your lumps and get out of the car.
    Last edited by ross1; 02-22-2018 at 03:05 PM.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    1,197
    My Cars
    00 528/5 & 02 530i Sport
    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    Block tester? I am guessing the chemical test for exhaust in the coolant. That ought to tell you but isn't foolproof.
    Depending on the otherwise health of your existing engine and how much you can find a known good replacement for. If the engine overheated in a significant manner it may(likely)has pulled the head bolt threads out of the block. To check for this attempt to tighten the head bolts to spec before pulling the head. If any are stripped you have two problems to deal with. 1. the threads need to be repaired and you may as well do them all, it's an expensive kit(TimeSert), labor intensive and really not a project for someone's first time in an engine. BMW protocol in this scenario is to scrap the block. 2. an overheat significant enough to cause #1 will have certainly warped the head, another expensive proposition to repair. You've probably exceeded the value of the car by now to fix just the engine.

    What kind of health is your transmission in? Has it had regular fluid changes? Most have not and are already on borrowed time by 170k.
    So, my advice, given a healthy trans, remains as before, if you get a motor cheap and install it cheap that's what I'd do. Otherwise take your lumps and get out of the car.
    Transmission shifts smoothly, and I changed the fluid/filter a few months ago in my ownership. The condition of the fluid wasn't horrible, but it was good to change it anyway. (I've only had the car since April 2017)

    In April, I bought a used m54 advertised with a little more than 100k on it for $970 -- that's what is in the car right now.

    So as of now, I'm not 100% sure it's a HG, which is why I wanted to do that test. I'm 100% certain that the car never overheated either... Is there another reason why the HG could be blown?

    Costs I'm considering:
    - Known-good long block engine assembly
    - Replacement head or machine shops costs (valve job, decking the head, etc)
    - Labor (which is easier/cost effective)

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Sincinnati
    Posts
    43
    My Cars
    2000 540i6, 2008 535xiT
    As TheAngryBear pointed out, I'd definitely check out the brake booster area. Recently, a friend of mine picked up a 2002 M5, had been stored inside for quite some time, but before that had been outside, leaves clogged the drain hole under the booster, booster sucked up a LOT of water.

    Ran rough, misfires, TON of white smoke, etc. Got worse when you pushed the brake pedal. Unfortunately, it was running funny the entire way back (Ann Arbor to Cincinnati). Drove it through torrential rains and it only got worse. After replacing oil separators, spark plugs, coils, vcg's, etc, I happened to look under the HVAC filter housing and saw my reflection. It was enough water where the engine refused to turn over at one point. Got very lucky. Cleared the drain, drained the booster, evacuated a LOT of water from the combustion chambers, new plugs, been good as new ever since.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    1,197
    My Cars
    00 528/5 & 02 530i Sport
    Quote Originally Posted by BMWCACincinnati View Post
    As TheAngryBear pointed out, I'd definitely check out the brake booster area. Recently, a friend of mine picked up a 2002 M5, had been stored inside for quite some time, but before that had been outside, leaves clogged the drain hole under the booster, booster sucked up a LOT of water.

    Ran rough, misfires, TON of white smoke, etc. Got worse when you pushed the brake pedal. Unfortunately, it was running funny the entire way back (Ann Arbor to Cincinnati). Drove it through torrential rains and it only got worse. After replacing oil separators, spark plugs, coils, vcg's, etc, I happened to look under the HVAC filter housing and saw my reflection. It was enough water where the engine refused to turn over at one point. Got very lucky. Cleared the drain, drained the booster, evacuated a LOT of water from the combustion chambers, new plugs, been good as new ever since.
    Omg that would amazing if that's all it was. That might explain my weird pedal behavior too...

    Can you be more prescriptive on where to look? Where do I check, and how do I locate the drain, etc?

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Sincinnati
    Posts
    43
    My Cars
    2000 540i6, 2008 535xiT
    e39enginebay.jpg

    What I have circled in red, remove that. Under that is the "bin" that contains the brake booster. Shine a flash light down in there. It'll be obvious if there's any water in it. The drain is hidden under the booster. I ended up sticking one of those flexible magnet things under it and poked at it until water/debris starting coming out from under the car.

    After that drained, I simply got a piece of silicone aquarium tubing and stuck it inside the vacuum port of the booster, draped it over the side of the car, sucked on it a bit to create vacuum, and let gravity do the rest until the booster was empty.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    1,197
    My Cars
    00 528/5 & 02 530i Sport
    Ok I think I figured it out -- hard to see but there is some water pooled up at the bottom here... It hasn't rained in weeks so I don't know if it slowly drained etc.

    Is it normal to have any water here at all? Also, where is the drain, and how would I clear it out? Any other steps to take?

    IMG_4145.jpgIMG_4143.jpg

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by BMWCACincinnati View Post
    e39enginebay.jpg

    What I have circled in red, remove that. Under that is the "bin" that contains the brake booster. Shine a flash light down in there. It'll be obvious if there's any water in it. The drain is hidden under the booster. I ended up sticking one of those flexible magnet things under it and poked at it until water/debris starting coming out from under the car.

    After that drained, I simply got a piece of silicone aquarium tubing and stuck it inside the vacuum port of the booster, draped it over the side of the car, sucked on it a bit to create vacuum, and let gravity do the rest until the booster was empty.
    Ok this makes sense... Booster runs off of engine vacuum -- and if there was water, it would be sucking it up into the intake hence white smoke. Where is the vacuum port of the booster?

    Anything else for me to be concerned about before I try starting the car again?

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    1,197
    My Cars
    00 528/5 & 02 530i Sport
    Is it this guy circled in red?


  18. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    1,197
    My Cars
    00 528/5 & 02 530i Sport
    Ok -- another update.

    I drained the cowl and a bunch of water came out from underneath... I suspect there is still water in the brake booster because 1) I didn't drain it, 2) I'm still having drivability issues. It starts up and idles fine, but when I put it in drive and give it a little gas, it stutters, and eventually stalls.

    Another weird thing which might be unrelated: I checked the dipstick and I couldn't even see any oil... I was able to add 2.5 quarts and now it's right at the minimum line... Is this normal? Haven't changed oil since I swapped in a new engine in April 2017 -- less than 8k miles ago. Seems like a lot of oil to be burned over that time?

    EDIT: I hope I didn't add too much oil -- I should've waited to check to see the levels after adding .5-1qt at a time
    Last edited by JPR10; 02-22-2018 at 06:24 PM.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Alexandria, VA
    Posts
    9,050
    My Cars
    ‘01 540’00 528T’03 525T
    So.... Lemme get this straight. You swapped in a new/old engine almost 8000 miles ago, you obviously have not bothered to check the oil at all, on a new to you, old engine, you finally decided to check the oil, because of all the troubles you seem to be going thru..... You see that you are low, so you add 2.5 quarts, and finally get the level up to the minimum, and you ask if this is normal??? What do you think? So basically, you just drive these motorized things to the ground, for some reason, had to replace the engine with one unfamiliar to you, you never once thought of staying on top of it, you know, keeping an eye on oil consumption, leaks, to familiarize yourself with some new/old engine you sourced from God knows where??? At the minimum line, the engine is still down a quart, 3.5 quarts in 8,000 miles.... You should be changing oil if you are using OW 40 Mobile One every 7500..... And you are wondering if this is normal??? HOLY CRAP, no it's not.

    On your other post, you are asking where the drain would be.... Where do you think it is? You gotta have some common sense,.......RIGHT?
    Look under the booster, there should be a clogged up hole full of debris, yes, the debris is what is causing the clog, at the bottom, the debris does not belong there. Blast it all out.....
    And stay on top of it. Sorry to be so harsh, but you have had a bunch of these cars already, and you are still acting like an E39 noob, I don't get it.
    Set the controls for the heart of the sun

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    1,197
    My Cars
    00 528/5 & 02 530i Sport
    Quote Originally Posted by BimmrMeUpSnotty View Post
    So.... Lemme get this straight. You swapped in a new/old engine almost 8000 miles ago, you obviously have not bothered to check the oil at all, on a new to you, old engine, you finally decided to check the oil, because of all the troubles you seem to be going thru..... You see that you are low, so you add 2.5 quarts, and finally get the level up to the minimum, and you ask if this is normal??? What do you think? So basically, you just drive these motorized things to the ground, for some reason, had to replace the engine with one unfamiliar to you, you never once thought of staying on top of it, you know, keeping an eye on oil consumption, leaks, to familiarize yourself with some new/old engine you sourced from God knows where??? At the minimum line, the engine is still down a quart, 3.5 quarts in 8,000 miles.... You should be changing oil if you are using OW 40 Mobile One every 7500..... And you are wondering if this is normal??? HOLY CRAP, no it's not.

    On your other post, you are asking where the drain would be.... Where do you think it is? You gotta have some common sense,.......RIGHT?
    Look under the booster, there should be a clogged up hole full of debris, yes, the debris is what is causing the clog, at the bottom, the debris does not belong there. Blast it all out.....
    And stay on top of it. Sorry to be so harsh, but you have had a bunch of these cars already, and you are still acting like an E39 noob, I don't get it.
    Lol you're so endearing, thanks for your help.

    But seriously, you're right that I should have kept on top of this new-to-me engine to look for oil consumption, etc... Admittedly don't have a lot of experience in that department. I also checked my mileage logs and I've actually driven it less than 6k miles... Just checked oil again and it's in the middle between add/full. Hopefully the high oil consumption is due to a faulty PCV and not the motor itself.

    And yes, I was just being lazy -- and I have common sense. I should probably think through the problem before typing out my thoughts/questions. First time dealing w/ this issue surprisingly, but at least it's something I'll be aware of in the future.
    Last edited by JPR10; 02-22-2018 at 07:20 PM.

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Alexandria, VA
    Posts
    9,050
    My Cars
    ‘01 540’00 528T’03 525T
    Quote Originally Posted by JPR10 View Post
    Lol you're so endearing, thanks for your help.

    But seriously, you're right that I should have kept on top of this new-to-me engine to look for oil consumption, etc... Admittedly don't have a lot of experience in that department. I also checked my mileage logs and I've actually driven it less than 6k miles... Just checked oil again and it's in the middle between add/full. Hopefully the high oil consumption is due to a faulty PCV and not the motor itself.

    And yes, I was just being lazy -- and I have common sense. I should probably think through the problem before typing out my thoughts/questions. First time dealing w/ this issue surprisingly, but at least it's something I'll be aware of in the future.
    Most of the time, I do it for that exact effect. I actually hope it helps you to mentally stay on top of these awesome beautiful cars, these damn E39's, full of there goofy quirks, these damn things are so predictable, everyone pretty much goes through the same rigamarole of issues that everybody else with the same disease does, that's what the love of these cars is, a disease. the secret to enjoying them is, stay on top of things, be proactive, not reactive, and they will only take you by surprise once in a while.
    Set the controls for the heart of the sun

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Sincinnati
    Posts
    43
    My Cars
    2000 540i6, 2008 535xiT
    Wow there's been some activity here.

    Anyway, no. Water in anything other than the radiator is abnormal...and even then it shouldn't be just water.

    Get that junk cleaned out. Ideally you'd remove the booster, drain it, blow it out the best you can, and reinstall. Sounds to me like when you're hitting the brakes to put it in gear, you're pushing water from the booster to the intake.

    If this has been happening for awhile, and judging by the look of that water, it has been, you should probably replace your spark plugs, because they are no doubt trashed.

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    1,197
    My Cars
    00 528/5 & 02 530i Sport
    Quote Originally Posted by BMWCACincinnati View Post
    Wow there's been some activity here.

    Anyway, no. Water in anything other than the radiator is abnormal...and even then it shouldn't be just water.

    Get that junk cleaned out. Ideally you'd remove the booster, drain it, blow it out the best you can, and reinstall. Sounds to me like when you're hitting the brakes to put it in gear, you're pushing water from the booster to the intake.

    If this has been happening for awhile, and judging by the look of that water, it has been, you should probably replace your spark plugs, because they are no doubt trashed.
    That's what I think is happening as well. Will look to replace spark plugs + the master cylinder o ring as well. Will see if this is the fix!

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,154
    My Cars
    99 528i/5, 05 ZHP conv
    This water near booster may be your problem, but given that you reported white smoke. I still suggest you go borrow a compression tester from autozone and test it....particularly if you plan to inspect plugs anyway. No extra work.

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    NW suburban Chicago
    Posts
    16,303
    My Cars
    hiss by my window
    Quote Originally Posted by JPR10 View Post
    Ok -- another update.

    I drained the cowl and a bunch of water came out from underneath... I suspect there is still water in the brake booster because 1) I didn't drain it, 2) I'm still having drivability issues. It starts up and idles fine, but when I put it in drive and give it a little gas, it stutters, and eventually stalls.

    Another weird thing which might be unrelated: I checked the dipstick and I couldn't even see any oil... I was able to add 2.5 quarts and now it's right at the minimum line... Is this normal? Haven't changed oil since I swapped in a new engine in April 2017 -- less than 8k miles ago. Seems like a lot of oil to be burned over that time?

    EDIT: I hope I didn't add too much oil -- I should've waited to check to see the levels after adding .5-1qt at a time
    Smoke and diminished oil level. I'd be looking at the crankcase ventilation system.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. 95 M3 totalled. Selling as is or parting out. Make an offer
    By cbksupreme in forum Whole Parts Cars
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 09-14-2013, 01:19 AM
  2. Z3 - Sell- Private, Dealer or Part out?
    By PatJags156 in forum 1996 - 2002 Z3 (E36/7, E36/8)
    Replies: 60
    Last Post: 11-11-2011, 03:58 PM
  3. Trying to decide - Sell "As Is" or Part out
    By Hellrot530i in forum 1988 - 1996 (E34)
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 09-25-2009, 05:19 PM
  4. Fix and sell, sell as is, or fix and daily driver?
    By FYAMAN in forum Hawaii & Other Islands
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 07-14-2007, 02:43 AM
  5. Need advice: to sell as is or fix and sell?
    By just4skim in forum BMW Cars For Sale / Wanted
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 07-11-2007, 04:09 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •