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Thread: About to do subframe and RTAB- am I crazy for going at it without the exact tools?

  1. #1
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    About to do subframe and RTAB- am I crazy for going at it without the exact tools?

    Hi guys- wondering if any of you have done subframe bushings and RTAB without the puller tools. I did the Diff bushings without the pullers, and it was a pain in the butt, but it was also done while the subframe was in the car.

    If I am in fact crazy for going about it without the tools, does anyone have any that I can borrow? I'm happy to rent them/ pay for shipping (flat rate boxes?) and pay a deposit on them. I don't want to shell out the money for tools I'll truly use once.

  2. #2
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    I think about 65% of this forum is all rtab/subframe info.......


    IG: dimitriantoniou

  3. #3
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    I just did them all. The only problems I had was with the upper and lower control arm bushings on the spindle. I couldn't get my smaller press or make a tool to get the new ones in. Most will come out with a trip to the hardware store. Pick up some long heavy grade bolts, nuts, and large flat washers. I think I also had a 1 3/4" socket laying around. I post a pic if I can find it. I used a bench vice to press some of them too.

  4. #4
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    I've tried a TON of methods. Nothing works more good than fire and a sawzall.

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  5. #5
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    Here's what I did. Be careful removing axles from hub as I defaced the shaft and were the nut goes trying to beat it out. I eventually had to have them pressed out. And look at that oem hole compared to the round bushing. The Germans got us back for winning the war.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

    - - - Updated - - -

    And don't forget to put your brake heat shields back on first! lol I had to cut mine to get them back on.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by protomor View Post
    I've tried a TON of methods. Nothing works more good than fire and a sawzall.
    Sigh.... Did that for the Diff bushings, and the it worked, but it wasn't the easiest. Not to mention the participation that played in the likelihood of lung cancer!

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by BacDoc View Post
    Here's what I did. Be careful removing axles from hub as I defaced the shaft and were the nut goes trying to beat it out. I eventually had to have them pressed out. And look at that oem hole compared to the round bushing. The Germans got us back for winning the war.
    And don't forget to put your brake heat shields back on first! lol I had to cut mine to get them back on.
    Luckily I just replaced one of the axles, and it came out of hub pretty easily. I'm hoping to not have to bother witt the axles though, if I'm pulling the entire subframe out. I guess the car's going to need an alignment after this job....

    Side note- If I'm taking it out, I suppose I should replace the upper bushings on the trailing arm?

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    The 5 bushings in the subframe were the easiest for me. Make sure to evaluate whether it needs welded to reinforce while its out.

  8. #8
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    Evaluate? Might as well if it's all out. Esp if OP has a pre facelift 330 :-D

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  9. #9
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    If you have the space for one, buy yourself a shop press. The number of car projects that can be simplified/made easier with one might surprise you
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  10. #10
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    I'm taking them out while reinforcing. As a drift car, I think I' d be crazy to not reinforce my uncracked 225k mile car's subframe mounts!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by protomor View Post
    Evaluate? Might as well if it's all out. Esp if OP has a pre facelift 330 :-D
    Quote Originally Posted by awp235 View Post
    I'm taking them out while reinforcing. As a drift car, I think I' d be crazy to not reinforce my uncracked 225k mile car's subframe mounts!
    This.

  12. #12
    Join Date
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    1999 328ic , 2002 325xi
    Rtabs I always just sawsall the stock ones out and replace with something I don't need a special tool to install. Like the Bimmerworld Spherical Rtab's

  13. #13
    Join Date
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    1995 BMW M3 coupe
    Air hammer worked super good for rtabs for me. I had to make press block to do the sphericals on the knuckle though, they’re in there very tight

  14. #14
    Join Date
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    I'm using poly rtab and solid subframe mounts. I'll try to air hammer them out, and I might have to just mallet/ sledge with a block of wood to get them in.
    No room or money for a shop press, unfortunately.

  15. #15
    Join Date
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    I picked up my shop press (exactly the HF one pictured) for $80 on sale. It's pretty small all things considered. I've never legit used it so far though. *shrugs*

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  16. #16
    Join Date
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    I used fire and an air hammer for the sleeves, super easy

  17. #17
    Join Date
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    1993 318i Touring
    I have used the free Ball Joint press tools from Advance Auto to get out and install the RTAB. It works fine, and its free.

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