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Thread: Vibration persist after replacing engine and transmission mounts

  1. #126
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    Oh, it's that hole?! I have the old one there still, will replace with new one when retiming bank1, see below (bad picture, wasnt made to point that part out):

    oring.jpg

    Thanks a lot guys! Error is likely timing though, just dont want to tear it down until I drove it a bit, see if other issues should be resolved. The engine never sounded this good, it's like classical music! Of course it could still leak coolant or oil, that's why I wanted to drive it a bit.

  2. #127
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    Decided to redo the whole job, I needed to retime the engine anyway, that's almost halfway there. Mostly because wanted to put in an original chain and an original guide (the big one). I can do this job now in my sleep! Amazing how much faster it goes for the second time.

    Retimed the engine, it was probably 1-2mm off, now it's timed to perfection...however: the car now cranks but wont start. No error codes of any kind.
    Everything should be functional like fuel pump etc, this car was running fine a week ago. Battery was disconnected during the job, I couldnt shortcut anything.
    Any ideas what could be the issue? Perhaps something might got disconnected during the job, but not sure what. Using same camshaft sensors and they are connected.
    Has somebody run into this after doing the TCGs?

    Thanks!
    Last edited by georgebest; 03-30-2018 at 09:32 PM.

  3. #128
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    Seems like something must be disconnected or not quite plugged in all the way somewhere. You must have triple checked everything?
    2000 740i Sport | 2004 330xi | 1988 325i Vert | 2003 Z4 2.5 | 1995 Ford F150 | 2018 GTI

  4. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by clarkitect View Post
    Seems like something must be disconnected or not quite plugged in all the way somewhere. You must have triple checked everything?
    I did check everything, all is connected properly. Anyway, reconnecting all connectors and then checking for spark. I hope it's not one those zillion wires coming from DME

  5. #130
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    Yeah I hate bending those brittle wiring harnesses up.
    2000 740i Sport | 2004 330xi | 1988 325i Vert | 2003 Z4 2.5 | 1995 Ford F150 | 2018 GTI

  6. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by clarkitect View Post
    Yeah I hate bending those brittle wiring harnesses up.
    Yep, if one of those wires came apart I wont be able to fix it myself. You really need to bend it hard to access Bank 1.

  7. #132
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    It has spark. That's good news I guess.
    It could be only fuel/injector related, right? I didnt put back those PITA injector clips but doubt they matter, the two nuts pushing the cover down hard anyway.
    Has to be injectors cause I didnt touch anything about the fuel pump.

  8. #133
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    I think I've identified the issue, not yet sure how to solve it:
    The fuel pump not priming when cranking, I dont hear the relay clicking and the usual sound of it the pump. Removed the relay and jumpered it and the pump runs just fine. At this point I would have thought it's the relay, but I have the exact same type of relay for the heated window and switched them over. No luck, still not running. The two fuses (17 & 57) are fine.
    So it's not the pump, not the relay...crankshaft sensor perhaps? Probably the only sensor I havent replaced in this car
    As long as it's not a wire in a bundle of 300 wires I'm happy with any problems!
    Thanks!
    Last edited by georgebest; 03-31-2018 at 05:56 PM.

  9. #134
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    Thinking about it loud, I know the followings so far:
    - fuel pump running if removed the relay and jumped the pins, so it's not the pump
    - swapped relays with the one next to it, chances are low both of them being defective, likely not an issue with the relay
    - relay doesn't click as it used to when I put ignition into pos. 2 and also not hearing the 1-2 sec priming sound from pump
    - crankshaft sensor likely plays no role at this early on, thus I would rule it out at this point

    This start sounding like a DME issue. Like the DME not sending power to the relay. I have no clue how to solve or even test that. Any ideas would be highly appreciated.

  10. #135
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    I was thinking the same thing and even was looking in my Bentley to see if they had any helpful troubleshooting tips. I couldn’t really discern anything helpful and would have to defer to a sharper mind :-).
    2000 740i Sport | 2004 330xi | 1988 325i Vert | 2003 Z4 2.5 | 1995 Ford F150 | 2018 GTI

  11. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by clarkitect View Post
    I was thinking the same thing and even was looking in my Bentley to see if they had any helpful troubleshooting tips. I couldn’t really discern anything helpful and would have to defer to a sharper mind :-).
    That's very kind of you! Where is Timm when we need him?

    I guess it is possible that I have two bad relays in the trunk, car was used in CA and probably never used window heating (other relay is for window heating). I hardly used it in winter either, but still unlikely.
    Crankshaft sensor: it doesn't make sense that it plays any role in initial priming, but who knows, could be a possibility.

    I will figure which pins to measure to see if DME sends signal (85 & 86 perhaps) so I can rule out relay entirely. Not like it matters much, it's a $6 part.

    Guess I can start the car,just by jumping the relay and then cranking. Just should install a manual switch on the dashboard and problem solved, screw you DME we are going old school!

    This is probably how Cyclops2 started out 5 years ago and just being ready to putting the car on the road. Been working on this car for 6 months now

  12. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by georgebest View Post
    That's very kind of you! Where is Timm when we need him?
    In a different time zone!

    Have you checked the DME relay in the E-Box:



    You've done all sorts of things that might have popped one!
    Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i


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  13. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timm View Post
    In a different time zone!

    Have you checked the DME relay in the E-Box:

    You've done all sorts of things that might have popped one!
    Thanks Timm, always appreciate your comments!
    Main DME relay: yes, checked and it's connected, not sure how to test the relay itself though. Anyway, ordered the followings:
    - Main DME Relay
    - Fuel Pump Relay
    - Crankshaft Position Sensor

    Will know more when they got here in a few days. Only DME and DME wiring left if not any of these three.

  14. #139
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    ....and you have also checked all fuses in the fuse carrier as shown above?
    Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i


    My BMW Repair YouTube Channel
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  15. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timm View Post
    ....and you have also checked all fuses in the fuse carrier as shown above?
    Yes, I have. All fuses are good. Both in E-box and trunk.

  16. #141
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    EWS DME sync problem? Did you pull the battery with the key in the ignition? There have been issues in the past when people leave keys in the ignition and the battery dies. DME loses sync.
    '98 740il | 9/97 build | schwarz 2 | sandbeige | 5AT | 270k
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    '85 Mustang GT convertible | Medium charcoal metallic | Gray | 5MT | 216k | one owner, all original

    mods: m-pars | Bilsteins & B&G springs | ValentineOne | StealthOne
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  17. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by racer2086 View Post
    EWS DME sync problem? Did you pull the battery with the key in the ignition? There have been issues in the past when people leave keys in the ignition and the battery dies. DME loses sync.
    I did...how to resync? INPA?
    On the othe hand, it's cranking and has spark. Just pump not starting.
    Last edited by georgebest; 04-03-2018 at 10:38 AM.

  18. #143
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    Oh I can't specifically remember what gets cut off. Maybe it's fuel? Someone has to remember. You would need software for that like INPA.
    '98 740il | 9/97 build | schwarz 2 | sandbeige | 5AT | 270k
    '04 330i ZHP sedan | Mystic blue | Alcantara | 6MT | 120k
    '00 540i sport | Titanium silver | Black | 5AT | 152k
    '85 Mustang GT convertible | Medium charcoal metallic | Gray | 5MT | 216k | one owner, all original

    mods: m-pars | Bilsteins & B&G springs | ValentineOne | StealthOne
    retrofits: full nav | MKIV | bluetooth TCU | BM53 w/ AUX input | video module w/ AV input & backup cam | oem sirius xm | xenon | shades | PDC | rain sensor | BMW DWS TPMS | lighted door handles | front seat heaters | heated steering wheel | euro rear fog lights | ski pass | folding mirrors


  19. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by racer2086 View Post
    Oh I can't specifically remember what gets cut off. Maybe it's fuel? Someone has to remember. You would need software for that like INPA.
    Could be fuel, I cant get INPA running via the 20 PIN connector for an unknown reason. Tried the DME-EWS synchronization with BMW Scanner but only got me an error message. Otherwise no error in DME or EWS modul, also tried an older key and made no difference.

    Just got the new Crankshaft Position Sensor...turns out FCP has the wrong one listed for my car. BMW changed it on 2000/03...guess when my car was produced Waiting for the correct type (12141433264), this is the new model. The old one doesnt fit.
    Also, the aftermarket relay they sell for the fuel pump has only 4 pins vs the original 5, so I rather returning it. Only thing I could replace so far was the DME main relay, made no difference.

    I need to move closer to FCP or ECS to get this project moving faster

  20. #145
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    Finally got the parts, and now I have no idea how to proceed forward. Quick recap of the situation:

    - after timing chain/guide upgrade the engine cranks but does not start
    - pulled a spark plug and there is clearly spark
    - when key going into pos 2 I dont hear the fuel pump relay clicking anymore and/or the fuel pump priming
    - fuel pump starts when removing the relay and connecting the appropriate pins with a wire
    Today I have replaced the followings:
    - fuel pump relay
    - DME main relay
    - Crankshaft Position Sensor
    Also did the re syncing of the DME-EWS with INPA, it went thru without any error message.
    No DME or EWS error message or any other major error in modules
    After the replacement of the above parts and resynching the symptom remained the same: crank with no start.
    Also tried jumpering the fuel pump (keep it running) and then cranking, still no start.

    So it seems I have two issues, somehow related:
    - fuel pump relay not switching on
    - even when switching on the pump manually, no combustion

    And this is all started by something what I did during the TCG job.

    I can of course start measuring fuel pressure but what'd be the point? Not like that would help starting the pump.

    Any ideas would be highly appreciated cause I run out of them.

    Thanks a lot!
    Last edited by georgebest; 04-10-2018 at 05:47 PM.

  21. #146
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    I should add that I have a bet going on with colleague that I could get the car working before May 31st without taking it to a mechanic )

  22. #147
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    George, since it ran before the rework, obviously something occurred during that period.
    check the TIS for fuel/DME feed:
    https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ngine2/bowkipk

    It looks like the 30 amp fuse that feeds the DME relay and the fuel injectors is at F109, which is under
    the passenger seat in the fuse carrier. Seems to be the common denominator in your issue. Let us know
    how it works out.

  23. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldroller View Post
    George, since it ran before the rework, obviously something occurred during that period.
    check the TIS for fuel/DME feed:
    https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ngine2/bowkipk

    It looks like the 30 amp fuse that feeds the DME relay and the fuel injectors is at F109, which is under
    the passenger seat in the fuse carrier. Seems to be the common denominator in your issue. Let us know
    how it works out.
    All the fuses are fine in the e-box and trunk, havent checked the ones at the passanger seat. But the fact that the pump can be started manually and that the DME communicates just fine wouldnt rule out any fuse issues?
    Anyway, worth checking it for sure.
    Last edited by georgebest; 04-10-2018 at 07:34 PM.

  24. #149
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    Checked the fuses under the passenger seat, all have 12.6V on both ends, including F109. They are all original with the exception of F107.
    I wonder if it's even possible to start the engine after manually starting the pump, got some EWS error message after doing it. Probably detects it as a tampering attempt and blocks the injectors. Cleared the code and didnt came back.
    I still dont think the problem is injector related cause pump should be priming for a second or so before cranking and it doesn't do that anymore. At least I think it used to do that after a click of the relay.
    Last edited by georgebest; 04-10-2018 at 09:01 PM.

  25. #150
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    Assumption is good fuel level? Had to say it, been there before, lol.

    Have you tried fuel misting the intake and cranking, since you have spark? If it lights off, then the possible
    loss of initiation is the DME on the DME relay and fuel pump relay circuit, both triggered after unloader relay/ignition/crank signal.

    Since you tried firing it off with the pump relay wired, the DME should have cycled the injectors. Provided all fuses are good,
    I suspect a DME fault, OR....loss of 12v feed to injectors while cranking, possibly from moving the harness during repair.
    Time for some in depth checking of circuitry. You'll win the bet, for sure.

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