Vibration persist after replacing engine and transmission mounts

[cyclops2]

Say if I managed to remove the "Jesus bolt", do I need a puller to remove the flange or it just comes off? Like a wheel hub puller or similar. Thanks!

It will just pull off.

[georgebest]

It will just pull off.

Thanks! Just waiting for the BMW tool, hope to get it tomorrow. Should go working out today!

[georgebest]

Madnass!
Got the tool and a 40 inch 3/4 breaker & socket... still doesnt move. Time to make that breaker longer

[cyclops2]

Longer break??!!!....lol. .....oh, breaker. Right. Plus did you have your Wheaties?

[georgebest]

Longer break??!!!....lol. .....oh, breaker. Right. Plus did you have your Wheaties?

This seriously makes feel weak )

[clarkitect]

You need to seriously put your weight into it. It's tight AF.

[georgebest]

You need to seriously put your weight into it. It's tight AF.

So far...George vs Jesus Bolt: 0-2

If car wasnt in the garage i'd just tie a rope around the breaker and have it pulled with another car Cant do it in the current set up unfortunately.
I'm spending more time on this one bolt than the whole TCG update, I would be ready by now

Next up a long pipe, if not working I need to try some pneumatic or electric impact wrench. There are some with 1200 ft.lbs of max breakaway torque, that should be plenty for something originally troqued for approx 400Nm.
Anyway, pipe should work!

...and yes, I should probably work out more

[georgebest]

V I C T O R Y!!!!

It's out! For future incompetents like me, here are the tools used:
Performance Tool W34122 3/4-Inch Drive 40-Inch Jumbo Breaker Bar
Sunex 427md 3/4-Inch Drive 27-Mm Deep Impact Socket
BMW Crank Holder 83300490894

The trick was to instead of pushing it using my leg and arm muscles, pulling it from the otherside using my body mass. You can make the conlusion about my muscle vs fat ratio on your own )

Finally! Now back to the original job... after a 3 days detour. I should frame this bolt or something.

[georgebest]

And some pictures!

This is how the genuine BMW tool looks like, fan clutch tool for comparison:
DSC06779.jpg
It certainly doesnt have that cool MadMax feel as the tools you guys put together

Behind the cover of course it's full of broken guide pieces everywhere. I'm surprised that this engine even worked. Chain is extremly loose, no wonder it had timing issues.
More interestingly the upper oil pan gasket broke, no surprise there it was 18 years old, see picture below. It would be too much work to remove it. Do you guys think that gasket maker would do it here?

Upper oil pan gasket.jpg

[clarkitect]

Get a new gasket and just use the front piece with some RTV in the corners. You’re right, changing the upper oil pan would make the Jesus bolt look like cake. If the old piece is whole you might be able to use it again with some RTV on it.

You’re on the home stretch now!

[cyclops2]

coming along now. good job.

[oldroller]

Get a new gasket and just use the front piece with some RTV in the corners. You’re right, changing the upper oil pan would make the Jesus bolt look like cake. If the old piece is whole you might be able to use it again with some RTV on it.

You’re on the home stretch now!

Mine broke in two places, most sticking to the lower cover. Carefully removed it, cleaned all surfaces and skinned RTV top and bottom.
Let the gasket cure for an hour on the oil pan edge, then skinned a thin coat on the cover, with an extra dab where it cracked, and in the corners. Torque to
specs and continue. No leaks at all after 15k. Much easier than pulling the engine to replace the upper pan gasket!

[740iSport303]

I did like Clark described and worked perfectly for me. No leaks in over 2 years.

[racer2086]

For those that read this in the future, I was extra careful pulling the lower cover and got mine to stay intact. Key is to lift the cover as much as you can (it's not much because there are two centering dowels at the bottom and use a putty knife or something very thin to separate the gasket from the lower cover.

Then gently lift the gasket to skim along the oil pan and then do the top for the cover.

What was mentioned here for broken gaskets is more than sufficient and will work fine.

[georgebest]

Then gently lift the gasket to skim along the oil pan and then do the top for the cover.
What was mentioned here for broken gaskets is more than sufficient and will work fine.

There was no way to pull off mine gently, for a while I was wondering if I missed a bolt it was so strongly stuck together. I had to use a hammer as a crowbar to pull the whole thing apart.

Thanks for the tip, will get a new one and use only the front part + RTV.

[georgebest]

We should have a badge system with different levels:

Level 1: fixed glovebox
.
.
Level 5: Jesus Bolt
.
.
Level 8: Upper oil pan gaskets without lift

..and so on Not sure what highest level would be.

[georgebest]

Got a bunch of parts, but not everything though at least I could move forward a bit.
Any of you had a hard time with the teflon seal replacement on VANOS? On one unit I had no issues at all, on the other one I already tore apart 5(!) seals. No matter how well it fits when I push in the cylinder it gets dislodged and torn. Raj from Beisan trying to figure out why, I might need to buy a rebuilt unit if not succeeding. Let me publicly shame this part!

DSC06807.jpg

Bracing in for putting the jesus bolt back this weekend, bottom cover cleaned nicely:

DSC06811.jpg

New guides, chains and even some bolts, starting to come together:

DSC06810.jpg

and down with the old! Probably wouldnt sell well on Ebay:

DSC06803.jpg

Fun project so far, not counting the Jesus bolt and the teflon seal

[georgebest]

also kind of interesting, look how hard the chain was hitting the cover. This car was probably miles away from a broken chain, I got really lucky!

chain marks.jpg

[georgebest]

I'm really surprised how small the torques are that BMW sets for the timing chain bottom cover. I only have M6 & M7 bolts so 10-15Nm, would have thought minimum 15-22Nm but will do whatever they say, used Loctite 242 on all bolts at least.

What a beauty tho:

DSC06817.jpg

[oldroller]

Agreed George, these are elegant engines. Simple to work on mechanically. It really is a shame how
many hit the skids for a few hundred dollars of guides and gaskets.

You will be proud of yours!

[georgebest]

You will be proud of yours!

Cant wait to start it up! Have to sort out the VANOS teflon seal issue first though, so probably not for another week or two.

Something else: is there any sensor monitoring the transmission oil level? I have noticed some leak around the tranny oil cooling line, where it enters the heat exchanger. How would I know if oil level is low in transmission? Other than going over the whole procedure to warm it up, put the car on jacks etc. Thanks!

[oldroller]

Unless you have the dipstick mod it's the long version. Jack stands, level, cold, should just dribble when the side bolt is removed.

[georgebest]

Unless you have the dipstick mod it's the long version. Jack stands, level, cold, should just dribble when the side bolt is removed.

If I removed the side bolt when cold oil would rush out, has to reach a certain temperature in the transmission and then open it. Done it a few times just thought maybe there was a sensor in it to warn for lower level. Anyway, first I need to solve the VANOS issue, nothing will warm up till then!

[georgebest]

This for the benefit of anybody planning to do the Beisan VANOS update:

if the Teflon ring properly placed in with all waves smoothed out but still gets pulled down with the shaft, your VANOS inner plastic is most likely cracked. Unfortunately, there is no easy way to check it. My two units looked identical, one upgraded with no issues but it was impossible to do it for the other one.
Ordering a rebuilt unit from Dr. Vanos for net $250 after core charge return.

[georgebest]

Now finally having both VANOS unit and putting on the timing chain. But the new chain (IWIS) is extremely tight! To the level that the only way to putting on would be turning the engine with the chain half way on so it will slowly get in place (see picture below):

DSC06838.jpg

So the question is: can I remove the pin locking the engine into position and turn it until the chain gets in place or that could destroy something? Otherwise I have no idea how to put this on!
The concern is obviously to damage a valve or something, I have the timing tools screwed on to the camshaft, but not sure in what position that looks the valves.