haha, only 100 miles so far! It is still in project status (5 years now).
But with this project, at this point anyway, my hopes are to keep it until it comes full circle back to needing expensive work like the TCG. So I figure another 100k or more.
Hope to make it my daily in 6 weeks; that requires working on it however! lol
I'll probably put the tool up for sale soon. I have a bunch of stuff I need to sell to help fund a little of this build and future maintenance expenses!!
1997 740iL; 5/96 build. Purchased 12/04. Off the road build project 2013 - 2021. back on road 3/2021. Became daily driver (only vehicle) 6/12/2021. Still not completed. Stay tuned as the adventure continues.
Got finally the timing tools!
But how do you get this bolt out? 2 feet breaker bar + PB Blaster didnt help. I start to worry that if applying more force the head will break off and... that would be probably the end of this engine. Cause I have no idea how I'd ever get it out then.
DSC06776.jpg
Any creative ideas?
stop stop stop
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I pulled off the road to text. Do not rely on the special tool to lock engine to remove the Jesus bolt. You will damage your engine.
- - - Updated - - -
You need a bar to lock the crankshaft and you will use a 3 or 4 foot breaker bar withn3/4 drive.
That tiny flywheel lock key from the kit isn't to lock the crankshaft for the purpose of removing the Jesus bolt. It will be used later for holding the crank in place when setting the cam timing. I was a spectator during this process so not best equipped to tell you the details.
However, I was involved in the removal of the Jesus bolt and you might enjoy this little video of when I did it. A mechanic buddy of mine was manning the mongo breaker and I was the primary narrator plus his color commentary. Note the use of a metal bar positioned on a jack stand that was holding the crank in place. If you use the small flywheel lock in the kit, you'll actually end up breaking out a chuck of the casting.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByV...ew?usp=sharing
1997 740iL; 5/96 build. Purchased 12/04. Off the road build project 2013 - 2021. back on road 3/2021. Became daily driver (only vehicle) 6/12/2021. Still not completed. Stay tuned as the adventure continues.
That's some great video, lol! Very creative I see what you mean now, this looks way better than the pin holding it.
TIS also suggests a similar tool: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...arings/Ar7D5xR
Though I'm not sure what else could broke if using the pin. It would be the pin vs the rusty thread, right? Surely the pin is kind of thin so I could see it breaking, but that wouldnt be a catastrophic. What else could break?
Last edited by georgebest; 02-24-2018 at 08:42 AM.
You could possibly break the aluminum bellhouse casting. Just get some 1/4” steel plate and fab up a crank holder. I made this using steel plate and a long steel tube. Didn’t need the handle, could have used the jackstand trick like cyclops. Bolt is probably not rusted it’s just super tight. I had a 3/4” breaker bar and about a 4’ pipe extension for extra torque and it still took two of us- one on the holding tool one on the breaker bar- heaving with all our albeit lame amount of might to break that sucker free. When it does let loose it’ll do so slowly, not a sharp snap. But it’ll come.
Last edited by clarkitect; 02-24-2018 at 08:52 AM.
Thanks for the ideas!
So far I came up with this one:
DSC06778.jpg
Weakest link is the 10M bolt, but if breaks it's not a big deal. Now trying to get 3/4 socket and 4 feet bar. The pin is out, really appreciate the warnings.
(That's the fan clutch tool)
Edit: I see you have that sitting on a jack. I thought it was on the upper oil pan. Not sure how that will hold up. That bolt is ON THERE. Like really tight. They sell the crank holding tool on Amazon for $60. I can ship you mine otherwise.
That thing is a fat ass metal pipe welded to a metal ring that takes 4 bolts to the crank. It sat up against the driver's frame rail for support with a wood 2x4 in between.
Get a good quality 3/4 breaker bar. Then go to home Depot, bring your breaker bar, buy 4 feet of galvanized pipe and thin walled PVC as a spacer to go between the breaker and pipe.
I stood against my garage cement wall and pushed and got it off no problem.
Last edited by racer2086; 02-24-2018 at 12:27 PM.
'98 740il | 9/97 build | schwarz 2 | sandbeige | 5AT | 270k
'04 330i ZHP sedan | Mystic blue | Alcantara | 6MT | 120k
'00 540i sport | Titanium silver | Black | 5AT | 152k
'85 Mustang GT convertible | Medium charcoal metallic | Gray | 5MT | 216k | one owner, all original
mods: m-pars | Bilsteins & B&G springs | ValentineOne | StealthOne
retrofits: full nav | MKIV | bluetooth TCU | BM53 w/ AUX input | video module w/ AV input & backup cam | oem sirius xm | xenon | shades | PDC | rain sensor | BMW DWS TPMS | lighted door handles | front seat heaters | heated steering wheel | euro rear fog lights | ski pass | folding mirrors
No chance that fan clutch tool will work. I would order the right tool. Either way keep us posted. I will add that I have read that some folks have succeeded with a 1/2 inch breaker or even a powerful half inch impact wrench.....but it is rare. Usually big leverage needed. ALSO that Jesus bolt must be replaced and not reused.
I'm getting tomorrow a 40inch - 3/4 breaker bar and a 3/4 socket, so that part is covered. If 40 inch isnt enough (that's what she said) I can put a pipe on it.
Not finding anything on Amazon, FCP has a Baum tool for it: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ol-baum-112450
The problem is that FCP has been totally unreliable lately on shipping, could take another week to get it. Would much rather buy it from Amazon.
Checking which one can I get fastest.
Last edited by georgebest; 02-24-2018 at 02:12 PM.
Local BMW dealer can get it on Monday for $100, that's not too bad. I can probably sell it on Ebay for $50 then.
They highlighted the "no return" policy on tools, lol.
Bad news that we will never know if my fan clutch setup would have worked or not!
Do you guys think that I can remove the Vanos parts in the meantime and work on the Beisan upgrade? For that I'd need to remove the chains. I suspect that I should not remove the Jesus bolt with the chains off, right?
Glad you found a fast source through the dealer, and $100 isn't bad from them really. I was just going to tell you that when buying this tool look for bar stock design rather than welded tubular - I've read many stories of the weld connection of the tubular arm snapping off. When looking you'll note the 2 basic designs; tubular welded and bar stock. I am sure the BMW tool will be just fine. Keep us posted.
As far as your questions about Vanos, I don't know, don't have it.
1997 740iL; 5/96 build. Purchased 12/04. Off the road build project 2013 - 2021. back on road 3/2021. Became daily driver (only vehicle) 6/12/2021. Still not completed. Stay tuned as the adventure continues.
you might have a hard time removing the chain from the first vanos/sprocket, a little tight even with the tensioner out.
But you could break the cam bolts loose (left-hand threads of course) and remove the upper covers and solenoids, etc
for cleanup.
I did remove the vanos when I reworked the left head without taking the lower cover/hub off, but I removed the cams as
necessary and tilted it free of the chains. Not sure you want to go that deep.
Good work! Quite a marvel, these engines.
Getting out the upper chains is probably not an issue for me, they are quite loose. It's more like I'm not sure what kind of timing or valve issues it could cause turning the crankshaft without the chains attached.
Cause I'd still have the "jesus bolt" on (this name cracks me up) and would remove it only later, in this case without the chains attached.
Anyway, not a big deal waiting for Monday, just planned to work on the car this weekend.
If you keep everything together and take it apart with the tools, likely you will be able to get everything lined up as factory when you put it all back together with new chains.
I think the Amazon tool I got is a welded tubluar one. It's like 1.5" tube and thick walled. No issues at all getting the bolt off. In fact, it was lifting the car as I heaved on that pipe. Insane they have to be on that tight.
George make sure you get a new bolt as mentioned. They are stretch to yield bolts and you will be cranking that sucker down after reassembly.
'98 740il | 9/97 build | schwarz 2 | sandbeige | 5AT | 270k
'04 330i ZHP sedan | Mystic blue | Alcantara | 6MT | 120k
'00 540i sport | Titanium silver | Black | 5AT | 152k
'85 Mustang GT convertible | Medium charcoal metallic | Gray | 5MT | 216k | one owner, all original
mods: m-pars | Bilsteins & B&G springs | ValentineOne | StealthOne
retrofits: full nav | MKIV | bluetooth TCU | BM53 w/ AUX input | video module w/ AV input & backup cam | oem sirius xm | xenon | shades | PDC | rain sensor | BMW DWS TPMS | lighted door handles | front seat heaters | heated steering wheel | euro rear fog lights | ski pass | folding mirrors
I have the new bolt, thanks! Will be another adventure to torque it properly but first I need to get there. I'm not sure what the factory tool holds against. The handle looks a bit curved on the pictures, will see when getting it.
With all these tools my 7 year old girl should be able to get it out, right?
It will bolt around the center hub bolt and then you use the frame rail to brace against. There are a lot of write-ups here on how to accomplish this entire task. I've noticed a few of your assumptions and unfortunately, they have been incorrect and have actually caused irreparable damage. Look for these different posts and follow their experience so you don't end up with a giant paperweight in the end.
'01 740i Sport MKIV, Quad Brake Lights, OEM Bi-Xenon retrofit, LED Angel Eyes, HID Fogs, LED Plate Lights, Dinan 7 certification, BM53 radio, OEM Sirius, Aux Input, TCU Bluetooth, Intravee II, iPod, Strong Strut, Dinan Struts, Springs, Camber Plates, Intake, MAF, CAI, Exhaust and Throttle Body
'99 318ti Titanium Silver '97 318ti Boston Green; '96 318ti Alaska Blue (sold); '08 X5 4.8i Titanium Silver (sold); '13 X5 3.5i Black Sapphire Metallic (sold)
'84 633csi Black (sold); '88 325iC Black (sold); '97 740iL Black(sold); '01 740iS Black(sold); '97 318ti Alpine White (sold)
I guess the issue is with this particular task that all the TCG DIYs were using the back pin to lock the engine. Now that I understand the torque involved it really seems risky, though probably works 80% of the cases. Even the one from Pelican Parts, what I would assume was put together by somebody doing this for the living is using the pin method:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...es_Removal.htm
(Figure 17 & 21)
The lesson is to follow TIS and this forum!
I'm really thankful for all the great tips from you guys, likely saved me from some serious trouble. I have never worked on an engine this complex, used to do a lot of work on Yamaha & SeaDoo engines (riding PWCs as a hobby). Here the intake manifold is bigger than a whole Yamaha engine! But at least no saltwater issues
Last edited by georgebest; 02-25-2018 at 12:03 PM.
Say if I managed to remove the "Jesus bolt", do I need a puller to remove the flange or it just comes off? Like a wheel hub puller or similar. Thanks!
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