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Thread: Vibration persist after replacing engine and transmission mounts

  1. #1
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    Vibration persist after replacing engine and transmission mounts

    As title says, I have replaced both engine and transmission mounts but still have a quite strong vibration when car is stationary and gear is in D. Stronger when the engine is cold.
    What else can cause this? The old mounts were all shot and it had improved since but still annoying.
    Anything else I can replace?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    Exhaust hangers?
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  3. #3
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    If all is fine on park I am betting tranny. Transmission fluid needs changing? Or that pesky little valve needs to be replaced

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/112317082443?ul_noapp=true

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by clarkitect View Post
    Exhaust hangers?
    Interesting idea! Checking.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by chucknorium View Post
    If all is fine on park I am betting tranny. Transmission fluid needs changing? Or that pesky little valve needs to be replaced

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/112317082443?ul_noapp=true
    Transimission fluid was replaced recently. Could that valve causing vibration?

  5. #5
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    I thought that valve was only an issue on older models. But I’m no expert.
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  6. #6
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    I’ve got the same problem on the New one. This pressure regulator thing is new to me. I was thinking it was due to mounts too. Have you noticed if turning the wheel affects the vibration or rumbling sound at all?


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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by clarkitect View Post
    I thought that valve was only an issue on older models. But I’m no expert.
    That's what I heard as well. Also, not mentioning anything about vibration on their webpage "Addresses Runaway Pressure, Harsh Shifts, Kick-Down Bang, Drum Breakage. Improves and restores correct drivability with added durability." http://www.transgo.com/products.php?...product_id=275
    Probably skipping this one.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by clarkitect View Post
    I thought that valve was only an issue on older models. But I’m no expert.

    I am no expert either Its not expensive and easy to do and on other makes and models using same transmission (even after e38 was no longer in production) had issues with this valve. I consider this a maintenace item which should be changed during every oil chagne in tranny. And aslo who did the fluid change? What is the level? Was it flushed or just pan was dropped?


    If ALL is fine on park (no vibration) than I would look at transmission closely first. Torque converter can also be on the way out which gives similar symptoms. Power steeering pump would cause vibrations even on park or at least something would change when turning the wheels to extreme position.
    Last edited by chucknorium; 02-01-2018 at 11:22 AM.

  9. #9
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    Do you have a misfire? Sounds like you could have a problem with one cylinder. Maybe a weak coil or injector.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by racer2086 View Post
    Do you have a misfire? Sounds like you could have a problem with one cylinder. Maybe a weak coil or injector.
    I have, likely Vanos solenoid issue, getting a new one today.
    How do you make a million dollar? You start with 5 million and buy an E38

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by racer2086 View Post
    Do you have a misfire? Sounds like you could have a problem with one cylinder. Maybe a weak coil or injector.
    Funny you say that. I am having the same issue and I also had the coil pack on cylinder #8 go at the same time. I thought they were connected, but the issue is not gone after I changed the coil pack.


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    Quote Originally Posted by armiller1 View Post
    Funny you say that. I am having the same issue and I also had the coil pack on cylinder #8 go at the same time. I thought they were connected, but the issue is not gone after I changed the coil pack.


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    I start to think this all catalyst related, really weird error codes suddenly all over the place.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by georgebest View Post
    I start to think this all catalyst related, really weird error codes suddenly all over the place.
    Do you have a flashing SES light? Then racer might be right. Reset those codes and see what comes back. If you get misfire codes, then see if one cylinder is specified.


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  14. #14
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    Only the "normal" SES light.
    Replaced vanos solenoid and camshaft position sensor in 1 and now getting this:

    21/01 - Function, inlet-camshaft control, bank 1
    1B/00 - Multiplicat. mixture adaptation, bank 2, control limit reached
    D2/00 - Signal, knock sensor 1
    1D/01 - Additive mixture adaptation, bank 2, control limit reached

    I doubt the knock sensor just died suddenly. And now the adaptation errors back on bank 2.

  15. #15
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    what about your driveshaft guido and center mount

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by E30theBronx View Post
    what about your driveshaft guido and center mount
    It's an engine issue for sure. Running suddenly really rough and giving these error codes.

  17. #17
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    Anybody know how to test if your catalytic converters causing the issue? Just disconnecting the pipe and run the engine?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by georgebest View Post
    ........still have a quite strong vibration.... ....Stronger when the engine is cold.

    Anything else I can replace?
    A Long Shot:

    Throttle body and Intake manifold cover gaskets. Gaskets get hard with age and eventually have air gaps that get larger when cold
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryunk View Post
    A Long Shot:

    Throttle body and Intake manifold cover gaskets. Gaskets get hard with age and eventually have air gaps that get larger when cold
    I'm doing a lot of "long shot" repairs lately

    I'll be doing the valley pan gasket replacement when the weather gets a bit better and every gasket and hose in the way will get replaced. Have a long list already. I still suspect this is caused by the cats, cause not happening always and errors are all over the place. Will be replacing with Magnaflow, it's due anyway and was only like $190 for both cats + labor.
    Last edited by georgebest; 02-04-2018 at 01:02 PM.

  20. #20
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    before you go throwing cats on there, do some more diagnostics...

    Is the adaptation lean or rich? That could indicate a vacuum leak (maybe intake leak on a particular side or cylinder) or it could be a stuck injector (open) or a non-functional injector (no gas). That will cause all kinds of O2 issues and the car will struggle to get the mix right. It will lean out or richen up one bank as the O2 indicates, although the off reading could be from something else. So you have to be sure what you are looking at with those codes. There can be underlying problems leading to the adaptation issues.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by racer2086 View Post
    before you go throwing cats on there, do some more diagnostics...

    Is the adaptation lean or rich? That could indicate a vacuum leak (maybe intake leak on a particular side or cylinder) or it could be a stuck injector (open) or a non-functional injector (no gas). That will cause all kinds of O2 issues and the car will struggle to get the mix right. It will lean out or richen up one bank as the O2 indicates, although the off reading could be from something else. So you have to be sure what you are looking at with those codes. There can be underlying problems leading to the adaptation issues.
    How do I know if lean or rich?
    I'm sure you are right, there is an underlying issue here somewhere, hence the codes changing. What is also strange that it drives without codes for a while, no vibration at all and then it suddenly starts doing it at next start. That's why I'm guessing that something moving causing it like a broken cat's internals moving and blocking fumes sometimes. I'm very far from being sure tho Figured I will do the repairs what I wanted to do anyway (like camshaft sensors and cats) and see if issue remains.
    How do you check an injector?

    Btw, this is what INPA shows when the engine running rough. No wonder it's vibrating, but the Vanos angles seems fine at least.

    vanos1.PNG

    rpms.PNG
    Any ideas would be highly appreciated of course!

  22. #22
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    The highest numbers are all showing on your left bank - cylinders 1, 3, 5 and 7. You may have a failing cat converter on that bank, or a bad intake manifold leak. Both are fairly easy to test; for the cat converter, you can just unscrew the pre-cat oxygen sensor (closest to the engine, in front of the cat) from that side and run the engine with it removed, but still connected electrically. If it runs good / better, it's a solid bet that cat is falling apart and blocking up, which can happen randomly depending how the internals settle during driving.

    For the intake manifold, you could just tear into it and replace it all anyway as the typical peace of mind preventative bit of maintenance we all do, or you could get a can of carby cleaner and with the engine running, spray a little around where the intake manifold mates to the block on bank 1 - a change in RPM's while doing so indicates leaks at the gaskets. From those numbers I don't see any immediately obvious issues with your VANOS. Did you take any pictures of the analog values showing adaptation mixtures?

    You may consider also swapping the cylinder 1 coil over with the better working cylinder 2 coil, and see if that big roughness discrepancy follows. But honestly if it IS cat converter related, the roughness readings are going to change sporadically depending on how bad it's doing any given day, so it's not an exact science.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by georgebest View Post
    How do I know if lean or rich?
    I'm sure you are right, there is an underlying issue here somewhere, hence the codes changing. What is also strange that it drives without codes for a while, no vibration at all and then it suddenly starts doing it at next start. That's why I'm guessing that something moving causing it like a broken cat's internals moving and blocking fumes sometimes. I'm very far from being sure tho Figured I will do the repairs what I wanted to do anyway (like camshaft sensors and cats) and see if issue remains.
    How do you check an injector?

    Btw, this is what INPA shows when the engine running rough. No wonder it's vibrating, but the Vanos angles seems fine at least.

    vanos1.PNG

    rpms.PNG
    Any ideas would be highly appreciated of course!
    BTW when this happening white/gray smoke comes out from the exhaust, way more than what is normal. When engine warms up smoke goes back to normal.

  24. #24
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    White/Grey smoke could be oil, carbon, or catalytic material cooking off potentially. By any chance could you describe what the smoke smells like? Was it sweet, powdery, chalky etc. It's possible there are multiple issues at play here but let's rule things out one at a time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sobek View Post
    White/Grey smoke could be oil, carbon, or catalytic material cooking off potentially. By any chance could you describe what the smoke smells like? Was it sweet, powdery, chalky etc. It's possible there are multiple issues at play here but let's rule things out one at a time.
    I would go with "powdery" , like gun powder probably.

    Did a simple test, removed the MAF (brand new Bosch) while the engine running.

    With MAF on:

    inpa.PNG
    Without MAF:
    INPA2.PNG
    Rougness almost disappeared entirely when MAF was disconnected, came back a few minutes later tho. But clearly made a huge difference.
    Now thinking about it, all these issues started when I put in this Bosch MAF. I had the "mixture" error previously and couldnt find any leaks so figured trying a new MAF. Not sure if related of course.

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