Won most unlucky E60 driver. Fuel pump made EVERYTHING break. HELP ME. PLZ!

[FosterCB]

BMW E60 55 plate 520D - Remapped, EGR delete, DPF gutted

So quick run through of whats happened. I was just about to sell my car (I have changed my mind now, im keeping her even though she hates me)

- started getting low voltage warnings
- got a new battery (garage didnt reset it to car)
- kept getting battery warnings, everything resetting (however car drove perfect)
- (not really to do with the problem just so upsetting) 2 Romanians guys come to look at the car to buy, act really dodgy overly inspect the car and all of sudden my coolant tank is fully of oil and they insist car is worthless and they can take it away for £500... (Obviously tell them where to go)
- First time driving the car after they have done this, I get about 100m car suddenly bings, every warning light under the sun appears, DSC FAILURE, DBC FAILURE. ABS FAILURE PLEASE DRIVE MODERATELY. Car instantly cuts out and doesnt start.
- Tow to a garage, my fuel pump had blown the fuse.
- Change the fuse, car starts, acts a little rough and all of a sudden, I have a DBC failure, trouble connecting my bmw diagnostic tool c110 sometimes was getting an error saying cant connect.
- Mechanical electrician or something looks at it, recons it may be the dials and dashboard and I should send it away...
- When my C110 could connect I got these error messages...
- 4C13 Status DSC 19E
- 4C23 Torque DSC B6
- 4C28 speed1a0
- 49F3 DDE: message(speed CE)
- 4992 DDE: message(instrument cluster1B4)
- 4993 DDE: message(instrument cluster1B4)
- 4C18 terminal 1 5130
- Also the battery has been reset to the car, and I got a message with the ignition on saying "Low battery Charge"

(I've also got heated fuel filter and glow plug warnings but Ive had those for the 4 years I've owned the car lol)

My question is... I dont want to send off the instrument panel as I dont think thats the problem, I think its to do with either a short somewhere or maybe another fuse blown. I still need to get a new fuel pump and sort out the oil in my coolant, but I want to get these errors cleared/fixed before doing that and finding I need to spend another ££££ to get this fixed.
Pleaseeeee someone help!!! What would you do? What should I try next?

I have read as many threads as I can but I seem to have a rather unique issue, so really dont know where to start!!

[jtbgonesailing]

Start by charging the battery by using the charging terminal under the hood, bonnet to you. Don't charge the car on the battery directly as there are electronics built into the negative battery terminal, IBS- intelligent battery sensor. With a fully charged battery, clear all the error codes, then start and run the car. Pull your error codes and report back your findings.

[FosterCB]

Start by charging the battery by using the charging terminal under the hood, bonnet to you. Don't charge the car on the battery directly as there are electronics built into the negative battery terminal, IBS- intelligent battery sensor. With a fully charged battery, clear all the error codes, then start and run the car. Pull your error codes and report back your findings.

Thanks for your quick response! I will try this, however the battery actually works fine? Just get a message on the dash saying it needs charging. None of the error messages in the system seem to be about the battery.

[jtbgonesailing]

It's a new battery that was installed and that doesn't mean that it was fully charged when it was installed. Charge it overnight at a nice low amperage setting, something like 3 to 5 amp setting on the charger. This way you will have a topped of battery. These cars are energy hogs to say the least. My 05 530i has 33 modules, read computers, drawing power. These cars have to have a stable power supply or they start doing all sorts of weird things through the systems.

[FosterCB]

It's a new battery that was installed and that doesn't mean that it was fully charged when it was installed. Charge it overnight at a nice low amperage setting, something like 3 to 5 amp setting on the charger. This way you will have a topped of battery. These cars are energy hogs to say the least. My 05 530i has 33 modules, read computers, drawing power. These cars have to have a stable power supply or they start doing all sorts of weird things through the systems.

OK I dont have a battery charger, I will get one and do this. Would taking it on a long drive also charge up the battery if this is the case?

In the mean time, what are the other checks I should do? Voltage maybe? Its a really strange problem, every minute or so the speedo dips in and out but then acts fine. When reversing the reverse sensor beeps go loud and then quiet but continue to work... I feel like theres obvious checks to do, I just dont know what they are Any fuses I should check, or just all of them?!

[FosterCB]

I checked the iDrive, and noticed it says;

DSC failure!
DBC Failure!
Start assistant Failure!

Does that help?

[FosterCB]

I charged the battery and nothing changed. However I checked the voltage and its high, 15v when running and 13v off, although when I got a free check at quick fit I got 12.7v with the car off.

I still have the above faults, I forgot to mention if the radio is on I get spikes in the sound like every 20 seconds it raises the volume for a split second. Also the speedo drops out and back again. Im guessing its some sort of regulator?! Any help...

[jtbgonesailing]

How many miles on the car? Sounds like the voltage regulator, in the alternator, may be on the way out.

[FosterCB]

How many miles on the car? Sounds like the voltage regulator, in the alternator, may be on the way out.

166k. So I think so too, Would I replace the whole alternator or try to get a new voltage regulator? Also... Once replaced how would I get rid of the errors? Sorry for all the questions, I am just worried these errors are never ending!

[jtbgonesailing]

In my case I just replaced the regulator as there was no play or noise from the bearings at 120k miles, as preventative maintance. The 2 brushes on the regulator are a wear item. At 166k Miles, WOW, would have expected failure earlier. Here in the states, most feedback has "rebuilt and remanufactured" units as not providing a serviceable product, with high failure rate. I would opt for either a new alternator or regulator, be it Bosch or Valeo, depending on your OEM fitment.

Use REALOEM.com to determine the BMW part number for both the alternator and regulator then google OEM numbers for supplier part numbers. I would use only OEM parts, be it Bosch or Valeo, depending on your fitment.

Heres a link to a BMW technical services document for working on BMW's. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/

Clear your codes, with your code reader, after you complete the job, before you start the car and with any luck you will be good to go.

Good luck and report back.

[FosterCB]

In my case I just replaced the regulator as there was no play or noise from the bearings at 120k miles, as preventative maintance. The 2 brushes on the regulator are a wear item. At 166k Miles, WOW, would have expected failure earlier. Here in the states, most feedback has "rebuilt and remanufactured" units as not providing a serviceable product, with high failure rate. I would opt for either a new alternator or regulator, be it Bosch or Valeo, depending on your OEM fitment.

Use REALOEM.com to determine the BMW part number for both the alternator and regulator then google OEM numbers for supplier part numbers. I would use only OEM parts, be it Bosch or Valeo, depending on your fitment.

Heres a link to a BMW technical services document for working on BMW's. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/

Clear your codes, with your code reader, after you complete the job, before you start the car and with any luck you will be good to go.

Good luck and report back.

My car went in for a recall with BMW I paid for a diagnoses which they were so useless with and did nothing. I got back a page of error codes and I had given up on it. I started thinking more about it, and I think I have diagnosed it, but I would love someone to tell me I am right/wrong. so here goes:

I got warnings on the idrive saying low voltage - I now presume due to a bad alternator regulator
I took it to the garage, he looked at the battery and saw it was the complete wrong battery (really small)
he replaced it, but didnt register it to the car, this made strange things happen.
My fuel pump fuse blew - maybe something to do with the new big battery?
I tow to the garage, replace fuse
Now I get DBC DBS etc codes, - from looking now, it looks as if I also have a bad wheel sensor???

Sooo. If I now fix my alternator, fix my speed sensor... I should be sweet right?! Or atleast have ruled out the 2 most common things?
Is there a way of diagnosing which speed sensor using C110 scanner? Or would this be done manually, I am not confident I could do that.

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The above codes are stored on my car, glow plug related and heated fuel filter codes have always been there since I have had it 4 years.

[ricado lagos]

i had some error messages on the i drive, dsc failure, dpf light was on and the differential light was on. i took it to different garages with no avail, i did not use the car for a while. i disconnected the battery and connected it it back, all the error messages disappeared, try that it may help, that saved lots of money.

.

I checked the iDrive, and noticed it says;

DSC failure!
DBC Failure!
Start assistant Failure!

Does that help?