Wow, how am I just now learning about the pinned pedal trick. going to try that this weekend
I'm having some difficulty imagining what the mechanism for this being effective could possibly be. Note that the source recommendation is from a Honda S2000 list. Could be some peculiarity of the S2K braking system?
OTOH it's free and it can't hurt. But if anyone suggests special crystals to help realign the chakras of my brakes I'm signing out.
Neil
I think it’s essentially reverse bleeding — causes air to go up into the reservoir.
I was lucky that I never had to do this, but a local friend with an E36M said he was aware of one case where swapping pumps cured the problem in another car.
In other news:
Wanted to take a moment and share some of the work on the adapter piece.
Values have been scrubbed from the spec sheet for intellectual property reasons.
We're reaching out to machine shops this week for quotes. Making some progress for sure. Placed the order for materials today.
Still trying to decide on a reasonable price point for this kit, not really sure what's fair. We're not looking to gouge the community, but the two of us have spent quite a bit of time and our own money on this.
:goodluck:
Fair enough, hahaha
^ same for me.
I also replaced the MC/Booster with brand new OEM parts, new lines, rebuilt calipers and still have to left foot tap my brake pedal prior to any braking zone, after that the pedal is great. I sourced a low mileage 95 ABS pump and will swap that this winter along with adding the S54 sucking jet pump / vac assist thing in between the air rail / booster. Hopefully that does it as nothing left to replace.
Neil and Sam, not the response I was looking for
I'm currently pinning the brake pedal down, going to leave it like that for longer than 24 hrs. Will report back after I get to drive to car, which will be this weekend. Maybe I might as well just leave it like that for the entire week until I'm able to drive it...
My pedal feels the same afterwards but it didn't feel bad to begin with. I cycle my ABS often though using my car at autocross and changed my fluid yearly so maybe I didn't need to do anything to begin with.
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Hard lines and flare nuts came in last weekend.
Jayjay - care to elaborate how "much" better did it improve for you?
Sorry to hear that Neil
Update on my end - so I had my brake pedal pinned down for about 5 days straight. Drove it last night, didn't really brake super hard or anything. I'll have to say - my pedal feel was maybe only "slightly" better than before. Very very marginal. Overall, I thought it would make the pedal very stiff - it did not
My pedal feel has improved since doing the front Porsche BBK conversion though.
Golgo13 - any ETA estimates on when your kit will be available for sale?
^ sounds good man, thanks for the update
Here's a test of the jig with actual hardline and a comparison vs the coat-hanger line we used for fitment on my car.
Still waiting on a couple more things with regards to the adapter and then the digital waiver before we start making these kits available.
Still need to finalize the install instructions as well.
Been following this thread but noticed my ABS does NOT have that nipple on it, is it only certain years?
It looked like this bleeder is only on the '96-'99 E36 M3s.
Digging a little deeper, it looks like the pump at the very least is specific to the '96+ E36M, but that may or may not be related to the fact that it doesn't have a hardline at that location but has a bleed nipple instead. It could be due to the pump having different specifications due to needs of the brake system. Who knows?
That shows it's S52, which as we know is OBDII '96+ cars.
Last edited by golgo13; 11-06-2018 at 06:06 PM.
If a single tap of the brake pedal on a straight after cornering returns a stiff pedal, then it's possible your wheel bearings are worn. This symptom is more apparent when using fixed calipers but I suppose it's possible on sliding calipers as well. What could be happening is your wheel bearing/hub/rotor deflection during cornering is pushing one of the pads in. This effect is recovered during a single tap of the brake pedal on a straight prior to the next braking zone. I'm not saying this is happening to you, but this is something that can happen.
I have an S2000 and I've followed that thread for a while now. There are many theories but one that seems to make most sense to me is that by pinning the pedal overnight, you are 'emulsifying' the air to be evenly distributed across all of the brake fluid so there aren't any 'air pockets'. But the next time you heat this fluid up, the air will separate and create air pockets. So, if you do notice a stiffer pedal after pinning the pedal, you should bleed out all of the existing fluid. I believe gravity bleeding works great for this once you know there aren't any 'large air pockets'. My suggestion is to keep pinning the brake pedal (and subsequently bleeding fluid) until it no longer helps.
If you still think there is significant amount of air, then the ABS bleed nipple this thread is about might be the only other option left.
Last edited by mrf; 11-07-2018 at 09:18 PM.
Interesting. Does anyone know what that thingamajig is on the 96+ 328i that connects to the ABS module via lines 14>18>20?
Here's my read of that parts diagram. Someone fact check me.
ABS Module I/O 96+ 328i 96+ M3 Front Input 3 6 Rear Input 4 5 Front Left Output 5 8 Front Right Output 6 9 Rear Left Output 11 13 Rear Right Output 12 14 Thingamajig 14>18>20 N/A (Bleed Nipple)
Last edited by SamGrant951; 11-08-2018 at 10:11 AM.
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