VC gaskets did not fix the oil leak and oil smell, so I went in a bit deeper and replaced the upper TC gaskets and new breather tube. Once I was into this project, I decided on replacing more parts, such as the CCV, tensioner, belts, etc. see pic. I couldn't wait for the order time for the BMW tool to press down the upper TC so I fabricated a few pieces of oak that seem to do the job nicely, see pic.
Working on this 540i engine has got me thinking that it must get hotter in the engine bay area than the 740i. The plastic pieces in the engine bay area seem to be more brittle and broke easier than on the 740i. Also the 540i hood paint was deteriorating in the inner area of the hood right over the engine, I speculate that the cause is heat related from the engine bay. Any knowledge of this? or just me?
I have more parts on order - plastic replacement parts.
IMG_1406.jpgIMG_1417.jpgIMG_1401.jpg
Last edited by ryunk; 01-26-2018 at 02:38 AM.
2001 BMW 740i - Anthracite Gray - Style 32 Wheels --------- 2004 BMW 330i - Silver Grey Metallic
Convenience Pkg - Cold Weather Pkg - PDC ------------------- Sport Package - Auto - Mroof - Hseats
In deed the plastic stuff gets brittle some folks remov all the engine covers and coil PAC covers to let the heat out. I have an 525, I like how the covers look so I vented them also I removed the middle seal at the fire wall that would seal the back of the hood, now the heat has some where to go. When replacing the valve covers on the v8 I would always recommend doing the upper timing overs also.
I need to replace my VCG also but I've been waiting for my chain guides to fail so I can do all the gaskets "while I'm in there". If they don't fail soon (155,000 miles and counting), I may have to preemptively do the work.
I do not believe in a risk free society where the thrill of living is traded for the safety of existence. Nick Ienatsch
The law does NOT determine "right" from "wrong". They are unrelated.
If you put cheap parts on your car, you will soon have a cheap parts car.
<== Steptronic Sealbeach740
2000 740i sport: 74k Green/Tan chrome MPars, clear corners, quad brake lights, AIC hi-beams, Hoen fogs, 16x9 screen, MKIV, TFT LCD screen in back, license plate backup camera with "on demand" switch, iPod audio/video (CDC/iPod audio switching, iPod video on 16x9 screen), Basslink, gauge rings, ///M pedals, switched steptronic +/- shifting mode, E46 paddle shifter steering wheel, Dinan engine & tranny software upgrade, DDEs controlled via Euro fog light switch, painted calipers with "BMW" lettering, windows up/sunroof close via remote.
2003 540i sport: 81k, Sterling grey/grey, MKIV Nav, PDC & CWP - Added license plate backup camera with "on demand" switch, paddle shift steering wheel, windows up/sunroof close via remote, Akebono's, painted calipers with "BMW" lettering, quad brake lights, iPod audio via AUX mode/video via 16x9 screen, BMW TV tuner, ///M pedals & gauge rings.
I'm in the same boat. ~170k miles on a 540iT. PO did VCGs at least once, but the engine has lots of leaks. I did the vanos solenoid flanges which helped some, but still a decent puddle. Consumption is ~1qt/2000 miles (seems to all be due to leaks). Engine runs perfectly and has no abnormal noises.
I was under the impression TCG failure gave some warning and is generally not a timing belt-like catastrophic failure?
I know a TCG job is in my future, and one cannot predict the future. I generally am in the if it ain't broke, don't fix it camp. Timing Belt jobs I consider normal maintenance but I regarded the TCG job as a repair.
How much risk is there if I wait for symptoms? The 540iT is now sharing duty as my 50% commuter (~7 miles each way of mild city cruising split with my 1986 Audi 4000 quattro) and our road trip car (my wife's car is an e-Golf which does not travel far). In other words, it would be very likely the car would be away from home if/when the dreaded noises begin. I do have AAA with 200 mile towing (my most important road trip tools, laptop with INPA, cell phone and AAA card).
1999 540 Auto with Eaton M112 supercharger
Airlift 3H/P management, M5 steering box, M5 LSD, Eibach/Dinan front and rear anti roll bars, PM Modifich door boards, 4 Eton 6.5s, Sound Magus VS3500.1, 2 x 10" Kove audio subs, Alpine ICS X7 Headunit, 19" BBS Hammer Sports RT245/RT246, Muffler delete, electric coolant fan.
There is a Profile Gasket tool - part# 83300493364, designed to compress the Upper Timing Covers. Do a search on this part number to find sources.
Here is a couple PDF files with procedures to show how the tools are used.
vanos-timing-case-cover-left.pdfvanos-timing-case-cover-right.pdf
I did a search but the part was only available from a few suppliers and ship dates were 2 weeks out.
There are other methods to compress the TC cover also, such as a youtube video, link below.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=op7LDHyeVjw
2001 BMW 740i - Anthracite Gray - Style 32 Wheels --------- 2004 BMW 330i - Silver Grey Metallic
Convenience Pkg - Cold Weather Pkg - PDC ------------------- Sport Package - Auto - Mroof - Hseats
Kenny I love a special tool as much as the next guy (gal? TWSS...) but I'd say that tool's not worth the bother.
Most guys just use the valve covers themselves with the gasket out and a couple of extra spacer washers on the nuts so that they will push it down far enough. Works fine. Anything like ryunk's trick works too. One could easily make a homebrew tool too by tracing the front of a valve cover onto some steel plate and then cutting it out to mock up something like the factory tool.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
If your engine is gushing oil down the front its likely the upper timing covers (UTC's). They do that. You could easily fix that without doing the TCG's, however, there's plenty of overlap so... You're not quite 'half way there' but you're maybe 30% of the way there at any rate, once the UTC's are off.
No mostly the guides aren't a castrophic failure, and for the most part even clattering can-of-marbles sounding blown-out guide motors recover OK, but it ain't good for it to get to that point, needless to say.
Re: your TCG's, very hard to say. Despite what the ignorant will say, some cars go to 200k and beyond on stock guides. Others crap them out before 150k. My theory is the driver is temp-cycles, perhaps with an added coefficient of quality and frequency of oil changes. If your car saw a lot of temp extremes (hot, cold, or both...) over its life, more likely to be earlier. Crappy OCI's and cheap oil? Earlier. What do you know about your cars life and care?
The only real pre-noise early detection method is to drop the lower oil pan and look for shards of plastic. You'll always get some bits showing up in there before they give up the ghost. The bigger the shards, the more you should worry.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
Thank you for the reply geargrinder. Pretty much confirms what I thought and had planned.
This car lived in Pebble Beach which is moderate climate and was well maintained. Maybe bought a little time, hard to say.
I will drop the oil pan periodically (maybe every other oil change on 5k OCIs?).
Maybe drop the oil pan soon and see what you see. But after 2-3 more you'll be closing in on 200k and really in "oughta do it regardless" territory... Plus its the time to refresh VANOS seals which buys you some better performance enjoyment.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
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