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Thread: Help Rajicase Pick A New Car!

  1. #1
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    Help Rajicase Pick A New Car!

    Rajicase is finally moving up in the world. Looking for a new(ish) car to buy in the $10k range.
    Looking for a DD, something that can tow the M3, be RELIABLE and preferably 4x4. SUV/Truck (truck preferred)

    What suggestions yall got for me?

    (I know this isn't really FI related, but I trust you guys!)
    Also, itll help me build and do race car stuff with the M3, so related somewhat.
    Last edited by rajicase; 01-21-2018 at 05:52 PM.

  2. #2
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    I'd just buy a nice not beat on chevy.

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  3. #3
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    milKt is offline ßMW///MµrÐêr§þðr†
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    Yup

    just don't buy a Dodge.
    You'll be good.

  4. #4
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    If you can find a 2500 Silverado, you get the 4l80 trans and larger rear end. Good for towing and eventual boots! A la sloppy mechanics style.
    Last edited by s13flyboy; 01-21-2018 at 06:19 PM.

  5. #5
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    Thought I'd get flamed for that but I have cummins and super city's come in broken down all the time rarely a chevy. If I was to get a baylee I'm the 10k range it be an early 2000s 2500.

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  6. #6
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    Thought I'd get flamed for that but I have cummins and super dutys come in broken down all the time rarely a chevy. If I was to get a hauler In the 10k range itd be an early 2000s 2500.

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  7. #7
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    Another turbo E36 over modded enough that the owner has to drive a truck instead . . .

  8. #8
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    You can always un-mod to make more tolerable Phil. Get that stupid, shaky DSS driveshaft out of there and do a couple HPDEs. Your car can be fun again.
    '97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.

  9. #9
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    I was thinking about doing HPDE this year, but maybe with the 08M3 rather than the 99M3. And yes, I am thinking about a 6 speed and different DS on the 99M3.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
    Another turbo E36 over modded enough that the owner has to drive a truck instead . . .
    Hey i like my truck

  11. #11
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    Can't go wrong with a chevy

  12. #12
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    All trucks have their own issues. None is better then the other. I deal with these POS's on a daily basis. Where your not dealing with rusted stuff where you live , buy whatever you want.
    But, if it was me I'd go for a 1500 if you can tow what you need. Parts pricing and dealing with 2500's are much more of a pain. If you can get by with a 1500 go that route. I think Dodge may have the highest towing capacity but unsure.

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  13. #13
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    Trucks are expensive where I live. Your gonna have to grab older model 1500 or equiv for 10k.

    I love my 2011 1500 though, pulls just about anything with ease. Camper, Boat, tow dolly, etc.

    I wouldn't go ford, there difficult to work on. Can't go wrong with a SBC chevy, simplicity.

    You can also grab the trailblazer for cheap now as well. I had one for awhile, vortec V6 and it would pull a boat and everything pretty nicely. Would have no problem pulling your car.

    I think you can grab one for like 5k ?
    Last edited by 328iFun; 01-22-2018 at 08:48 AM.

  14. #14
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    Trailblazer SS. If you are going to drive a truck at least get a fun one.

  15. #15
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    the early 2000s Chevy 1500HD are pretty nice for what they are. Not really newer but nice ones are still easily in that price range

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
    Another turbo E36 over modded enough that the owner has to drive a truck instead . . .
    Pretty sure I drive my M3 more than just about anyone in this sub-section;
    Put at least 25k miles on it over the past 2 years. Granted it has become a little less street friendly, but that is what I am building it for. Its ultimately, at this point, a car that I want to be able to go out and race on weekends and that's about it. If I drive it a few days a week, that's bonus to me. That's icing. I haven't over modded my car, in fact, its still under modded IMO. Another 1-200whp and itd really be king of the streets around here LOL.

    I like the 1500 idea. Been looking around, seems like I can get some decent ones below my price range.
    Also like civic si's, 06-09 models. Obviously couldn't tow with it, but I have always thought those cars are the perfect DD.

  17. #17
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    Trailblazer SS is a solid setup. 400hp so you can race mustangs on the way to work too. I'd get a RWD one from down south so you don't have to deal with their AWD problems. They aren't setup as simply as the 1500 chevy, which would be my #2 choice. Right in your price range. I'd stay clear of 2500s or 250s, save yourself the fuel.

    +1 on the Honda. Only downside I see is those are probably more mod friendly than our cars.. and it'll be non-street worthy in a couple years too lol
    Last edited by SCapelo; 01-22-2018 at 01:30 PM.
    97 Turbo 3.2L M3 - Cutring / ARP - RSI Top Mount - Gt4088r - ID1300 - Tial WG - 22RPD Tuned - 93 Octane - 3.5" Stainless

  18. #18
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    I liked the TB. Was a comfortable ride. They have there quirks though just like any older vehicle with some mileage.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by SCapelo View Post
    . Only downside I see is those are probably more mod friendly than our cars.. and it'll be non-street worthy in a couple years too lol
    True, I would have to have some major self control or it too would have a big turbo strapped to it in a few years..

  20. #20
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    I like Nissan titans for that price range because they are a bit smaller than full size trucks and could probably tow what you need. I personally drive a 99 Tacoma, (but have no need for towing) because it fits in my garage (barely), and it's 4x4 + 5sp manual. The taco is reliable, but as mentioned above, surely will have rust issues before too long.
    My advice, just make sure you like the truck and it's fun to drive in its own way if it's going to be a DD.
    '97 BMW M3/4/5, Cosmos Black.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by rajicase View Post
    Pretty sure I drive my M3 more than just about anyone in this sub-section;
    Put at least 25k miles on it over the past 2 years. Granted it has become a little less street friendly, but that is what I am building it for. Its ultimately, at this point, a car that I want to be able to go out and race on weekends and that's about it.
    My E36 has been boosted for 80k miles and I am sure there are people here who have driven their cars more. I keep it reasonably street friendly since I like driving it. I don’t want to drive a car every day that I don’t enjoy driving, unless I have no other choice.

  22. #22
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    I have about 115,000 boosted miles on mine between the supercharger and three turbos.

  23. #23
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    Just say no to Honda, please, please don't do this. Tahoe's are pretty nice, and you can pull with them too. They don't have a 2500 tahoe though. Avalanches are like a cross breed and they come in 2500. Gl, I hate car shopping.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mklock View Post
    Just say no to Honda, please, please don't do this. Tahoe's are pretty nice, and you can pull with them too. They don't have a 2500 tahoe though. Avalanches are like a cross breed and they come in 2500. Gl, I hate car shopping.
    LOL why the Honda hate??

  25. #25
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    Because the first one I had died miserably. Lost interest after that, plenty of other options. I'd go Nissan or Toyota before Honda now. I like Audi too, great winter beasts.

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