Again, note that I said "If you're sure that the tensioner is noisy, return it." Absolutely, Autozone selld crap parts....however, IF the noise is identical, after swapping those parts, there's a VERY strong possibility that you haven't yet identified the problem.
You've spent SO much money, and SO much time, chasing this issue, that I really have to advise you have a BMW pro look at the car. It's possible that his experience might identify the sound instantly, or after a few minutes with a stethoscope. Please know that when I listen to a noise which I can't quite swear to, I call another tech over to listen, too. Four ears are better than two.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
I will try the other tensioner first. But yes the sound was still identical. Im trying not to spend alot of money at a dealer but i may have to ill try the other tensioner first and see what happens.
So true,
sometimes in our attempt to DIY, and save some money in the process,
a hard to pinpoint issue gets the best of all of us, due to a pro not actually being on site.
Sometimes, maybe rarely, a professional actually standing next to the vehicle,
can easily diagnose the problem, which can be difficult to achieve via internet.
,
I can recommend a superb shop - several actually in the KC area.
'95 325iS - auto to manual swap done!
Welp I changed out the tensioner with the one from fpceuro and the sound muffled a little but didn't go away. And the sound is now harder to pinpoint I guess it was just resonating threw that worn tensioner. I will put my car completely together and drive it 32miles to the closes dealer and hope it makes it and they can help me.
Took it to the dealer and it was diagnosed as the bolts to the flywheel need replaced.
This is one strange outcome for sure!
Noob44, I know it hasn't been mentioned,
but did you have transmission/clutch work done recently?
Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
This is one strange outcome for sure!
I definitely agree not what I expected.
And the car is an automatic. But other than me bolting up the new block to it 4xxx miles ago no work has been done to it. But I may have miss torqued one of the bolts; it is possible I spent a lot of late nights working on it.
- - - Updated - - -
Quote Originally Posted by stvsxm View Post
probably means a cracked flexplate which will make terrible noises.
I will check out the state of the flexplate while I'm in there and make sure it'd just a bolt and no cracks breaks or fractures.
Multi-Quote This Message
Well, I am glad the mystery noise seems to be solved for you,
hope all goes well, and it ends up to be an easy fix.
No....the flexplate IS the flywheel, on an automatic transmission. If the problem is indeed with your flexplate / flywheel, Steve's absolutely right, it's likely cracked. Now, it IS just possible that the bolts which hold the torque convertor to the flexplate are loose, and one has backed out, and is hitting something. This would be a REALLY good thing, IF you fix it immediately. This is the only possibility inside the bellhousing which does not involve removing the transmission.
Still, the cracked flexplate is the most likely fault, if the noise is inside the bellhousing.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Sorry when it comes to transmission I know a lot less I didn't know if their was a difference between the fly wheel and flex plate. I may remove the transmission just to be sure that everything is okay and it's just bolts like autohaus bmw said. I'll post my update when I fix it. Thank you you guys for all your help and bearing with me on this giant headache.
I wouldn't remove a transmission unless I had to..... and besides....to remove it, you're going to have to undo the torque convertor bolts anyway. Why not just rotate the engine one revolution by hand, while checking those bolts (usually 3, maybe 4), with a 17mm socket? If they're all tight, then on the second revolution of the engine, just go ahead and remove them. But if you find one loose, and the head of the bolt is scraped up....you've saved yourself a ton of work.....replace those bolts if that's the case.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Okay If I remember right it's only 3 bolts. And do I access that from under the car or do I have to pull the intake. I don't remember where you gain access through. Also do you know the proper torque spec and is it acceptable to use lock tight so I don't have this issue again?
This is done from under the car. The access port should be under the exhaust manifolds, but it MIGHT be at the very bottom of the bellhousing. Generally, there's a rubber cover to be pulled off.
Yes, you can use blue loctite If the bolts were actually tightened, they likely didn't come loose, and the flexplate is likely cracked. But maybe you forgot to turn the crank an extra ~90 degrees, and there were 4....or maybe one of the three just didn't get tightened.
Torque, I dunno, probably 30 or 40 Nm. No room for a torque wrench here anyway. Assuming you're using a standard length 3/8 drive ratchet, pull hard. Maybe someone else will look up the torque for you, I'm late for work, sorry.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
I have the appropriate flexplate/flywheel serving paper weight duty. Yours for the cost of shipping should you need it. PM if so.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
If they are not loose, do not tighten them. If the bolt heads are not damaged, loose torque convertor bolts are NOT your problem....
If indeed the noise is in the bellhousing, I need for you to understand that the cracked flexplate is the most likely cause....I am just playing "devil's advocate", and trying to prevent you from removing the trans!
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
I understand that and either way bolts or the flywheel I'll replace it. I'm to far in to walk away.
I have seen that, by your previous posts. We're all with you, you're being very scrupulous.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Well all the bolts are tight so I guess I'm stuck dropping the transmission to examine the flex plate.
After dropping the transmission the flex plate appears to be fine the bolts that go to the crankshaft came loose. Not the one that go to the torque converter.
Officially, these are replaced every time they are removed. You can reuse them; they are not torque-to-yeild bolt, but you must clean the old loctite off with a wire wheel, and apply new (blue) loctite, then torque these the the correct spec.
Be aware that if those bolts were loose enough to allow the flexplate to wobble, the flexplate is highly suspect now. I'd have to recommend replacing the bolts at this point, too, because they weren't tight, and may have undergone stress in an improper direction.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
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