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Thread: 2000 bmw 528i misbehaving again :(

  1. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
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    Missouri
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    107
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    2000 bmw 528i, 2004 bmw
    https://youtu.be/Wlx3af6RQ2M

    This is the play I have.

  2. #27
    Join Date
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    2000 bmw 528i, 2004 bmw
    Tomorrow I will put it back together with the new oil pump chain and see what happens.

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    London, United Kingdom
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    1,184
    My Cars
    E36 328is, E87 116i
    Make sure you use some good loctite and tighten the oil pump nut up good as it's a "reverse thread" and is notorious for becoming undone
    C217 S63 AMG S Cabriolet ( Daily )

    E87 116i with mild cams, headers, cold air intake making 136 bhp Lol (My Learning Track Car)

    E36 328i Sport ( Project in making and future race/track car )

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
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    Missouri
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    2000 bmw 528i, 2004 bmw
    I definitely I haven't put all this time and money into this build to watch it die in a month; thanks for the reminder though

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
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    Missouri
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    2000 bmw 528i, 2004 bmw
    Got the oil pump chain changed out and put everything back together and the rattle is still their... I listened around again and it sounded like maybe the power steering pump so I changed that out and started it up and the noise still continues to be their. I don't know what to do at this point im extremely stumped and frustrated at this point. Please someone help.

  6. #31
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    Dec 2013
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    The noise is very noticeable at idle only,
    as it basically disappears with throttle applied.

  7. #32
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    Mar 2017
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    2000 bmw 528i, 2004 bmw
    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    The noise is very noticeable at idle only,
    as it basically disappears with throttle applied.
    That is correct. Over 1500 rpms the sound goes away

  8. #33
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    Dec 2013
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    EXOTICS


    Remove and inspect #15-19 for damage.

  9. #34
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    Mar 2017
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    Missouri
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    2000 bmw 528i, 2004 bmw
    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post


    Remove and inspect #15-19 for damage.
    I have already tried the secondary are pump. Also mine bolts straight to the head so I only have 15-16.

  10. #35
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    Mar 2017
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    Missouri
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    2000 bmw 528i, 2004 bmw
    I have left the car running for a bit while it makes the rattle and I have learned that it gets worse when I turn the wheel and it effects the rpms if the wheel is turned completely right or left. It has a brand new power steering pump and ive done my best to flush the power steering fluid (atf for my car) The atf cycles through and is foamy When it re enters the resivor. I don't want to jump straight to the rack and pinion yet. Is their anything else to try?

  11. #36
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
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    Aberdeen, NC (yes, again)
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    E39M5, E500 4WD
    If the noise didn't go away completely when you ran the engine without the belt, it can't be the power steering. Regarding the steering, though: (1) it generally makes groaning noises, when it's having problems, not generally rattling. (2) best way to bleed the air is with engine off, front end off the ground, turn wheels from lock to lock about eight times. (3) If your rattle gets worse when you turn the steering, I'd suggest that your tensioner assembly may be bad, and/or perhaps the idler pulley. Get a mechanic's stethoscope and listen to the tensioner and the idler pulley bolt.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  12. #37
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    2000 bmw 528i, 2004 bmw
    Quote Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer View Post
    If the noise didn't go away completely when you ran the engine without the belt, it can't be the power steering. Regarding the steering, though: (1) it generally makes groaning noises, when it's having problems, not generally rattling. (2) best way to bleed the air is with engine off, front end off the ground, turn wheels from lock to lock about eight times. (3) If your rattle gets worse when you turn the steering, I'd suggest that your tensioner assembly may be bad, and/or perhaps the idler pulley. Get a mechanic's stethoscope and listen to the tensioner and the idler pulley bolt.
    Okay I will give it a try and get back with my results. If its the tensioners/ idle pulley wouldn't the sound have also gone away without the belt?

  13. #38
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    E39M5, E500 4WD
    Yes. However, you said the noise almost completely went away with the belt off; so start by fixing what you know is broken. The belt drive components must have something to do with it.....

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer View Post
    Yes. However, you said the noise almost completely went away with the belt off; so start by fixing what you know is broken. The belt drive components must have something to do with it.....
    I think you may be right I put the stethoscope on the idle pulley it sounded fine I put it on the tensioner pulley and it made my ear ring it was so loud. I'll buy a new one and hopefully this solves my issue.

  15. #40
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    Replace all tensioners and pulleys,
    seems like we're going in circles here !
    That's what I get for assuming all this was taken care of earlier.

  16. #41
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    2000 bmw 528i, 2004 bmw
    Replaced all tensioners, idler pulleys and belt and I am still getting a rattle in the same now brand new pulley. Behind the mount of this pulley is the oil filter housing could it be the anti-drainback valve causing my issue?

  17. #42
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    Put your stethoscope on the alternator. The idler pulley bolt is also the alternator mounting bolt.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  18. #43
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    2000 bmw 528i, 2004 bmw
    The alternator is quiet when I say pulley I'm referring to the one on the tensioner below. The idler Pulley. Sorry I should have been more specific. The one that you move to undo the belt is the one making all kinds of noise and it's brand new now.

  19. #44
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    That is called the tensioner pulley, not the idler pulley. If you were able to buy JUST the pulley, not the tensioner assembly, then you must have a hydraulic tensioner, rather than the mechanical, clockspring type. Maybe the hydraulic tensioner is faulty, or the mountings are broken and loose.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  20. #45
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
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    2000 bmw 528i, 2004 bmw
    Quote Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer View Post
    That is called the tensioner pulley, not the idler pulley. If you were able to buy JUST the pulley, not the tensioner assembly, then you must have a hydraulic tensioner, rather than the mechanical, clockspring type. Maybe the hydraulic tensioner is faulty, or the mountings are broken and loose.
    I replaced the hydraulic tensioner as well with the pulleys. But couldn't find where to buy the piece that connects the two.

  21. #46
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    Dec 2013
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    Was this what you installed?
    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...1287838797-1-2
    Helpful video is included.

  22. #47
    Join Date
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    2000 bmw 528i, 2004 bmw
    https://m.autozone.com/external-engi...27_0?location=

    https://m.autozone.com/external-engi...86_0?location=

    https://m.autozone.com/external-engi...21_0?location=

    This is what I installed.
    The second link is where the sound is coming from.
    I couldn't find the part to connect link one and two without ordering it offline.

  23. #48
    Join Date
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    E39M5, E500 4WD
    The second link is a tensioner pulley, not an idler pulley. That's one of the troubles with Autozone....they don't even know what the hell they're selling. The second problem is that they sell crap. If you're sure that pulley is still noisy, return it, it's bad. Which wouldn't surprise me a bit, considering where it came from.

    Don't buy BMW parts at Autozone, O'Reilly, Napa, Rock Auto, or similar generic garbage stores. But only from places that SPECIALIZE in BMWs, like FCP Euro, RM European, Pelican Parts, getbmwparts.com, etc.....

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  24. #49
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    95 m3+, 03 ZHP, Mk4 Tdi
    and, i'd point out - if the poster is located near KC - the local BMW club chapter there has an amazing parts purchase program with Baron BMW. Members get BMW parts at a very competitive price. all you have to do is go in to the parts department and show your membership card.

    www.bmwcca.org/join
    '95 325iS - auto to manual swap done!

  25. #50
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    Missouri
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    2000 bmw 528i, 2004 bmw
    Okay I will try a new tensioner and see what happens I don't normally buy stuff for my bimmer at AutoZone because I know it doesn't normally work but I figured maybe the sound would go a away to let me know if that was the issue.

    I will look into it shadowpuck thanks

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