https://youtu.be/Wlx3af6RQ2M
This is the play I have.
Tomorrow I will put it back together with the new oil pump chain and see what happens.
Make sure you use some good loctite and tighten the oil pump nut up good as it's a "reverse thread" and is notorious for becoming undone
C217 S63 AMG S Cabriolet ( Daily )
E87 116i with mild cams, headers, cold air intake making 136 bhp Lol (My Learning Track Car)
E36 328i Sport ( Project in making and future race/track car )
I definitely I haven't put all this time and money into this build to watch it die in a month; thanks for the reminder though
Got the oil pump chain changed out and put everything back together and the rattle is still their... I listened around again and it sounded like maybe the power steering pump so I changed that out and started it up and the noise still continues to be their. I don't know what to do at this point im extremely stumped and frustrated at this point. Please someone help.
The noise is very noticeable at idle only,
as it basically disappears with throttle applied.
I have left the car running for a bit while it makes the rattle and I have learned that it gets worse when I turn the wheel and it effects the rpms if the wheel is turned completely right or left. It has a brand new power steering pump and ive done my best to flush the power steering fluid (atf for my car) The atf cycles through and is foamy When it re enters the resivor. I don't want to jump straight to the rack and pinion yet. Is their anything else to try?
If the noise didn't go away completely when you ran the engine without the belt, it can't be the power steering. Regarding the steering, though: (1) it generally makes groaning noises, when it's having problems, not generally rattling. (2) best way to bleed the air is with engine off, front end off the ground, turn wheels from lock to lock about eight times. (3) If your rattle gets worse when you turn the steering, I'd suggest that your tensioner assembly may be bad, and/or perhaps the idler pulley. Get a mechanic's stethoscope and listen to the tensioner and the idler pulley bolt.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Yes. However, you said the noise almost completely went away with the belt off; so start by fixing what you know is broken. The belt drive components must have something to do with it.....
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Replace all tensioners and pulleys,
seems like we're going in circles here !
That's what I get for assuming all this was taken care of earlier.
Replaced all tensioners, idler pulleys and belt and I am still getting a rattle in the same now brand new pulley. Behind the mount of this pulley is the oil filter housing could it be the anti-drainback valve causing my issue?
Put your stethoscope on the alternator. The idler pulley bolt is also the alternator mounting bolt.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
The alternator is quiet when I say pulley I'm referring to the one on the tensioner below. The idler Pulley. Sorry I should have been more specific. The one that you move to undo the belt is the one making all kinds of noise and it's brand new now.
That is called the tensioner pulley, not the idler pulley. If you were able to buy JUST the pulley, not the tensioner assembly, then you must have a hydraulic tensioner, rather than the mechanical, clockspring type. Maybe the hydraulic tensioner is faulty, or the mountings are broken and loose.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Was this what you installed?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...1287838797-1-2
Helpful video is included.
https://m.autozone.com/external-engi...27_0?location=
https://m.autozone.com/external-engi...86_0?location=
https://m.autozone.com/external-engi...21_0?location=
This is what I installed.
The second link is where the sound is coming from.
I couldn't find the part to connect link one and two without ordering it offline.
The second link is a tensioner pulley, not an idler pulley. That's one of the troubles with Autozone....they don't even know what the hell they're selling. The second problem is that they sell crap. If you're sure that pulley is still noisy, return it, it's bad. Which wouldn't surprise me a bit, considering where it came from.
Don't buy BMW parts at Autozone, O'Reilly, Napa, Rock Auto, or similar generic garbage stores. But only from places that SPECIALIZE in BMWs, like FCP Euro, RM European, Pelican Parts, getbmwparts.com, etc.....
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
and, i'd point out - if the poster is located near KC - the local BMW club chapter there has an amazing parts purchase program with Baron BMW. Members get BMW parts at a very competitive price. all you have to do is go in to the parts department and show your membership card.
www.bmwcca.org/join
'95 325iS - auto to manual swap done!
Okay I will try a new tensioner and see what happens I don't normally buy stuff for my bimmer at AutoZone because I know it doesn't normally work but I figured maybe the sound would go a away to let me know if that was the issue.
I will look into it shadowpuck thanks
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