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Thread: 2000 bmw 528i misbehaving again :(

  1. #1
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    2000 bmw 528i, 2004 bmw

    2000 bmw 528i misbehaving again :(

    When I start it up it rattles and grinds really loud. sounds like its internal but when I touch the gas it quiets down. I tried the starter and had no luck and i pulled the belt and the sound almost went away. Should i start with the water pump? The water pump is basically new. Ill try to get a video up of the sound. No cel either.

    186xxx miles
    Engine 4xxx
    Complete ac delete.

  2. #2
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  3. #3
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    Well get a look under the car. Your exhaust is falling apart likely.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods. RomRaider self-tune work in progress.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg: Many Mods ~300ft/lbs tq, diesel, daily beater. Love/Hate relationship.
    - S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 240hp/380ft-lbs

  4. #4
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    I know i have a catalytic converter i need to replace you think that could cause that sound?

  5. #5
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    Okay so i got my catalytic converters replaced. New and oem and I am still getting the same sound. I used a long screw driver and listened around and the sound seems to be coming from the timing chain/vanos area (middle to top half, not lower). Where would be the best place to start? I rebuilt the vanos with the rest of the engine 4xxx miles ago along with new chains and guides but they where not bmw brand guides and tensioners. Please help I miss driving my car.

  6. #6
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    The car had driven home just fine from work no odd sounds and then this sound started the next morning when I tried to start it up. I dont know if that helps at all.

  7. #7
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    Sounds like the timing chain and guides need some work.

  8. #8
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    Try opening up the oil fill cap, I think you might have a bad PCV.

  9. #9
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    I’d put it on a lift or jackstands and run it in gear while you look and listen.

    Looks like you have put a lot of money into this car - rebuilding the engine and replacing the converters. Are you doing this yourself or paying a shop?

  10. #10
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    I have done all the work myself I bought a new block and head and rebuilt the engine after a failed head gasket had destroyed the engine from the previous owner not stopping when the car over heated and i put everything back together based off of manufacture specs. And thank you all for your responses I will check these shortly and post my findings.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ptarditi View Post
    Try opening up the oil fill cap, I think you might have a bad PCV.
    The pcv also only has 4xxx miles on it but I can check.

  12. #12
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    It sounds like it's timing related, along with exhaust/converter.




  13. #13
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    Or, it could just be a loose heat shield, or metallic cover in the engine compartment.




  14. #14
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    Its almost gotta be timing related at this point I already replaced the catalytic converters and nothing changed except a smoother idle. Im going to pull the front clip and timing chain cover when I get the chance and see what it looks like in there

  15. #15
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    Since the source of the symptoms is a mystery,
    I suggest a diagnostic scan, as a code may reveal a clue.




  16. #16
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    A couple of things:
    You said that you drove it home after work, and there were no odd noises, but this noise started the next morning.
    Try this: unplug the secondary air pump, and then start the engine. Still make noise?

    Next, you said that the noise "ALMOST went away when you removed the belt". Maybe you have two noises, and one of them is a bad idler or tensioner pulley that's about to explode? Have you listened with a mechanic's stethoscope to all your pulleys?

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, at an independent, formerly @ dealer
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer View Post
    A couple of things:
    You said that you drove it home after work, and there were no odd noises, but this noise started the next morning.
    Try this: unplug the secondary air pump, and then start the engine. Still make noise?

    Next, you said that the noise "ALMOST went away when you removed the belt". Maybe you have two noises, and one of them is a bad idler or tensioner pulley that's about to explode? Have you listened with a mechanic's stethoscope to all your pulleys?
    When you say unplug the secondary air pump you mean the black part down it the passenger front fender correct? or do you mean remove the vacuum hose from the little pump off of the head? Sorry not trying to sound stupid just trying to properly diagnose the issue.

    And no I haven't listened to the pulleys but I can give it a shot. I just made the assumption that removing the belt relieved some tension off the engine/issue reducing the sound.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    Since the source of the symptoms is a mystery,
    I suggest a diagnostic scan, as a code may reveal a clue.
    The only codes I have are from the catalytic converter I just replaced on bank 1. And I haven't been able to drive the car for the code to clear.

  18. #18
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    Unplug the electrical plug, to see what effect it has on the noise. The secondary air pump runs for 30-90 seconds after a cold start, and when it's failing, it's incredibly noisy.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, at an independent, formerly @ dealer
    BMWCCA 274412 SCCA 334928

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer View Post
    Unplug the electrical plug, to see what effect it has on the noise. The secondary air pump runs for 30-90 seconds after a cold start, and when it's failing, it's incredibly noisy.
    Okay I will give that a try and see what happens the sound is present for longer than 90 seconds though but ill still try

  20. #20
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    No luck with the secondary air pump so I'm going to start tearing into the engine to get to the timing today. I'll let you guys know what I found.

  21. #21
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    This may be a long shot but it is a simple thing to check and rule out. Check the crankshaft damper bolt ("Jesus Bolt") to see if it has backed off. This is something that would sound different with the belt removed, (although I would have guessed it would be louder without the belt)

  22. #22
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    Well my timing all still looked perfect and the Jesus bolt was definitely on. Their is some play in the lower chain that goes to the oil pump so I guess the oil pan will be the next thing to come off. See what the state of the oil pump and rod bearings are. The rod bearings should be fine since they are new but I guess I will find out soon.

  23. #23
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    All my rod bearings look great still. And when I turn the engine by hand their no noise it's just quiet. So I guess I'm going to rebuild the oil pump and replace the lower chain. I haven't come across anything that just screams broken though. The chain has about 1/2in of play in it. Could that cause that much noise? I'm refering to the chain that goes to the oil pump.

  24. #24
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    I may have missed it but did you remove the timing cover? Did you replace the lower timing chain guides when you replaced the block? The oil pump chain should have a little slack, how are you measuring the 1/2"?, that doesn't sound excessive enough to cause your noise.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by gdavid View Post
    I may have missed it but did you remove the timing cover? Did you replace the lower timing chain guides when you replaced the block? The oil pump chain should have a little slack, how are you measuring the 1/2"?, that doesn't sound excessive enough to cause your noise.
    Yes I took the timing chain cover and oil pan off. Yes the guides where all replaced with the block. And it's just more of a guestament of how much play is there than a proper measurement. And I don't see that much play causing that much noise either but I can't find anything else that even looks slightly off.

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