Hi guys, so as the title says one of my lug/wheel bolt snapped in the wheel bearing hub. I went to autozone and got a bolt extractor set and when it started threading, that bolt snapped . So anyone have any ideas to get it out... Also is it safe to drive the car right now with 3 of 4 bolts in as this is my only daily, and I travel about 100 miles a day... Please let me know!
take it to a shop or replace the hub while you're at it, this happened to me a while ago, the nut that stayed attached broke the caliper, it took a while to break tho and it could've been worse
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Yea im on a little budget, I got a grinder and started smoothing it out so nothing is rubbing on it, but is it ok driving my normal distance though with only 3 instead of 4?
I've driven a lot of 5 lug wheels with a lug broken so only had 4 bolts holding. However 1 out of 4 broken is different in that you loose 25% holding vs 20%, also the gripping pattern is significantly more uneven. I certainly would not drive fast and avoid any undue stress on the wheel such as rapid starts and stops and rough roads.
Your only option would seem to be drill the bolt out. You have to be really picky in centering your drill bit. Start small and progressive use larger size bits. After most of the bolt is drilled out, may be able to use an easy out to remove the rest without damaging the thread. You must be careful not to damage the thread. Another option is to weld a nut to the broken bolt. All the heat seems to free up the bolt. Any time when removing a stubborn bolt, heat it with your propane torch.
There's no way he'll be able to drill it out. He already broke the extractor off.
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I've drilled ez outs before but I had some really, really good bits - long time ago so can't tell you much.
14vlopez,
Next time you break a bolt of any kind, take a moment to grab your phone and take a picture. Then post it on a hosting site like http://postimages.org/.
The problem with using a grinder and trying a simple ez-out is that you've removed material from the bolt you want to extract. You don't want to do that. You never know when you could have cut a cross hatch in it or shaped it to a wrenchable condition.
You need to swap that hub (do the other if you can) ASAP and avoid driving it for long with your 3 lugs holding. Give yourself extra room, keep your top speed down and avoid hard braking while turning on that wheel. Take a torque wrench and 17 or whatever your lugs are and check it before you drive it every time. Make sure those bolts are torqued. Obviously if they are backing off, you want to avoid driving as much as possible. 100 miles per day is probably enough to work these free in stop and go traffic. Just be safe, leave distance, check the bolts and keep the remaining ones tight.
You can pull good enough hubs and bearings from the junkyard. Just learn how to test them and check a bunch if you have the option. I am still totally willing to help you, but assuming you've ground off all the protruding material, you just need to replace the hub. Those fronts are sold pressed into new hubs and are simple to do at home with hand tools.
Erik
If you can grind the broken Easy-out flush, try using a carbide tipped concrete drill, 3/8" might work if you can hit it close to center. The heat and vibration from the drill might help loosen the bolt. If you rotate the flange so there's nothing in the way behind it, the bolt may loosen and drive all the way thru. Use PB Blaster, or even better, a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone.
Last edited by TheStigg; 01-29-2018 at 11:52 PM.
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If you have a dremel like tool, carbide tungsted die burr cutters will remove the ez (hard) out.
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Is there any part of the stud sticking out past the wheel? If so, I have escaped tragedy by welding a nut onto what is left of the stud and using that with a socket to extract it. The heat from welding also seems to have the added benefit of loosening things up if they are a bit rusted. If you don't have a welder maybe a local shop could do this for you.
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Sorry for late reply guys but I was able to find a guy parting out his e30, and just bought the entire spindle from him for $170, everything else after that just went to shit. I had to buy a new control arm as the old one the bolt and nut were seized, outer tie rod nut and bolt seized, sway bar U bracket seized, so I had to go to the BMW dealership to get the missing nuts and bolts... But everything is all put together so Murphy's law definitely hit me this time... All from one broken wheel stud lol
If things are that bad - it sounds like you need to replace the other side suspension components as well (and most likely rear too.)
New suspension components can really transform the handling of an old car.
I understand the budget constraint - so keep an eye out on Craigslist for other deals - make plans now before the other ones give out..
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