The Bentley manual and bleeding the cooling system . . .

[enf1945]

Bentley says u can just put the key in the ignition in position 2 and put
the heat fan on to circulate the coolant.

But the E36 doesnt have an auxilary water pump.

I assume its a mistake and this doesnt work.

The Hayes manual has a better system of using the vent hole
till the bubbles stop then after closing it
watch the refill tank and squeeze the hoses when the coolant level risies.

Ive seen a FAQ on the mechanics thread on the way to bleed.

The repair shops use a vacuum system which is probably the fastest and best,
but u need an air hose.

Curious to see what others think or have gone through.

[JDStrickland]

It does not say that, exactly. It says that coolant will flow through the heater core if you put the key to Position II (RUN) and set the controls to high. Coolant will not go to the heater if the Heater Control Valve is closed, that's what it means to say.

I have found that if you leave the top hose disconnected from the radiator, you can fill the block through the hose until coolant comes out of the radiator where the hose is supposed to be connected. This procedure will fill the engine quickly and easily, and the Bleeding Procedure will go much easier.

[shogun]

see my post no. 14 and the reply of the Master Auto Tech in post # 15 https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...light=bleeding

Remember, the heater valve are open powerless

[Thrifty S50]

I have found that if you leave the top hose disconnected from the radiator, you can fill the block through the hose until coolant comes out of the radiator where the hose is supposed to be connected. This procedure will fill the engine quickly and easily, and the Bleeding Procedure will go much easier.

JD, this is with the Car OFF right? Like not even with teh key in position 2, correct?

[BMWManiac]

JD, this is with the Car OFF right? Like not even with teh key in position 2, correct?

That may work, but i have no desire to have my system open like that when I can fill through the expansion tank. It really is simple and yet over complicated. Have the front of the car raised up. Fill the expansion tank all the way to the top of the tank and keep watching for it to drop. When it doesn't drop anymore, put the cap on slightly tight. Remove the bleed screw next to the expansion tank. Now, go into the car, turn your key to position 2 so you can put your heater to full blast at full temp. NOW, start the car. When coolant starts overflowing with no bubbles out of the bleed screw, put the screw in and tighten. You should rev the car, from the throttle body, up...get a feel for how the engine sounds at 2000 to 2500 RPM. The car should get up to temp, stay, and you should get plenty of heat from the vents....there, you're done. Turn off the car, put the car back down on the ground. Let the car cool down and maybe even wait until the next morning. Open the expansion tank, fill to the Kalt level and go for a drive. Every morning, check the level until it stays where it should.

[Thrifty S50]

lol i have bled my E36 (multiple times) before, successfully at that. Bleeding IS simple, and should be simple as you also said.

Im sure you were directing your tutorial to the OP Mr. Maniac, as my question was more directed towards JD's method of filling the block, one of which ive never heard before.

Thank you though!

[Eric93se]

When first filling coolant the bleed screw should be completely removed, so that air can get pushed out.

[enf1945]

any issues with using distilled water that was Ozonated ? They do it to kill bacteria. The ozone is gone when u buy it.

[Nanniepoo]

Most people probably just use tap so don't worry about it

Sent from the dark side of the Moon

[shogun]

I use normal tap water, because as per the testing sheet here by the water plant it is acceptable, BASF mentions in their data sheet for the Glycol G48 which I usually use:

For preparation of the coolant use clean, not overly hard water. Waste water from mining, sea water, brackish water, brine, industrial waste water are all unsuitable. The analysis of the water should not exceed the following limits:
Water hardness 0 to 20 °dGH (0 - 3.6 mmol/l)
Chloride content max. 100 ppm
Sulphate content max. 100 ppm
Should the analysis of the water exceed the approved limits, then it has to be suitably treated, for example by mixing with pure, distilled or deionised water. Excessive chloride or sulphate levels can be corrected in this way.

Glysantin G 48 should possibly not be mixed with silicate free, OAT engine coolants.

Glysantin G 48 meets the requirements of both the ASTM D 3306 and BS 6580:1992 - standards. Glysantin G 48 also got the following OEMapprovals
BMW BMW N 600 69.0 , German Army TL 6850-0038/1 , KHD H-LV 0161 0188 , MAN MAN 324-NF, Mercedes-Benz DBL 7700.20, page 325.0, MTU MTL 5048, Opel/General Motors B 040 0240, Saab 6901599, VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda TL 774-C

http://www.geomatique-liege.be/MGJP/...santin_G48.pdf

[Eric93se]

You always want to use distilled water. You do not want your coolant to be conductive.

- - - Updated - - -

No need for ozonated distilled water.