Hi all, I’m new to this forum and looking for some help.
I have a 1998 Z3 1.9 Roadster. Just put a meter on the passenger seat wiring to confirm that the forward/backward motor is broken. I need to remove the seat to either repair or replace it, but How?????
The motor doesn’t work so I can’t make the seat for forwards and backwards to get access to the bolts that fix it in the car.
How can I get the seat out?????
I have not needed to do it, but the motor can be turned by hand to move the seat forward and backward to get to the bolts. Try a google search for bmw z3 seat motor won't work or something similar. You should get many hits.
2002 M Roadster, Steel Gray Metailic, Gray Nappa Leather, Black Soft Top, Steel Gray Metailic Hard Top, TC Kline Double Adj Shocks with H&R Springs, Stromung Exhaust, SSR Type C Wheels. Looking for a new home.
2022 Z4 M40i, Misano Blue Metallic, Prem Pkg, Driver Assistance Pkg
2023 X5 M50, Phytonic Blue, Black Extended Merion Leather, Driving Asst Pro Pkg, Park Asst Pkg, Exec Pkg, Climate Comfort Pkg.
Yeah if the other motor to raise the seat works raise it as high as you can, then you should be able to see the motor and try to work it from therr
Thank you for your help. Did a search and found a method of moving manually.
Hopefully will be able to get the seat out now and get the repair done
Some threads on that, in case you have not already found them:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...87&postcount=6
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=693509
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...8#post25850328
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...t-move-forward
BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405
Not seen these before.
All good useful info.
Many thanks
Update
Worked on it today and took 20 mins to get the seat out.
Motor is duff! No continuity through the coil. So need to find a replacement.
As I had intended to put heat pads in to the seats, I think I will take out the other seat and centre console tomorrow, strip the seats down and get the pads fitted while I try to find a replacement motor.
All good fun
If it hasn't been done already, now would be a good time to replace the seat track bushings. Also a good time to replace the clutch pedal bushings with oiled bronze If you don't have an SRS reset tool, order one now.
Only had the Zed since November, so will check the bushings. But what is an SRS reset tool?
- - - Updated - - -
Need to take the centre console out to find the two red connectors that fit to the heated seat switches. I’ve had the gear stick gaiter off but can see them. Could be under the carpet on the transmission tunnel.
You'd know if you needed seat track bushings-- your seats would rock fore and aft on their tracks--very common problem with a very common fix that only needs done once, so if they don't rock, it's already been done. An SRS reset tool resets the airbag light after you inevitably turn the key on with the seats unplugged.
The rubber seat bushings liquify with age and let the seats shift back and forth. The movement can only be checked with seats installed, but you can assume the bushings are gone, and with the seats out, you are well on the way to replacing them. See:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...5#post27698955
If you have turned you key with the seats out, your will need a gadget to reset the airbag light. The B800 is popular and inexpensive:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...4542-_-Product
If you have not used the key, and can keep it away from the car, you will not need the tool.
For console removal, here's some threads:
http://www.waycoolinc.com/z3/book/console.html
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49984
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...0#post27531340
If you are going to remove much of the interior, here's a good thread that was posted on two forums:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ntire-interior
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=258312
BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405
I was warned about that light issue. So the ignition key has a reminder label tied to it not to be used until all connections have been done. Seats seem ok but will check everything before they go back in the car.
I got console out today and found a whole bunch of connectors, two of which are the ones I need for the heated seat switches.
Thanks for all the links, I will read through them tonight
You mean you did not notice the seats shifting when they were in the car.
Once the seats are out of the car, you cannot check the bushings except by removing and disassembling the tracks to expose the bushings on their carriers on the screws. At that point you need new bushings in hand.
This is not about seeming or checking. On a 1997 Z3, the bushings are gone unless someone replaced them with plastic, very unlikely.. Order new plastic bushings and do it while the seats are out.
Last edited by Vintage42; 01-18-2018 at 07:32 PM.
BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405
A little clarification is in order here.
Because BMWNA took so long to authorize the repair of my car(s), I had the time to design and construct the first couple of prototypes__the cars were going to get fixed one way or another.
I had my reinforcement pieces laying in the trunk of my black car__the '99 M Rdstr__when I took it in to have the trunkfloor assembly replaced, and the then twenty (>20) year veteran of BMW collision repairs/factory schools gave his unofficial endorsement when he declared that if he put in the reinforcement, I'd never look back (i., e., the car being repaired once and for all). He stated that the trunkfloor assembly had never been updated__despite any rumors to the contrary__and that in a few years, the car would exhibit the same faults all over again. That exact point was proven when a Chicago M Rdstr owner had the floor replaced TWICE under warranty, and when the thrid (3rd) one failed, he brought the car to me.
So, both of my M Rdstrs ('99 & '01) still have their manufactured with trunk floors, and have been reinforced with the pieces that I produced, and installed by a BMW factory trained mechanician while the cars were still under their respective warranties (CPO & New Car).
Also had a non-working seat motor. With the motor out noticed there was a do not dis-assemble (or similar) embossment/tag. So you know what I had to do. When apart the problem was obvious, brush was cocked in the holder. Cleaned up the brushes and commutator, stuck the brushes back in their holders and never another problem in 5 plus years. If you are going to trash it any way what have you got to lose but some time. The time is keeping the brushes open while pushing the commutator through. If you would prefer you could get the motor rebuilt at
Ace Armature
683 Mineral Spring Ave
Pawtucket, RI 02860
Ask for Norman
Just what I was looking for. Thank you.
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