Jack Stand Adapters/Safe jack stand placement

[cerobbins]

Hello All,

I'm finding cars to become increasingly difficult to both jack up and place my e39 525iT jack stands to safely work on. It seems that most unibody cars now have a plastic rectangular jacking point designed for service on a four post lift and on some makes that's really the only safe point you have available. However, the selection of jack stands I currently have just don't fit well with those. Currently I sandwich a piece of 2x4 between the jack stand and spread the load over the entire edge of that plastic adapter. I don't really like the level of security this provides and I always leave my jack under the car as an extra backup. However, I need a better solution if for nothing else but peace of mind. I don't like to mess around when it comes to safety.

What do you guys to to put your e39s up on jack stands? I've also got a Mercedes W164 ML63 that has roughly the same jacking points as my e39. Are there some jack stands out there that are made to match up perfectly to those plastic vehicle mounted jacking points?

I've been debating buying a whole new set of jack stands and modifying them just for this purpose, but that will be a lot of hassle for something that should be so simple.

Does anyone know if those plastic jacking points are engineered to be loaded on the outside flange or inside the square keyed part?

Any and all advice welcome. I feel silly even asking but this has been bugging me for as long as I've owned my e39.

I've also considered buying a set of quick jacks and just using those. Just hard to swallow the price tag for my purposes.

Thanks!

[nikh23]

Do you have a picture of what you’re referring to? I replaced all the jack pads on my e39 with parts from ecs and have no issues using my traditional jack stands to hold the car up


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cerobbins]

Essentially my jack stands do not fit in the plastic chassis adapters like the picture below. My jack stands have a much more pronounced U shape profile than this picture and would probably just crush the sides of the adapter because they cannot spread the load evenly.

I need a better interface between my jack stand and the jacking point on the car. Wondering what other folks are doing.

[JaxPlanet]

^ You're lucky you have the V stands or you might have tried this, which is terrifying. One nudge from disaster!

Get the rubber pad adapters from eBay, which look like a hockey puck with a rectangular block on top. These will secure in the jack pad opening and mold itself around the stand's U or V shape under weight so it won't slide off or damage the pads. eBay search: e39 jack pad

[bluptgm3]

I don’t own an E39, but I found that the (NLA) ACS flat tops meet my requirements.
These have been replaced by Esco, at a far better price point than the ~$90 each I paid several years ago.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Esco-10498-3-...4AAOSw4CFYrD3M

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cerobbins]

Pelican Parts sells these jack stands.

They look very good for these plastic jack points.


Anyone have any first hand experience with them? Certainly overkill with a 6000lb rating.

Also how are you guys getting the front of the e39 in the air to put it on jack stands? I use the rear diff housing for the rear. Haven't found a great method for the front yet.

[edjack]

The I6 has a jack pad on the crossmember under the engine.

The V8 can also be jacked at that same point, but there is no pad.

I always use a length of 2x4 between the diff and the jack to spread out the load.

[cerobbins]

Thanks edjack. I did not know that the front crossmember could be used. I'll have to give that a shot.

I also always use a block of lumber to spread the load more evenly.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Your front subframe has a jackpoint in the middle, should be a black pad for jacking the front end up. The V8 subframes also have a jackpoint in the middle, but I don't remember my 540 having a pad like the i6's do.

- - - Updated - - -

The I6 has a jack pad on the crossmember under the engine.

The V8 can also be jacked at that same point, but there is no pad.

I always use a length of 2x4 between the diff and the jack to spread out the load.

Haha! You beat me to it, had it typed up, went to play with the dog, came back and hit post reply just now.

[StephenVA]

I use these as they have the option of getting a modified center post with the pad pockets block built in
https://www.reverselogic.us/jack-stands.html

[StRaNgEdAyS]

This is how I do it...
The socket sits neatly inside the plastic jacking point and it's actually very solid and steady. It doesn't move at all.

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk

[cerobbins]

interesting idea stragedays. That kind of brings me full circle to a long time question I've had. Are these plastic jack adapters designed to be load bearing inside in the rectangular area or is that just a keyed for ease of putting the vehicle on your typical 4 post lift? I assumed the load bearing surface was the perimeter. The whole thing could be load bearing as well. Does anyone know for certain?

[cnn]

I posted info on bimmerfest, see thread #25:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=811724


I will post the photo here. In addition to what is shown, I now use 2 jackstands under subframe:

a. The Screw type jack (as shown in photo), adjusted so the load is even 50-50 with "b" below.
b. A regular 4-leg jackstand (not shown, but I place it under subframe).

Basically the load is shared by these 2 jackstands. It is very very secure this way.

Don't forget to chock the wheels. Bricks (as shown) work fine but rubber chocks ($7/each at Harbor Freight) are better than bricks.

[computiNATEor]

Y'all worry too much. I've used the "u-shaped" 6-ton Horror Freight jackstands w/ their heavy duty low profile jack for about a year now, and I've never had a problem. Car never moves from the jackpads, even after a small SoCal earthquake.

[geargrinder]

Y'all worry too much. I've used the "u-shaped" 6-ton Horror Freight jackstands w/ their heavy duty low profile jack for about a year now, and I've never had a problem. Car never moves from the jackpads, even after a small SoCal earthquake.

Ha ha yep. I'm with Nate.

I have a collection of old jackstands of various brands, most have the same 'slightly U shaped' tops. I straddle the factory plastic pad. Have only had the car jacked like that probably about 100x over the years and another 100x for the E46 with identical jack pads.

There is nothing wrong w the slice-of-2x4 approach OP mentioned if you want to keep doing that, tho I don't think it's necessary. For my wife's Audi, it annoyingly has the 'reinforced pinch weld jack location' which BLOWs and for that I made a quick wooden pad by cutting a slot in a little chunk of 2x4, because that's indeed a different story.

That said, the jackstands listed above w/ the flat rubber pad are gorgeous and sweet, and I'd love a couple sets, but, would be a luxury, given the pile of old geezers I have that are 100% fine. Maybe someday I'll splurge on some, the same time I get a set of deluxe race ramps or something...

I do use a massive wheel chock that came with my house (think it was used on a big fishing boat trailer by some previous resident...) and I think that's key for safety. I also leave the jack with weight released but locked in place as a standard procedure unless its absolutely in the way of the work...

I do in fact have one of these which I think I got on sale at a radically cheaper price than they sell at now, if I had 2 I would probably use them both, but given I only have one, it's pointless unless I want to use the floor jack on a side-location (and even then I just normally stick the floor jack under the factory pad)

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...xoCtiMQAvD_BwE

[philly98540]

I made some embarrassingly cheap wooden ones here: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...Cheapo-Version

Been using them for a couple years now. Love em. Great with the jack or my U shape stands.

[Qsilver7]

the indentation in the jackpads are moreso for the oe "widowmaker" jack...since it doesn't have much of a base to stand on and if not on solid ground...can easily tilt if the car is rocked or bumped. If the ground is soft or unstable...that too can make the jack tilt and fall over.

A regular jack stand or jack with a "V" shape can be used...the car's jackpad won't collaspe...the weight of the car will be spread over the entire surface of the jackpad where it contacts the car's rocker panel. If your rocker panel is rusted through...then that's a different story and issue all together!


Below is an illustration of where to lift or place stands...remember it's the COVER of the rear diff that SHOULD NOT be used...the rear diff itself is okay:

[Dave Sal]

There's a guy that advertises BMW jack pad adapters in the classifieds of Roundel magazine. Found the link:

https://www.reverselogic.us/bmw_jack_pad.html


Doh! Just noticed that StephenVA already posted a link to this place.

[f355spider]

Years ago, I bought jack stands with relatively flat tops or cradles on them. They have a wide top with a very slight curve to them. I think I got them from Griots Garage, an online retailer located here in the NW. I would think you could find something similar at Harbor Freight.

[bluptgm3]

Those sound like the NLA ACS and now replaced by Esco.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Aussie528iT]

WARNING
Don't do what I did.
I didn't realise the original BMW "half" scissors type jack develops a sideways force when jacking up the car.
It relies on the opposite wheel being on the ground to oppose the sideways force.
I was adjusting my hand brake cables and had one side jacked up on a garage jack and did one wheel and as my 2nd garage jack was leaking down due to a faulty seal, I jacked up the opposite side with the BMW jack.
As soon as I started moving the brake disc to make the adjustment, the sideways force was enough to push the garage jack off the plastic jack pad on the opposite side.
There was no damage on the garage jack side as the garage jack ended up pressing on the floor.
The BMW jack however didn't collapse but tilted sideways and the threaded portion of the jack dented the sill panel.
So be warned.

[computiNATEor]

The widowmaker jack should really only be used to change a tire. Anything more is risky.

[Richb134]

They make the correct inserts. They are very reasonable. It is a BMW. Use the correct parts.

[cerobbins]

I'm really only concerned with getting all 4 wheels off the ground for more intensive work or maintenance. I would only go to the bmw toolkit in a roadside emergency.

I ordered a set of those Esco jacks. I'll report back after they arrive and I get to use them in case anyone is interested. I've got some regular maintenance to do on my e39 and W164 that really needs all wheels in the air and the car level.

[DennisG01]

I have a set of jack stands similar to the Craftsman pictured above, but the inside dimension of the jack stand "rest" is not quite long enough to span that plastic/rubber insert as shown in the picture (lengthwise). So I just have my jack stand rest going left to right (90* compared to the picture) across the insert. Been doing it that way for nearly 16 years.