I have a specific question that I am sure is explained at one point or another in a thread somewhere... however I haven't had luck finding it and have been trying a while. I don't know much about ASC+T, when I was first working on designing a turbo kit for a BMW it was an E28 535i M30B34. It didn't even have ASC+T, the only reason I know it exists is because I tore apart my new car, the 1997 E36 M3 Sedan, from the guibo back, except for removing the engine, transmission and rear subframe and diff, I found every worn part on the car and replaced it. Now my question is, considering the ASC+T runs off a vacuum feed from the intake, will it even function properly if connected under boost? Is it even possible to keep this system intact while going FI? I'm wanting to use this intake plenum:
RHD Engineering ITB
It may not have the appropriate connections for it, they haven't answered me back about that question yet, but they have confirmed the intake plenum can be secured to the backing plate to hold boost...
Thanks for your help, I am not a newbie to bimmers or Forced Induction. But there are a few things this M3 has that the 80 vehicles didn't lol.
1997 E36 M3 Sedan
Why would you want asc? I can see keeping the traction control system on an E90M3 if you revise to Euro MDM, but the E36 version is not worth keeping. I drive year round including winter in my turbo E36N3 and no asc. Tossed it with when the M50 manifold went on in 2006.
I just want to know if it's theoretically possible and if so what would be involved. I'm a weird mixture of a BMW purist and being obsessed with upgrades. I know they don't mix well. But I wanted to add to the car without taking away from it. To be honest I was considering running dual ECU's with a custom switch and harness and turbo bypass valve so that I could run the car N/A if I ever needed anyone else to drive the car for whatever purpose. I realize this would all be overkill. But I have a deep love for both mechanical and electrical engineering and enjoy doing things in ways others haven't.
My ultimate rear wheel HP goal is 850 with a 6 speed swap and custom length 6th gear, cam profile with more power at high RPM's, ITB's, forged internals, cut ring HG, (considering solid lifter cams, don't know if I want the extra clicking or maintenance though, but if I want to top this setup out I may need to do so), deck the heads, port match and polish, dual mass flywheel/clutch and shorshifter, mishimoto radiator and expansion tank and water pump with metal impeller. . My current setup is with the stock auto transmission which means I don't have to switch out my support brace or driveline... I know I COULD do the driveline but there's enough play in the length to make the difference.
I have a TON of different setup options in my head but it's things like this that ASC+T issue that get in the way of me making my decisions lol. I've got years to figure it out though lol. This is my fourth BMW and I've never actually put a turbo on one yet. But I've read Maximum Boost at least ten times not including the times I studied it.
EDIT: I forgot ARP head studs...
- - - Updated - - -
But most of all, I want all my buttons in the car to be functional lol. I hate it when things have no purpose or are mislabeled.
Last edited by bmwfan2304; 01-13-2018 at 10:04 PM.
1997 E36 M3 Sedan
also, turbo bypass valve was the wrong thing to say, it describes what I'm trying to do but what I mean is basically a BOV that I can put in an open position constantly so that whoever is driving gets no boost lol. I know it wouldn't run GREAT but then I wouldn't be afraid to let someone help me move the car if need be. I don't know anyone other than my lady that I would trust in a car that powerful lol
1997 E36 M3 Sedan
An aftermarket ECU could do what you want in terms of eliminating boost and offering good traction control.
I'll have to do some research on what the best aftermarket ECU's are the best right now. Last time I really researched those it was Megasquirt everyone was going with. Is that still the case?
1997 E36 M3 Sedan
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