Just got 1999 Z 3 M Roadster

[SteveG66]

Hello, new to the Z family with a 99 Boston Green M, can't wait to get it out with the top down!! I take delivery tomorrow and will take a good look to triage the things that need to be taken care of. I know the first thing is to get the rear subframe reinforcement done. I've been reading about the Randy Forbes kit, anyone know of anyone near Indianapolis that has done this kit well?

I've been reading a lot on the forums and know that most of the gremlins that I have and will encounter can be sorted out with plenty of patience and $$$. I've got the paitience and this forum (with search tool) to help guide me through the repairs.

Anyway, just wanted to introduce myself, I'm not a big poster but will try to contribute when I can.

Happy Holidays to you all!!!

SteveG66

[zellamay]

Welcome. I am new to these cars also, bought my 98 Z3M almost a year ago. Warning: I am not the expert on this, just giving my impression. If you don't have signs of broken welds, and are planning on keeping close to stock power, you may not need the reinforcement. You definitely need poly subframe bushings, IE seem to be the most recommended. They not only make the car handle better, but protect against weld damage at the diff mount. I read here recently that no cars, that had zero previous signs of broken welds, developed problems after installing poly subframe bushings. Read up on it, and others will comment here.

[SteveG66]

Zellamay, thats good advice, I know it needs something in the back, either rear shock mounts, subframe bushings, or not sure. Although it sounds like subframe bushings as I've seen on youtube, assuming thats what it is. The car is at 103k miles, so i'm sure the underside will need all the bushings replaced at some point.

I'll be seeing you around, thanks!!!

[zellamay]

Don't try to figure out whether you "need" subframe bushings. (Unless of course the PO already put poly in there.) A brand new Z3/Z3M needs subframe bushings. The rubber bushings are what I would call a design flaw. You think your car handles great, if it's new to you, but after you put poly subframe bushings and Koni shocks on, you'll think it didn't handle all that great before. Mine has 102k on it. It took me a while to pull the trigger on the Koni shocks, because the stock ones were not all that bad. I was wrong to wait. The Konis made a nice difference in ride/handling. The rear shock mounts can be replaced at that time. Before you spend money, post what you intend to do, and people here are great about giving advice. It feels so bad to say "I did this", only to hear "you shouldn't have done that".
... I remembered one thing that I learned after the fact: (somebody) makes offset subframe bushings, which will compensate just a little for camber due to age. Mine seems to have a little of that, although my rear tires are wearing okay, and I have really wide 275s. So, I'm not sure whether offset bushings would be right for you, it may be that a little negative camber is good. I'm just saying I didn't know of that option when I did mine.

[Mr Bingley]

Hello and welcome SteveG66. Yes, unless you car is presently exhibiting signs of failure in the subframe/trunk floor/differential mount system, you do not necessarily need to jump to the RF subframe kit right away. Polyurethane subframe mounts may well put that off indefinitely. Other rear suspension wear components to replace at your miles and while you're at it are rear training arm bushings, rear shock mounts, rear shocks, rear sway bar end links and mount bushings. Your best bet is to spend some time researching our FAQ thread, and asking questions, before compiling a list of projects that need to be done. There are some common issues all new owners should address if they haven't been addressed all ready (and many will have been). For example--do your seats rock back and forth? Another good tool is past service records--did the PO give you any?

[SteveG66]

Great advice from both of you, thanks. Thats great advice about not jumping into the subframe kit, I'll definitely get it looked at in more detail. But definitely need to get under the car to see what's going on. I will definitely spend more time with the FAQ and then asking questions from there.

Ive seen reference to people renting the subframe bushing tool on this and various sites, if you know of anyone that will rent it please let me know. I'd like to do them myself if I've got a fairly correct tool, I have seen the DIY tool that guys have made which I might try to do myself if I can't find one to rent. Same with the RTAB....

Thanks again,
SteveG66

[rasmuw]

Ive seen reference to people renting the subframe bushing tool on this and various sites, if you know of anyone that will rent it please let me know. I'd like to do them myself if I've got a fairly correct tool, I have seen the DIY tool that guys have made which I might try to do myself if I can't find one to rent. Same with the RTAB....

The subframe bushing tool, if someone were to loan you one, will cost as much to ship two ways as it would to make your own. It's heavy.

[zellamay]

I made the subframe tool, per the instructions on this site, for about $65. I sold it through this site to a guy in CA. Shipping, AZ to CA, was around $13 (USPS medium flat rate box). Maybe he's reading this and will sell it after he's finished. (It's a one-time use thing hopefully).

[khammack]

,,,anyone know of anyone near Indianapolis that has done this kit well?

I had the same problem trying to find an installer here in Denver. I ended up finding a shop which builds race cars. I then printed out the very detailed instructions for the installation (Randy will send you a PDF copy). I let their installer read through it and he was very impressed with how detailed it was and said any good welder could install Randy's kit. I let him do the work and was very impressed with the results.

[s8ilver]

I had the same problem trying to find an installer here in Denver. I ended up finding a shop which builds race cars. I then printed out the very detailed instructions for the installation (Randy will send you a PDF copy). I let their installer read through it and he was very impressed with how detailed it was and said any good welder could install Randy's kit. I let him do the work and was very impressed with the results.

Wish I knew you were looking. SVE Autobody in Broomfield has done several installs. They were done with my car in a week and the work was flawless. It sounds like you found a good shop though. Who'd you go with?

[Randy Forbes]

I had the same problem trying to find an installer here in Denver. I ended up finding a shop which builds race cars. I then printed out the very detailed instructions for the installation (Randy will send you a PDF copy). I let their installer read through it and he was very impressed with how detailed it was and said any good welder could install Randy's kit. I let him do the work and was very impressed with the results.

Thanks Ken!

Another point to mention is that anyone doing the installation, professional or DIY alike, can always contact me if they hit a stumbling block; my cell # is included in the instructions.

Congratulations on getting the car, we've had our '99 M Rdstr since November of 2000. It was a CPO car with only 5400 miles on it__we're its third (3rd) owners__and it was just like new when I drove it home from Columbus back to Toledo, Ohio. If you'd have gotten it sooner, I was only a few hours away

[khammack]

Wish I knew you were looking. SVE Autobody in Broomfield has done several installs. They were done with my car in a week and the work was flawless. It sounds like you found a good shop though. Who'd you go with?

I had 3R (http://3rauto.com/) do my work. Much closer to my side of town (south suburbs). They did some other work for me at the same time, but it all only took a bit over a week.

[SteveG66]

Randy, thats the story of my life; Day late and a dollar short!!! It goes into a shop on the 23rd to get a look over to see what all needs to be done and we'll also get a good look to see what the welds and suspension look from below. I do know the car has had some work done in the rear just not sure what they did or fixed and to what extent. I may be reaching out to you when I get the report back to figure out next steps.!!!

Thanks for your contributions to this and also for your response!!

[SteveG66]

20180110_151458.jpg

Just thought I'd include a picture since I was finally able to get it washed!!! Paint is in great shape, had a chance last night to run the polisher on the hood a bit to see if I could get the swirl marks out and with the little light I've got I think I might have eliminated some.

This is going to be a fun car to own!!!

[Randy Forbes]

20180110_151458.jpg

Just thought I'd include a picture since I was finally able to get it washed!!! Paint is in great shape, had a chance last night to run the polisher on the hood a bit to see if I could get the swirl marks out and with the little light I've got I think I might have eliminated some.

This is going to be a fun car to own!!!

Wait until you see that Boston Green paint glistening in the sun! There are too many other colors that I personally like better for my own cars, but I always take notice when I have a BG one here.

[BimmerBreaker]

I loved my BG and miss that color from time to time... just enough to be "different" not so much that it was "out there" - a great color for the Z3M imo

Of course I don't mind being "out there" so I sold it

[magnetchief]

Beautiful color.
I had the misfortune to purchase a BG 2.8 with a hardtop.
The seller had resprayed it to Arctic Silver.
I still bought it.
Kept the hardtop and sold the 2.8.




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