I need some advice on a E39 528i I've acquired. M52b28, 255,000 miles
A friend of mine needed it gone out of his yard so I towed it to my house.
He said he was shifting from 2nd to 3rd casually when white smoke started billowing out of the exhaust. He said it wasn't overheating and immediately had it towed home where it sat for 3 years assuming that the I6 was 'blown'. I kept trying to convince him that the I6's dont just die unless one of its systems fails; IE, cooling and that he should look into it further - he never did, convinced it was done. Also keep in mind this was adult owned and driven by a BMW enthusiast.
I pulled the car into my driveway and immediately tried to start it, car just turned over. I then pulled the coil packs and then the plugs. 5 of the 6 plugs had oil on them. Cylinder plug 2 had a large amount of oil on it, I mean soaked. So I first checked the compression all the numbers looked good except for Cylinder 2, about 70 PSI. I then checked cyl 2 again it was significantly higher, like 225 PSI and Cyl 5 showed around 225 PSI as well, which I thought was strange.
I then proceeded to swap in clean plugs, installed the coil packs and boom! Car starts! No mis, just slight lifter ticker and revs nicely but the car is billowing white smoke out of the exhaust - Smells like oil, not antifreeze. From the start I was assuming that the valve cover gasket was leaking and dumping oil into the cylinder head, on top of the spark plug, and then eventually the piston and then blow out of the exhaust. I checked the new plug I installed in Cyl 2 and it had oil sitting on top of it.
So I'm torn between:
1. very leaky valve cover gasket
2. Head gasket failure
3. Rings
At this point, my friend isn't asking for any money and its all negotiable but I can't decide if I want to pay for it and fix it because I'm not 100% sure whats wrong. I'm also not sure what to offer him?
thoughts? Please?
Last edited by 328iFun; 01-11-2018 at 10:55 PM.
Im going to guess #2 headgasket. Drive it and i bet the plugs foul again.
Didnt read thoroughly my blind bet is placed.
When doing these tests check the crank case and coolant for noise/air.
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1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
I've bought a running m50 with a cracked head before and this car isn't displaying the same symptoms which is puzzling me. As usual, the m50 would blow coolant out of the reservoir and would run out of it within in minutes and overheat with a ton of white smoke out of the exhaust.
This car got up to temp, no bubbles in coolant, no oil in coolant but did have a white substance on cap - but it has been sitting for 3 years. The coolant did overflow when it wasn't hot but did not 'spew' out.
The car idled and revved great for about 30 minutes and the white smoke decreased
Maybe I'll take it for a spin tomorrow... So your thinking cracked head/ or gasket at the oil gallery leaking on top of the piston and then the bottom of the plug, correct?
Last edited by 328iFun; 01-11-2018 at 10:56 PM.
The valve cover gasket and spark plug well gaskets will only allow oil into the cavity around the spark plug. The only way for that oil to get into the combustion chamber and foul the plug is by removing the spark plug. If the combustion chamber is full of oil and the plugs are getting fouled, chances are either the headgasket is leaking oil into the combustion chamber ( a stretch), the rings are letting it past the piston or the valve stem seals are so bad that oil in the head is getting sucked into the combustion chamber.
What about the CCV guys?
I would love to get this thing back up and running. Would be great DD cleaned up
Give him $500.
That's a lot of turbo-E36 money Pbonsalb - a super nice diff
What are you thoughts? HG? I need to figure out what its going to cost me to fix it. And I'm not sure if I wanna swap a m52b28 into it but if its an HG I can do that in a day, 6-8hrs. I already have a cyl head
Last edited by 328iFun; 01-11-2018 at 11:30 PM.
Leakdown test /thread
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1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
Last edited by 328iFun; 01-11-2018 at 11:35 PM.
I say go beat the hell out of it. That is usually step number one for me. Then step two...is beat it a little harder. If it STILL has problems then maybe you need a fancy dancy leakdown thingy.
It’s a comfy daily driver and you seem to think the rest of the car is fine. You have an M52 you bought for a few hundred as I recall. Swap it in and enjoy. You may like the comfy cruiser so much you turbo it. The E39 is so much more substantial of a car than the E36. It makes a great driver. I had a 99 528i for 10 years. The auto trans is not great — like the E36 auto trans but manual swaps are easy. I had a manual.
Probably head gasket since you identified a cylinder. Possibly cracked head since you are burning coolant.
I think cracked cylinder 2 on the exhaust side of the head. Oil leaking on plugs valve seals. But I’d just rule out the oil separator first though.
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Get some fittings. connect air compressor to cylinder via spark-plug hole. Rotate
Block to close cylinder. Pressurize cylinder.
Watch for air.
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1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
I can look at this E39 and tell its better quality than my E36 but looks heavy
The owners of the car absolutely loved it and I think they would have had someone fix it if they had excess money to spend on it. I could tell they were upset to see it go
I told them that if it were the something simple like the HG or CCV, etc... I would fix the car and give it back to them because they've already invested a ton of money in replacements parts
for it that haven't even been installed. Plus the guys a veteran, and I try to help them out whenever I can and I've been in the same situation before, not fun
Now if its an engine swap type deal I'll probably buy the car and either look to be replacing the b28 or swapping in an m62 (but not sure whats all involved in the v8 swap yet)
The b28 I have in my garage is tore down to the block and is my blown turbo motor "piece of mind, rebuild." And it has around 320,000 miles on it...
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Yeah that would make sense. Usually something has to cause it, not just wear and tear. That's why I'm a bit optimistic. The I6's are usually bullet proof and you don't hear of engine failure often, especially from wear and tear
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What type of fitting zack?
Can I grab one at advance? New to this method. I'm guessing regulate air to Bentley spec or a bit higher?
Last edited by 328iFun; 01-12-2018 at 10:51 AM.
3500 lbs curb weight. Not as much as you think for such a substantial feeling car. If you want a comfy cruiser, you have to accept more weight. If you really like your gutted convertible as a daily driver than this car is not for you.
I really like my XL1200 as a DD but unfortunately winter and I don't get a long too well. Convertible doesn't bother me as long as I can hear the turbo spool
Don't get me wrong, the car is awesome. Would love to keep as a DD or let the fiance drive it. Would be even better to boost, I could probably throw a salad shooter on for $2.5 to $3k
I should try the most budgeted turbo build for fun
Cylinder 2 compression numbers likely jumped because oil may have drained into cylinder from leaking valve cover gasket increasing compression numbers. (After plug was removed, oil can sit in spark plug well and leak down into cylinder.) Or schrader valve on compression tester is sticking or going bad. Before condemning head gasket, check ccv. This valve can suddenly failed and cause this exact symptom. In lieu of having a manometer, remove oil fill cap with engine running and see if it has excessive vacuum with your hand or paper towel over fill cap.
Capital Driving Club Car # 102
How to turbo your car:
Step one. Install ecu and learn to tune and or have it tuned.
Step two. Install injectors and retune.
Step three. Install turbo parts and bits. get it running with out leaks. DO NOT DRIVE IT. Idling should be ok
Step four. Retune car
Step five enjoy
I wish I knew. I have a 98 528i that I hate and don't drive due to no LSD for wintertime shenanigans. I think there are some aftermarket carriers like a quaife and I think someone was machining e36 LSD carriers to go in an E39/E46 case. I think the only factory parts option is a E39 M5 rear subframe swap. BMW dropped the ball big time on that. Total BS.
Yeah, I was thinking there was some oil or gas in there when I was testing. Comp Tester is pretty new, don't think its sticking.
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I actually drove it today... This is a cool friggin car. I was geeking out when I put the thing in reverse the mirrors started moving by themselves. It is fully - loaded. M52 didn't have the grunt that's supposed to though. She was sluggish
Anyway, here's some smoke sadness for everyone to view, this thing is puffing. It doesn't puff until shes warm though... hmm:
Last edited by 328iFun; 01-12-2018 at 04:45 PM.
I'm pretty sure something like your approach to getting more traction in an E30 would also work in an E39, even if it is a bit involved.
On the original question, it sure sounds like a head gasket or rings to me. I'd buy it with the expectations of some significant engine work.
Last edited by Matt Cramer; 01-12-2018 at 04:46 PM.
Matt Cramer
1997 BMW 328i convertible, 1972 Chevy C10 pickup, 1966 Dodge Dart slant six
BMW - where "Why doesn't everybody build cars the way they do?" meets "Why can't they build a car the same way everyone else does it?"
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