I am about to dive into replacing the control arms, sway bar bushings and then tie rods on my 82 E21. I have the parts, I've read the detailed posts here on the project with the frequent line, " and torque to spec" but my Haynes manual does not have the torque specs. Any suggestions where I can find the specs necessary for the my front end project?
Haynes Page 169-170, Torque Wrench Settings, Front Suspension.
Randy
Last edited by 320iAman; 01-10-2018 at 02:35 PM.
Thanks a lot - I guess the naming confused me. Is the suspension arm = the control arm? Is the stabiliser the sway bar?
Yes
Randy
I don't see anything about the tie rod torque specs. Can you help? While your at it, I have seen your post on the WUR, it looks like a big job to get it out and replace it with a rebuild. Can you pass on any guidance?
Bolt size Low Grade Grade 8.8 Grade 10.9 Grade 12.9,,Bolts are generally marked on top saying 8.8,10.9,12.9.
6mm-----3-5ft/lbs,,,,, 7 ft /lbs 10 ft /lbs 12ft/lbs
8mm 8-12 17 24 29
10mm 15-22 33 47 57
12mm 39 59 83 100
14mm 60 101 131 158
16mm 60-94 146 202 247
18mm 60-130 201 283 340
20mm 166-188 285 401 482
Bolt Diameter/Wrench Size Metric(mm)
4/7
6/10
7
8/13
9
10/16
12
14
15
16/24
20/30
and so forth..look up Torque chart and go by that as a guide and the manuals..some torque in manuals is overstated,, so apply common sense.
Example 10 mm socket/6 mm bolt Grade 8.8 ~ 7ft lbs max
Randy
Last edited by 320iAman; 01-12-2018 at 12:39 AM.
The Wur IS harder on a late model, but it's all about making room (by taking all the other stuff off).
You should look for the "blue book" downloads. Search the forum for "manual" or blue book. There's definitely a couple; maybe in the FAQ, also. The Haynes is best for the early models. Blue book is more comprehensive; it's what the shops would use.
In fact, here's some links to share the folders on Dropbox. The manuals are broken up into parts for easy downloading.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s0xflq85a...IPNvDbcDa?dl=0
(The second one MAY be the same, I forget)
(It says 320-323, so I think it's different)
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gcnw62nhe...DEpLoWuHa?dl=0
Take negative cable off battery post,Yes remove things out of the way,good point,starter cable and so forth, remove the fuel lines on the fuel distributor that run to the WUR and mark them upper and lower and on the fuel distributor as well-if they get mismatched car will have a problem starting, then you'll need to get a set of hex socket wrenches or allen hex wrench set,,the WUR is attached to a heat sink plate by Hex screw # 8 in the diagram,, I use a 3/8 in drive metric hex socket with extensions to remove and install this fillister screw . You remove the EV1 electical connector to the WUR with a pick and dont lose the little wire on it, the little wire keeps the ev1 connector attached to the WUR Plug.
FireShot Capture 005 - RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts _ - https___www.realoem.com_bmw_enUS_showp.jpg
Randy
Last edited by 320iAman; 01-12-2018 at 12:35 AM.
Thanks, Guys - Very helpful info. I really appreciate the tips. I'm not to keen to work with fuel lines.
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