Two years ago when i had the transmission swap i had everything refreshed (by a shop) so they should have replaced everything. The leak never stopped, so recently i had the shifter seal replaced, still leaked, then i had the output shaft seal replaced, it still leaks. Now it appears that the shifter seal is still leaking, what gives? Do i have the shifter seal replaced AGAIN? FYI i have Redline gear/transmission oil.
What are your thoughts?
Make sure it's not the vent plug. I believe there is an over pressure vent plug near the shifter rod. Only if you say it had been dry between seal replacements, then it's probably your rod seal. Hopefully there isn't a defect on the rod like a sharp edge damaging the seal each time.
'88 635, '92 325IC
I think it's this. see attachedgetrag 265-6.JPGgetrag 265-6 r1.JPG
Also check that it is not overfilled.
'88 635, '92 325IC
Thanks but it’s definitely not that
Here is what it looks like
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I've never seen a significant leak like that.
Sorry... I know that's not much help.
OK, im going to take the car back this week. Realoem shows the same seal with 3 different part numbers. They are all available. Which one do i use??
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=23_0014
23121282394
23121222677
23128677736
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-elring-p...121282394~elr/
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...l/23128677736/
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-elring-p...121222677~elr/
Yes--As the oil is blown onto the spinning guibo, the oil is splashed above the guibo and accumulates above the guibo.
So, when you jack up the car, the oil that splashed above the spinning guibo, has time to drip on said guibo.
Not saying it's the valve, but knowing Jody, he's probably nailed it.
Ok, thanks. So if i jack up the car can access the inspect this valve with a small mirror? What's involved in replacing the valve? Must the transmission be lowered? or can i see it from inside the car through the shifter. Im tired of taking the car back to the shop, I need to know before taking it back again as the part does not seem to be in stock.
Last edited by n2bimmer; 01-14-2018 at 11:59 PM.
I would look through the shifter at first, if you can't see it from there jack it up and
use the mirror. I don't think you'll be able to change it without at least lowering the tranny somewhat.
Turner shows a plastic part that looks like it snaps in from the top.
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-4...uine-bmw-part/
I don't think the valve has any working parts. I it's just a vent hole.
I would want to know what's causing the ATM fluid to be pushed out from the vent valve.
Over filled, excessive pressure, maybe cracked vent valve or the lip of the valve isn't sealing anymore?
That's the best I can offer.
Hope someone can chime in with more knowledge.
Thank you very much.. i will try it out.
Thats strange. In your photo here the vent plug is further back (towards the engine) however in realoem for my car the vent plug is closer to the shifter. If this is right it is VERY likely that could be the leak.
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=23_0014
So i had the car back at the shop, they replaced the shifter seal again, and had the tranny looked over again and looked at the vent valve and appears to be ok and not leaking. However the tranny still leaks. Ralph over at bigcoupe suggested to ditch the synthetic oil and use non synthetic. What oil do you all recommend?
thanks
Hi,
Were is the leak coming from ? top ?
bottom ? seals ?
Don't hang on the oil....
Inside my Getrag 260 I have full synthetic
oil for decades as well on all my customer's
E34M5s at the shop no leaks.
Use Red Line MTL and you are fine.
A little trick for you. When you fill the oil
inside the tranny don't over fill it. When
you fill the oil from the side plug and
then you wait till the oil start coming over..
then let it drain till it stops. Reason being
is you don't want the oil to be in level of
the front and back seals. Most people do
over fill the tranny.
Rear Tail output Flange. I have found that
Flange warps in time and say if you still
replace the rear main seal then still leaks
then the output flange must be replaced.
Also the in put shaft seal is a major
leak on this tranny. With miles they Input
shaft bearing wares and it does make a play
and when the shaft bounces up and down
on throttle and off throttle and the oil finds
its way out...even the return line
is not helping....
Vent tube is also an area to look over but
knowing how good the vent system is design
its less likely.
Also, very important is how you press the
seals !!! They have to be very evenly pressed
in. It take time to press the seals in properly
and very even.
I am suggesting areas to look over. I don't
have the transmission in front of me so I can
see it all in details and pin point the problem.
Regards,
Anri
Last edited by sofiabghome; 01-30-2018 at 10:05 AM.
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Thanks Anri, the leak is coming from the top of the rear of the tranny, as you can see from the picture posted previously.
The oil should be at the right level as he removed the fill bolt and the oil did not pour out.
I don’t know what to say about the rear flange.
At this point i really would like some positive results.
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Hi,
Okay I sow the pics posted earlier.
Well you have to remove the guibo
and see were is the leak coming from.
Top small sector rod ? how far the seals
were pushed ?
Also when your Mechanic installed the
output flange and tight the big nut
did he use sealant to seal and block
the oil coming from inside to outside ?
I mean for the splines..were the flange
slides ?
There is something not done right !
Regards,
Anri
Last edited by sofiabghome; 01-30-2018 at 12:46 AM.
- E24 M6 88' Schwartz/Sparco Race Track Toy
- E24 M6 88' Schwartz/Nature. daily driver
- E24 M6 88' Royal Blue/Lotus White- Restoration project.
- E24 M6 88' Zinnoberrot/Natur. daily S38 B35 special engine project...
- E30 M3 Diamand Schwartz build S14-B2X.
- E28 M5 Black/Nature M-Technic project
- E31 '97 840Ci Black/Black CSI complete futures my cruiser soon S62-B50 6spd.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTV4asC3Bp0&t=14s
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyh...yUW-Q/featured
https://www.instagram.com/euroclassicmotors/
Im beginning to think that there may be a crack at the rear cover around the shifter rod. The mechanic thinks they are scratches though.
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Last edited by n2bimmer; 01-30-2018 at 08:54 PM.
Hi,
Okay, another area to look for.
I have seen many shops when they
replace the selector rod small seal
and some times if you are not patient
it is very very tricky to remove.
There is certainly a change you
scratch the sector shifter rod and
when you are going thru the gears
then and the rod goes back and
forth then the scratch area will held
oil and throws it outside.
Again I am not saying your mechanic
scratch the rod but area to look over.
Another area to pay attention is this
265s they have a lot bolts are going
through the casings and it is very
important to use the proper method
to re-seal the casings and the bolts.
From age and heat circles the aluminum
warps and it is possible when hot it
lifts off in some area were the oil is
finding its place to escape.
From the picture I think your flange is
all in oil so I think you clean the tranny
using brake cleaner and shop air to blow
all the oil and make it bone dry.
Then jump inside the let the engine
warm up and play with the revs then
let see.
I am sorry you have this oil leak issue
but we will find it.
Regards,
Anri
Last edited by sofiabghome; 01-30-2018 at 11:43 PM.
- E24 M6 88' Schwartz/Sparco Race Track Toy
- E24 M6 88' Schwartz/Nature. daily driver
- E24 M6 88' Royal Blue/Lotus White- Restoration project.
- E24 M6 88' Zinnoberrot/Natur. daily S38 B35 special engine project...
- E30 M3 Diamand Schwartz build S14-B2X.
- E28 M5 Black/Nature M-Technic project
- E31 '97 840Ci Black/Black CSI complete futures my cruiser soon S62-B50 6spd.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTV4asC3Bp0&t=14s
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyh...yUW-Q/featured
https://www.instagram.com/euroclassicmotors/
Thanks for the help guys..
im really hoping its not cracked. What are the chances of finding a cover???
I know aluminum can we be welded but welding this spot would be a nightmare around the rod.
Hi,
If it is crack no worries.
Remove the case, clean
it very very good and take
it a guy whom weld aluminum.
Then after you weld it, take
it to to Machine shop and you
can machine the whole back
to original spec.
It may require to make a
sleeve and cut up to size.
We are getting close.
Regards,
Anri
Last edited by sofiabghome; 01-31-2018 at 11:10 AM.
- E24 M6 88' Schwartz/Sparco Race Track Toy
- E24 M6 88' Schwartz/Nature. daily driver
- E24 M6 88' Royal Blue/Lotus White- Restoration project.
- E24 M6 88' Zinnoberrot/Natur. daily S38 B35 special engine project...
- E30 M3 Diamand Schwartz build S14-B2X.
- E28 M5 Black/Nature M-Technic project
- E31 '97 840Ci Black/Black CSI complete futures my cruiser soon S62-B50 6spd.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTV4asC3Bp0&t=14s
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyh...yUW-Q/featured
https://www.instagram.com/euroclassicmotors/
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