E61 Rear Tailgate Problem

[jomama]

I'm having issues with the hydraulic arm (left side) of my E61 tailgate which is not staying put. The main issue is that the ball and socket portion of the arm on the bottom, is constantly popping out. I purchased this:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...n/41627148797/

with the hope that a new ball will keep the arm from popping out. My question is if there's anything I can inject or place in the hydraulic arm socket to keep it from popping out again.

Here are some pics of the ball & socket:
20180109_124404.jpg
20180109_124412.jpg
20180109_124458.jpg
20180109_124513.jpg


I've also asked the guys here too:

https://5series.net/forums/e61-touri...5/#post1593236

[myles]

I've had the same issue previously. The ball alone didn't fix it and I had to get the new strut too. I couldn't find any other way to make it work.

[jomama]

More info here:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...1#post11987201

I'm in the process of drilling through the arm now - after snapping three 3/32" cobalt drill bits - I was finally able to punch through the ball. The arm is just as tough. Still not sure how to get the R pin into and through the arm and ball but first things first. Will update as I get through this (too cold to work right now).

[jomama]

Here's the ball I drilled: 20180116_173819.jpg

[jomama]

20180122_113223.jpg

Fixed. Bore a hole through ball and arm; then threw a pin to hold them in place. Thanks for the help!

[jomama]

Not fixed, pin broke. Does anyone have a DIY on replacing the hydraulic arm?

[myles]

That's a pain. From what I recall - remove the roof lining and d-pillar lining. Disconnect the hydraulic lines from the tailgate pump and the electrical sensor wiring that's integrated into the arm. The hydraulic lines run inside the d-pillar. Pull the old arm off the car body and tailgate and guide the lines up the d-pillar and out of the opening in the body near the tailgate hinge. Install the new one in reverse with a new ball-pin. Probably also worth replacing the helper arm on the other side because it probably doesn't have any strength left in it after this many years and has possibly contributed to the wear and failure of the problem arm.

[jomama]

That's a pain. From what I recall - remove the roof lining and d-pillar lining. Disconnect the hydraulic lines from the tailgate pump and the electrical sensor wiring that's integrated into the arm. The hydraulic lines run inside the d-pillar. Pull the old arm off the car body and tailgate and guide the lines up the d-pillar and out of the opening in the body near the tailgate hinge. Install the new one in reverse with a new ball-pin. Probably also worth replacing the helper arm on the other side because it probably doesn't have any strength left in it after this many years and has possibly contributed to the wear and failure of the problem arm.

You make it sound so easy, yet I've read horror stories on how hard this usually is. My biggest concern is disconnecting and connecting the hydraulic lines. Is this something a layman can do with normal tools? I have to replace the glass as it's all scratched up; the defroster doesn't work (probably a pinched line, fuse is fine) and since I have to get all three things done, I thought it would be easier just to have someone else do it. I replaced the rear door struts in my wife's Touareg a few years ago but that's not an automatic door. I also already replaced the right side strut for the exact reason you mention. It was old and rusty anyway. Any info would be much appreciated, I'd really like to save some $$ and tackle this on my own if possible.

[myles]

Disconnecting the hydraulic lines from the pump is possibly the easiest part. There is a small wire clip on each line that slides out of the way and then the line disconnects from the pump. The hydraulic line is permanently attached to the arm and the new arm comes with new lines.

Your defroster issue might be caused by broken wiring at the hinge. I had to repair all of the wiring at the hinge.

I think I've probably spent about AU$1200 in parts and about 10 hours fixing all the problems with my E61's tailgate. Its' been working perfectly for over a year.

[jomama]

My local mechanic said he could do the job. I'm gonna offer ~$1,600USD and see what he says. Part looks to be about $800 - that, plus labor is what I'm estimating. I think this would be the only part he needs: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part...&q=51247163662

[jomama]

Has anyone bought a used product from these guys?

AUTO PARTS LOCALWWW.AUTOPARTSLOCAL.COM
5220 Bullock Point B 103 Colorado Springs, CO 80919

888-524-4105 Ext 104
(Direct Number 720-408-0907)
Customer Service 844-305-2677

I put a request in for a used hydraulic arm for the rear door (~$900 new) and they got back to me within 15 mins to tell me they had the part for less than $200. Calls, text and an email. Scam? I find it hard to imagine that they found it so quickly but could just be paranoid.

[jomama]

Is this the entire job?

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-locks/E2znLKs

Doesn't seem that hard but guys on the blogs have me worried. Main concern is snapping a hydraulic line or something. Am I being over paranoid or is this really DIY job?

[myles]

That's all there is to it. I found it easier to lower the roof lining. The hydraulic lines are very flexible, so you'd have to be very rough with them to damage them.