Harman kardon retrofit

[Jbmw92]

Hi guys!

Is it possible to retrofit a harman kardon amplifier in a z3 that came without the harman kardon system?

thanks!

[z3forlife]

I'm sure you could but wonder why you would want to. The stock amp leaves a lot to be desired. What head unit do you have now.

[Blacklane]

The Harman Kardon amp is pretty poor with an incredible 10% total harmonic distortion. It also had to drive at least 8 different speakers tuned to specific frequencies. You would be far better off with just about any other system.

[Jbmw92]

I have the stock C43, I like the stock sound it doesn’t bother me, but a friend is selling me the harman amp so I was just wondering if it would make a difference

[z3forlife]

You can easily connect to any 5 channel amp to the stock head unit. Your speaker selection opens up too this way as I'm sure you'll want to replace the old ones.

[bluptgm3]

A factory CD43 (NLA) would help a great deal as it has more power in the head unit. I really like the factory look. You can still get them on eBay from the Rover product line, “M” badged to cover the Rover label.
Additionally, BSW offers a nice ‘package’ for the E36 Roadster, that I think you would be happy with.
I believe the wire loom is completely different for the HK sound system. Folks have pieced together there own speaker packages.
Test fit the amp, if it fits its yours!!


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[Blacklane]

If you really want to try this, I am fairly certain that you will need to add the HK wire harnesses and speakers. Look for two large connectors in the trunk behind the lining on the right. If you have those, it might be easy, if not, you will need to run signal wires from the head unit to the amp in the trunk, then from the amp to each of the speakers: two in each door, one in each kick panel, one behind each seat, and one subwoofer.

[Jbmw92]

If you really want to try this, I am fairly certain that you will need to add the HK wire harnesses and speakers. Look for two large connectors in the trunk behind the lining on the right. If you have those, it might be easy, if not, you will need to run signal wires from the head unit to the amp in the trunk, then from the amp to each of the speakers: two in each door, one in each kick panel, one behind each seat, and one subwoofer.

seems like a lot of work, I’m starting to think it may not be worth it, thanks!

[Jbmw92]

A factory CD43 (NLA) would help a great deal as it has more power in the head unit. I really like the factory look. You can still get them on eBay from the Rover product line, “M” badged to cover the Rover label.
Additionally, BSW offers a nice ‘package’ for the E36 Roadster, that I think you would be happy with.
I believe the wire loom is completely different for the HK sound system. Folks have pieced together there own speaker packages.
Test fit the amp, if it fits its yours!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Been trying to get my hands on a CD43, but haven’t found one at the right price, called the dealer but Im not spending 700 on a head unit, eBay is a great option I’ll see if I can find one, I don’t want to mess with the factory look the head unit really blends in pretty good, thanks!

[DiqueTico]

I have a parts car that came with the HK system but was also upgraded with the bavsound stage 1 system. Was thinking to transfer everything (including sub) over to my Z that didnt come with the HK, will update on how it goes.


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[nahvkolaj]

I have a parts car that came with the HK system but was also upgraded with the bavsound stage 1 system. Was thinking to transfer everything (including sub) over to my Z that didnt come with the HK, will update on how it goes.


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I’m curious to know how the Bavsound kit sounds. I'm considering it as a replacement for my roadster's HK kit.

[rasmuw]

I’m curious to know how the Bavsound kit sounds. I'm considering it as a replacement for my roadster's HK kit.

I like the Bavsound Stage One kit. It comes with speakers for behind the seats, kick panel speakers, and tweeters for the door. The cones behind the seats in my car had completely separated from the frame. The kicks wouldn't hold any bass. The Bavsound speakers are much more substantial. I haven't yet removed the door cards to do the tweeters and I am already very happy with the sound. The kit isn't cheap, but it's far less expensive than building a new system.

- - - Updated - - -

Been trying to get my hands on a CD43, but haven’t found one at the right price, called the dealer but Im not spending 700 on a head unit, eBay is a great option I’ll see if I can find one, I don’t want to mess with the factory look the head unit really blends in pretty good, thanks!

The Rover CD43 run half the cost of the BMW labeled units. I've not seen the BMW units sell on Ebay for more than $350. Either way, make sure that your choice comes with the little flaps that cover the mounting screws, doesn't have any missing pixels, has a good volume knob (available for around $20 if you need a replacement), and has a code.

[PetemossHK]

if you have a subwoofer behind the seats then you could reconfig to the harman system.

as to the comments about it's limpness, i worked for the harman engineer that designed the hk bmw systems and built several bmw prototypes including the z3, e39, etc. the two door speakers were space limited by the trim, the kick panel speakers were bmw mandated in size and specs, the subwoofer was space limited to an absurd amount. we were heavily constrained by bmw. to get that system where it got was nothing short of genius by the engineer.

that being said, i just bought a '00 2.3 (and joined the forum) that has the phillips system in it and do not plan to swap to hk oe. harman consumer is where this ride is going.

[Mr Bingley]

I have the Harmon Kardon single amp system in my '98 M Roadster with BSW speakers in the kick panels, doors tweeters, and mids behind the seats, the door high-mids are factory. the sub is an Integral Audio 80S (now they call it an 81S) separately driven by a Fosgate amp. The head is a CD43 with bluetooth integration and car kit via a GROM BT3. I love this system and it produces very clean sound. With the HK amp relieved of the task of driving the sub, it has plenty of power for the rest of the system. The sub is the weak point in the HK system. Once the system is bluetooth integrated, it is every bit as up to date as a new system--with pretty much everything controlled through my phone, and the CD43 being just a (descent) pre-amp. Other than connecting to my phone, I really don't want anything from a head other than volume, fade, balance, and bass/treble controls. And it looks right in the car.

[MORRIE]

Shortly after purchasing my Z3 in 2006, the sub woofer began to crackle. From what information I found on this forum, it was commonplace for this to happen. I wanted the car stock as much as possible and wanted to keep the Harman Kardon head unit. I found this system and have been pleased with the results. It's a Carver Sunfire kit...includes sub and amp. plug and play system. It was a simple install and I have enjoyed several hours of great sound. Back in the day, I upgraded my home sound system to Carver. It's well made and puts out a clean sound. So, I had no problem going with Carver for the Z3. Here it is...

[jimmyfloyd]

Been trying to get my hands on a CD43, but haven’t found one at the right price, called the dealer but Im not spending 700 on a head unit, eBay is a great option I’ll see if I can find one, I don’t want to mess with the factory look the head unit really blends in pretty good, thanks!

Wish i saw this before or thought to list it here. I recently listed one from a 96/97 Z3 on ebay, but it has a bid already so I can't cancel it. I too prefer the factory look, but the PO hacked at the harness a little bit too much so I decided to stick with what they installed.

I am interested in what the bavsound kit is too. never heard of it.

[rasmuw]

The Bavsound kit provides replacement speakers for the kick panels, the speakers immediately behind the seats, and for the tweeters in the doors. The kit is designed to work with the existing factory amp so that wattage and resistance match. The speakers are of higher quality than what you currently have from the factory, especially given the age. Some of us have found speaker cones which are no longer attached to the frames. Bavsound doesn't have a drop-in subwoofer for a Z3.

[Mr Bingley]

The Bavsound kit provides replacement speakers for the kick panels, the speakers immediately behind the seats, and for the tweeters in the doors. The kit is designed to work with the existing factory amp so that wattage and resistance match. The speakers are of higher quality than what you currently have from the factory, especially given the age. Some of us have found speaker cones which are no longer attached to the frames. Bavsound doesn't have a drop-in subwoofer for a Z3.

BSW (Bavsound) used to include the Integral Audio 80S paired with a Rockford Fosgate P200/2 amp as an option for a sub upgrade before Integral Audio stopped making it. They did not pick it back up once Integral started making the 81S a couple of years ago. I can highly recommend it--it's not cheap by any stretch, but it is a remarkable improvement in bass--8" Alumapro driver in a perfect drop in box that looks about as factory as you could imagine. Some assembly required.

[rasmuw]

BSW (Bavsound) used to include the Integral Audio 80S paired with a Rockford Fosgate P200/2 amp as an option for a sub upgrade before Integral Audio stopped making it. They did not pick it back up once Integral started making the 81S a couple of years ago. I can highly recommend it--it's not cheap by any stretch, but it is a remarkable improvement in bass--8" Alumapro driver in a perfect drop in box that looks about as factory as you could imagine. Some assembly required.

I wonder why BSW stopped offering the sub kit. You are correct about the cost!

Where did you mount the amplifier? Did you use the same circuit as the HK amp to power the Fosgate? How did you wire the input and output to the Fosgate? My sub enclosure is missing the skinny plastic pieces at the back that accepts the tongues from the top piece--are those necessary for the installation? I read the installation FAQ but the picture does not appear to exactly match my enclosure.

[Mr Bingley]

I wonder why BSW stopped offering the sub kit. You are correct about the cost!

Where did you mount the amplifier? Did you use the same circuit as the HK amp to power the Fosgate? How did you wire the input and output to the Fosgate? My sub enclosure is missing the skinny plastic pieces appaaat the back that accepts the tongues from the top piece--are those necessary for the installation? I read the installation FAQ but the picture does not appear to exactly match my enclosure.

The amp is pretty small. I mounted it under the passenger's side of the trunk mat where the empty jack and tool carrier is. It fit perfectly under a steel support that is right there and is completely concealed. I used the foam the amp came in to fix it in place which is all it needed. I wired a cooling fan and thermoswitch in there to keep it cool. The amp receives its signal from the input to the HK amp (which I cut at the HK amp), which is line level to begin with, and which I simply wired to a set of RCA cables. It sends its output bridged via the factory sub wiring--BSW had a really good set of instructions at the time. If I recall properly, the instructions said to cut those skinny plastic pieces you are missing in the sub enclosure anyway. Here is a thread you might find useful at the beginning. I bought an optional sub level control and mounted that in the cabin.

[rasmuw]

The amp is pretty small. I mounted it under the passenger's side of the trunk mat where the empty jack and tool carrier is. It fit perfectly under a steel support that is right there and is completely concealed. I used the foam the amp came in to fix it in place which is all it needed. I wired a cooling fan and thermoswitch in there to keep it cool. The amp receives its signal from the input to the HK amp (which I cut at the HK amp), which is line level to begin with, and which I simply wired to a set of RCA cables. It sends its output bridged via the factory sub wiring--BSW had a really good set of instructions at the time. If I recall properly, the instructions said to cut those skinny plastic pieces you are missing in the sub enclosure anyway. Here is a thread you might find useful at the beginning. I bought an optional sub level control and mounted that in the cabin.

From where did you draw the power for the amp? The newer version of the amp has a 30 amp fuse in it, so it seems it requires a reasonably heavy duty source. Was the remote wire shared with the HK amp?

The remote volume in the back of the console is a cool idea. Was that the PLC2 Punch level control that you adapted into the space? I already have a defroster switch, USB charger, and aux input there so the spaces are used up. If I weren't to install the control, how often do you find yourself changing the level?

I like your amp location, but I've opted to buy a jack to put in the tool bin thinking it might be helpful to take a wheel off to repair a flat with a gummy worm. Do you think the amp might fit on the left side opposite the HK amp, or maybe between the convertible top motor and the tail light?

The amp is no longer available but there are several options on Ebay. Now all I have to do is figure out if I want to spend $700 on the sub.

[z3forlife]

The battery is right there in the trunk. Get your amp power there. You can find sub enclosures that are similar in layout as the 80s but at much lower cost on eBay. Attachment 627422
You can wrap it any way you want.

[Mr Bingley]

From where did you draw the power for the amp? The newer version of the amp has a 30 amp fuse in it, so it seems it requires a reasonably heavy duty source. Was the remote wire shared with the HK amp?

The remote volume in the back of the console is a cool idea. Was that the PLC2 Punch level control that you adapted into the space? I already have a defroster switch, USB charger, and aux input there so the spaces are used up. If I weren't to install the control, how often do you find yourself changing the level?

I like your amp location, but I've opted to buy a jack to put in the tool bin thinking it might be helpful to take a wheel off to repair a flat with a gummy worm. Do you think the amp might fit on the left side opposite the HK amp, or maybe between the convertible top motor and the tail light?

The amp is no longer available but there are several options on Ebay. Now all I have to do is figure out if I want to spend $700 on the sub.

I always draw amp power directly from the battery--be sure to use an appropriate in-line fuse. I don't remember how the remote was wired. Yes, the Punch level control adapted through a blank switch plate. USB and AUX can share a switch plate fwiw. I change the level often enough to be glad I can. I have AAA+ Platinum and don't worry about fixing a flat on the side of the road--If I'm driving my M I'm not going anywhere I have to be on time. I don't know if the amp would fit on the left side, except that later two-amp HK systems have one on the left side, so there should be space. Both sides are about the same distance from the battery. Too bad the P200/2 is NLA--it's a good little amp. I'm sure there are far better amps out there now in a similar form factor anyways.