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Thread: e46 rough engine with low fuel

  1. #1
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    e46 rough engine with low fuel

    My cars check engine light has been going on and off for the past month or so and seems to start up and run fine even in the freezing cold here in Maryland, but occasionally, id say about once every week or two, the engine will cut power and act very rough at idle. also the most recent time this happened smoke/ steam seemed to be coming from the top left part of the underside of the engine but I read into that and am thinking ill change the valve gasket. This seems to happen mainly when the car has less the 60 or so miles left in its range meter though it has happened with the gas higher but hasn't lasted long( probably for only a half mile range of driving). the car has 198k on it and was given by grandparents at around 188k after they took good care of it. So far I have replaced the coolant expansion tank, changed the oil, changed the fuel pump, replaced rear trailing arm brackets/bushings, oil housing gasket, two coil packs, and all spark plugs. The traction control light/ brake light also stay on but that's not something I'm too concerned about.

    The codes its throwing are
    P0313 twice
    P0300 twice
    P1343
    P1344
    P1353
    P0128
    P0174
    P0171

    Overall I'm thinking cleaning the injectors, changing the fuel filter, the coil packs on the cylinders with issues and also the thermostat because that's what code 0128 says, and the valve gasket cover like I stated before and hoping it will be running smoothly for the next six months or so?? but any advice will be appreciated. the car also shows some symptoms of the throttle body having issues but as I understand that's uncommon and hopefully isn't an issue. I'm young and on a relatively tight budget so looking to spend under 200$ for parts.

    any input is greatly appreciated

  2. #2
    dworthy's Avatar
    dworthy is offline Wagon meister :) BMW Tech Expert
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    Welcome to the Forum!

    Well off of two of those codes you have a vacuum leak: P0174; P0171 Find the vacuum leak with either a smoke test or visual inspection of every piece of rubber on the intake to include the CCV.

    You have a multi-misfire code, but not cylinder specific, so what I would do is clear the codes, and see what comes back.

    Yes having the DSC/ABS light on can cause running problems, so do worry about it and have the codes pulled.
    Darin
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  3. #3
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    Is the fuel pump original? I’m betting your fuel pump is soft failing. That means it can’t pump the required volume of fuel at the required pressure, 50psi. That’s why you’re getting misfires. Get a Siemens/VDO pump from bmaparts. It sells them for the best price. Also, beca advised that you need to change the fuel filter. It’s located under the car, under the driver’s seat, onboard of a frame rail. The filter must be made by either Mahle or Keyser.

    Yes, you have vacuum leakS. Have the intake smoke tested to find all of the leakS. Try www.bimrs.org to find a shop in your area.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarcoZandrini View Post
    Is the fuel pump original? I’m betting your fuel pump is soft failing. That means it can’t pump the required volume of fuel at the required pressure, 50psi. That’s why you’re getting misfires. Get a Siemens/VDO pump from bmaparts. It sells them for the best price. Also, beca advised that you need to change the fuel filter. It’s located under the car, under the driver’s seat, onboard of a frame rail. The filter must be made by either Mahle or Keyser.

    Yes, you have vacuum leakS. Have the intake smoke tested to find all of the leakS. Try www.bimrs.org to find a shop in your area.
    the fuel pump is bosch but yes planning on changing fuel filter i stated that on originally ill be sure to get one of the brands you said thank u

  5. #5
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    three of the codes are cylinder specific, 1343 is misfire cyl 1 fuel cut off, 1344 is cyl 2 misfire during start, and 1353 cyl 6 fuel cut off

  6. #6
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    As was said, you have multiple random misfires, quite possibly caused by intake leaks,
    or insufficient fuel pressure. Clear codes, Smoke test for leaks, if none found- test fuel pressure at fuel rail.




  7. #7
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    A bit of info about fuel pumps the pump sits in the gas and is cooled by that. When you run your tank super low fuel pump is now not in as much gas, that's not good. So quit running you gas down so low

  8. #8
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    You need to test the fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Item #2 in the link is the cap for the test valve. Pressure needs to be 50psi at all engine speeds. Btw, the only brand of fuel pump that goes in these cars is a Siemens/VDO pump. The fuel filter needs to be made by either Mahle or Keyser.

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=13_0900

  9. #9
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    so overall, fix the vacuum leaks first, then check the pressure at the fuel rail and if its off ill replace the pump and filter, but if it's on point what else should I check for? The fuel pump I got is 100% Bosch I checked my history on the website I order parts from (rock auto). But also I won't run it below 150 miles left I the gas range because problems only seem to occur under 100 miles left.
    Last edited by Gavinbecker48; 01-07-2018 at 05:59 PM.

  10. #10
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    Vacuum leaks throw all scans.......Easy to check..pass a propane torch (unlit of course) over all engine room vacuum hoses ....If while a warmed engine responds momentarily with a higher RPM, that vac hose is likely compromised and needs to be replaced ..Also, you can add a can of 'Seafoam' to the gas tank...drive the whole tank...see if it ends your issues... before getting more involved as mentioned above.

  11. #11
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    Symptoms suggest the other pump:http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=16_0373
    The left side fuel level sender could be faulty or the siphon is not equalizing the fuel level. Here are some resistance tests to perform.
    Left side level sender (16116768788):
    Empty: 70ohms
    Full: 310.2 ohms
    Right side level sender:
    Empty: 70 ohms
    Full: 394.5 ohms
    If the resistance does not match the spec then it could be bad, inspect the sending unit. When removing both the fuel pump and the driver side level sender if the fuel level is different from one side to the other check the fuel siphon pump (16146755880).




  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    Symptoms suggest the other pump:http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=16_0373
    The left side fuel level sender could be faulty or the siphon is not equalizing the fuel level. Here are some resistance tests to perform.
    Left side level sender (16116768788):
    Empty: 70ohms
    Full: 310.2 ohms
    Right side level sender:
    Empty: 70 ohms
    Full: 394.5 ohms
    If the resistance does not match the spec then it could be bad, inspect the sending unit. When removing both the fuel pump and the driver side level sender if the fuel level is different from one side to the other check the fuel siphon pump (16146755880).
    So I have some similar symptoms, 2003 325i 160k. (please keep in mind this is a project/track car) I have smoke checked this car 3 times, but willing to do it a 4th. New plugs, unknown life on coils, pump and filter. I was hoping a new filter would solve this problem because I get multiple cylinder misfires with fuel cutoff under high load or high RPM situations. Car will have no issues with idle. My gauges for the fuel level do not work, so could that be a pump? Also, I have just now gotten a P0336 added to the fuel cutoff codes. Related or time to replace that sensor too....?

  13. #13
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    Try performing a diagnostic scan with something better than a generic P-code scan tool.
    For a good BMW scan tool,I feel you have 3 options:




  14. #14
    dworthy's Avatar
    dworthy is offline Wagon meister :) BMW Tech Expert
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    +1

    The thing to remember about fuel pumps in these BMW's is they are in the tank. So what does that mean to you? Well it uses the fuel to cool the pump down, and when you get below 1/4 of a tank, it starts to expose the fuel pump to the air in the tank, will less fuel to cool down the pump. People who regularly run the tank down to the "Oh Crap" low fuel light shorten the life of the pump.

    So what you need to do is test the fuel pressure at the higher rpm to see if the pressure is dropping. If so I would first replace the filter, and if no change then the pump next. So get a fuel pressure gauge, attach it to the schrader valve on the fuel rail, and clip it under the wiper blade then go for a drive.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) A Hooptie!
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/375k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 motor, such a beater, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
    M-Flight Member

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by dworthy View Post
    +1

    The thing to remember about fuel pumps in these BMW's is they are in the tank. So what does that mean to you? Well it uses the fuel to cool the pump down, and when you get below 1/4 of a tank, it starts to expose the fuel pump to the air in the tank, will less fuel to cool down the pump. People who regularly run the tank down to the "Oh Crap" low fuel light shorten the life of the pump.

    So what you need to do is test the fuel pressure at the higher rpm to see if the pressure is dropping. If so I would first replace the filter, and if no change then the pump next. So get a fuel pressure gauge, attach it to the schrader valve on the fuel rail, and clip it under the wiper blade then go for a drive.
    That is the plan. I have a fuel filter, wanna replace it. I have a fuel pressure test kit coming Thursday.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    Try performing a diagnostic scan with something better than a generic P-code scan tool.
    For a good BMW scan tool,I feel you have 3 options:
    Like these?: I have diagnostic reports, cold start idle logs, highway cruise logs, warm idle logs all from OBD Fusion on this Drive link here:
    https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...bR?usp=sharing

  17. #17
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    That's ok for diagnostic logging,
    but you need a tool that accesses actual BMW-codes,
    not just generic emissions related P-codes.
    A BMW specific scan tool can communicate with all BMW modules.
    I use Torque pro myself for emissions issues.




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