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Thread: Removing A-pillar trim without breaking it

  1. #1
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    Removing A-pillar trim without breaking it

    I need to replace my HVAC blower motor soon (it is squealing like crazy). I did this once on a 530i that I owned a few years ago and it wasn't too bad but I ended up breaking both of my A-pillar trim pieces. They were so brittle, there was almost no way I wasn't going to break them. Does anyone have any tips on how to remove them without breaking them? I really don't want to have to buy new ones, I'm sure they aren't going to be cheap since they are Alcantara. I have the usual plastic trim panel tools. If there's a certain one I should use in a certain way, I'm all ears.
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    Dont forget the torx screw behind the HFS plastic cap. Just be real gentle, they are all brittle at this age, if it breaks the tabs, repair it with a good epoxy and some fine patch of fiberglass, the tabs that don’t break, strenghthen them with epoxy and fiberglass too.
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  3. #3
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    Airbag cover tab

    remove torx screw

    pull the door seal from roof to footwell

    then grab it midway up the pillar by the door seal side and rotate toward front windshield while also pulling out near roof line. you want to get the midpoint tab pulled straight out toward the windshield then you can pull it up and out from the dash / a pillar joint

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    Quote Originally Posted by BimmrMeUpSnotty View Post
    Dont forget the torx screw behind the HFS plastic cap. Just be real gentle, they are all brittle at this age, if it breaks the tabs, repair it with a good epoxy and some fine patch of fiberglass, the tabs that don’t break, strenghthen them with epoxy and fiberglass too.
    That's not a bad idea. I can get the epoxy no problem but where can you buy small amounts of fiberglass?

    Quote Originally Posted by Grim Reaper View Post
    Airbag cover tab

    remove torx screw

    pull the door seal from roof to footwell

    then grab it midway up the pillar by the door seal side and rotate toward front windshield while also pulling out near roof line. you want to get the midpoint tab pulled straight out toward the windshield then you can pull it up and out from the dash / a pillar joint
    I'll try that too. Thanks!
    '14 Evora S - Chrome Orange/Ebony
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    '15 M235i xDrive - Mineral Grey/Black

  5. #5
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    Auto paint section at the parts stores, hobby shop, marine boat supply, the marine boat supply and good hardware stores will have different weight glass, they also have a very good epoxy called Marine Tex, I have used that stuff with very good results from my old boats to fixing my motorcycle fairings, Marine Tex sands just like wood, and can be drilled and tapped for threads even! Look it up on Google, they have it in white or grey, no difference in strength.
    Set the controls for the heart of the sun

  6. #6
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grim Reaper View Post
    Airbag cover tab

    remove torx screw

    pull the door seal from roof to footwell

    then grab it midway up the pillar by the door seal side and rotate toward front windshield while also pulling out near roof line. you want to get the midpoint tab pulled straight out toward the windshield then you can pull it up and out from the dash / a pillar joint
    That's pretty much it. To OP's question - no, no special tool helps with that part really.

    Mine have been in and out about 100 times it seems, maybe I have one broken tab but maybe not even.... But since it has the torx screw those tabs aren't as critical as for some other trim parts.

    Really those are the least of your worries for the blower motor job (yay fun! like sunroofs - I did mine twice it was so enjoyable! am I a glutton for punishment or just an incompetent mechanic? Yes and yes! )

    To reiterate or clarify what Reaper says, pull straight out away from the pillar first, then as soon as that tab comes out, the bottom kinda has a 'rotate to free up' type of deal. Don't force it and it should be fine.
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    That's pretty much it. To OP's question - no, no special tool helps with that part really.

    Mine have been in and out about 100 times it seems, maybe I have one broken tab but maybe not even.... But since it has the torx screw those tabs aren't as critical as for some other trim parts.

    Really those are the least of your worries for the blower motor job (yay fun! like sunroofs - I did mine twice it was so enjoyable! am I a glutton for punishment or just an incompetent mechanic? Yes and yes! )

    To reiterate or clarify what Reaper says, pull straight out away from the pillar first, then as soon as that tab comes out, the bottom kinda has a 'rotate to free up' type of deal. Don't force it and it should be fine.


    Thanks for the feedback guys, that helps a lot. I'll report back after I do this.
    '14 Evora S - Chrome Orange/Ebony
    '02 M5 - Carbon Black/Silverstone
    '15 M235i xDrive - Mineral Grey/Black

  8. #8
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    Replaced my blower motor last weekend. That was fun. I followed your guys' advice and successfully removed the driver's side A-pillar without breaking it. Passenger side broke just a small piece off of the middle tab. It still holds just fine but I saved the broken bit and will probably go back and epoxy it back on at a later date.
    '14 Evora S - Chrome Orange/Ebony
    '02 M5 - Carbon Black/Silverstone
    '15 M235i xDrive - Mineral Grey/Black

  9. #9
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    Glad it went well. Not sure epoxying will work that great, or is it too important tho'. That job blows, eh? After doing it twice I can knock it out pretty fast... half day or so... but hopefully won't ever have to do it again. The big pro tip is using a nice cordless mini-bitdriver, and tracking all the fasteners. Makes any interior work involving screws and bolts go SOOO much faster.
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
    2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

    Former:

    1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
    1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)


  10. #10
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    Yeah, it was my second time doing that job (different E39s at least) but it had been so long since I did the last one that it didn't really go any faster. The DIY on this forum is very helpful at least, even though the pictures are gone.
    '14 Evora S - Chrome Orange/Ebony
    '02 M5 - Carbon Black/Silverstone
    '15 M235i xDrive - Mineral Grey/Black

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