Hey guys - came out to the car today - haven't driven it for about 9 or 10 days. I unlock w/ key and turn ignition and the radio works very well, blower works very well, but no crank. When it's cold out my interior lights would flash but I just grew to appreciate the disco effect. Now, though, the light don't even flash. I am thinking it's probably the GM and or fusible link. I even tried jumping the car just to make sure it wasn't a battery situation. OBC reads 13.6 volts when jumping and yet still no crank.
Does anyone know the proper GM I can pick up to replace? Would the GM out of my '92 525 work in my '95 525?
Edit: Thinking this through more, I am leaning toward borked GM capacitors. I figure for $5.34 from Newark I'll replace the capacitors.
I've ordered:
Thanks all
Last edited by 5mall5nail5; 01-12-2018 at 12:52 PM.
Nothing I can think of in the GM to prevent cranking
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
Maybe a dead starter?
If not fusible link I'd be thinking EWS. If jumping the two yellow black wires at the module gets it cranking then you have your answer.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
If your wipers or seats work then not your fusible link.
Andy
Most cars have 2 fusible links, 1 which feeds the fuse box and relays under driver seat and which covers wipers etc, and the other one goes straight to the e-box, discussed here https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...=fusible+links
For E32 details on my website, see Photos and locations of E32 fusible links under Reference data>>> Data - Electrical
FUSIBLE LINKS A & B IN E32
X6400 is the power post inside the E box. It feeds only DME loads.
Page 1361-01 for M30 and 1367-00 for M70. Fusible Link A is 50 Amps.
Page 0670-10 rear power distribution box Fusible B is 80 Amps. It feeds all the Rear Power Box loads
pic of Fusible Link A
pic: Fusible Link A is under the heatshrink
pic Fusible Link B with cover closed. Just squeeze the cover to open.
pic Fusible Link B with cover open.
pic Fusible Link B Fusible Link A
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Its not fusible link guys - I can use a heat gun on the rear power distribution box and get the locks working and car to start.
However, I just removed the GM and its a unit ending in 571 and looks completely different then the units I've seen posted for repair. Sigh.
It looks like there might be similar capacitor values to the other modules I've seen posted, but not sure. Also, there appear to be only 4 caps not 5.
Of course I've got the caps here to replace but was expecting the other version. Hrmph. Shogun any tips?
Hmmm.
I'm near certain the GM can't inhibit starting. No diagrams handy now to check.
Just a thought though; there is a big wire bundle of red power wires under the rear dist box that corrodes right at the end where they all join in a very large crimp. Any moisture back there? Ever? I've seen that bundle cause all sorts of weird behavior, never a no start but there is always a first. Might be worth a look, you'll need to unravel it to tell.
Last edited by ross1; 01-06-2018 at 01:41 PM.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
From the EWS documentation I see this:
From the ETM, GM pins 16 & 21 are sending something to the EWS II module.
System Components
Door Lock Switch
The door lock switch provides a 12V (High) signal to the GM when the vehicle is locked from
the outside. The switch also provides a Low signal to the GM when the vehicle is unlocked.
General Module
The GM receives the lock and unlock signals from the door lock switch and signals the
DME with a 12V High signal when the vehicle is double locked or with a Low signal when
this vehicle is unlocked.
Board Computer
The Board Computer (BC) through its’ code function provides a High signal to the DME to
disallow vehicle operation or a Low signal to allow vehicle operation.
DME
The DME looks for a High/Low signal from the BC or GM and dependent on the signal, it
will either allow or prevent vehicle operation.
demet
My car (4/93 M60) starts, runs, and drives with no GM at all. Unless '95-specific EWS, that's not your problem. The above post suggests however that that's it.
Back there is also an anti-theft module (which on my car also can be absent and still run, but 95 may be different).
Last edited by moroza; 01-06-2018 at 05:25 PM.
Yeah it's a 95 with EWS - at least it has the sensor that goes around the ignition switch. Like I said, if I explicitly warm up the GM, the car starts.
I cut out some capacitors today on the module I have. I ordered the units for the other version of GM so I don't have all values on hand. Once they come in, I'll finish soldering those in and see if it fixes it. If not, I'll try a second hand GM.
Can I pull the GM out of my '92 and use it?
AFAIK the only "hard" incompatibility with GMs is that early black ones will damage later lock actuators (or the other way around). If both are green then you should be safe.
There was a TIS for that:
SUBJECT: New General Modules (GM) MODELS: 7 Series (E32), 5 Series (E34)
- Vehicles produced 9/91 and later
Situation: New general modules have been used in production since September 1991 in all E32 and E34 models. The software has been completely revised (details of these revisions are found in the attachment to this Service Information Bulletin). Part numbers have been changed to reflect these revisions, as listed below, as of September 1991. Model Part Number E32 61 35 8 356 095, E34-up to 61 35 8 356 095 9/91 production, E34-9/91 and later production 61 35 8 355 812,
Note: E34 vehicles produced 9/91 and later have different central locking system components from earlier E34 vehicles; therefore, P/N 61 35 8 355 812 is used only in E34 vehicles produced 9/91 and later, P/N 61 35 8 356 095 can be used in E34 vehicles produced prior to 9/91, and in all E32 vehicles. When the general module is connected to the vehicles electrical system, it will recognize (and store in memory) the vehicle configuration, such as:
- with/without power windows
- With/without power sunroof
- with/without wiper contact pressure control
- with/without headlight washers
Important Information
All general modules must be plugged in only after disconnecting the vehicle's battery. If the vehicle's battery is connected when the GM is installed, undefined signal contacts can cause an incorrect vehicle configuration to be stored, resulting in the impairment of
one or more of the above-mentioned systems. If one or more of the GM functions are impaired in this matter, the GM can be "cleared" by disconnecting the vehicle's battery for at least ten seconds.
GM Function Changes E32/E34 (Beginning with 9/91 Production)
- Repeat and Time interlock for headlight washers:
· Time interlock: 3 minutes
· Headlight washing at fifth windshield washing after time interlock.
- Intensive washing pump operating time reduced from 3 to 2 seconds
- Minimum interval for intermittent wiping is programmable down to 2 seconds (previously 3 seconds)
- Increased wiper contact pressure during windshield washing cycle is now also provided during dry wiping portion of the cycle (previously only during washer pump operation).
- Previously, the GM would react to opposing signals (eg., an unlock signal while trying to lock, as with a defective microswitch) by carrying out the first command, then the opposing command (e.g., locking, followed immediately by unlocking).
Repeating the first command then results in carrying out that command (e.g., try to lock again, and locking is now carried out).
This function ("Asynchronous Position") is omitted in the new GM for all E32 models and E34 models prior to 9/91 (P/N 61 35 8 356 095), and remains in the new GM for E34 models after 9/91 (P/N 61 35 8 355 812) only for central locking commands "lock" and "double-lock".
- After unlocking is performed due to crash sensor activation, the locking command is now reactivated by double-locking with the key from either the driver's or passenger's door.
- The "one-touch" operation of windows has been expanded to include all four windows in the opening direction. The driver's window still has "one-touch" operation in both opening and closing directions. Interruption of the "one-touch" feature of the driver's window in the closing direction is still accomplished by depressing any window switch (in any direction), or by depressing the sunroof switch in the "tilt" direction (provided the sunroof is not already in the "tilt" position). Interruption of the "one-touch" feature of the sunroof in the closing direction is still accomplished by depressing the sunroof switch (in any direction).
- The switch-off delay of the interior lights which occurs after entering the vehicle and closing the driver's door has been reduced from 20 seconds to 15 seconds.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
I ordered capacitors after reviewing what was on the original board.
It was very hard to read values as the PCB coating has turned brown/red and BMW applied it liberally. That, and I realized if you remove the coating with a small exacto knife it takes whatever ink is on the capacitors with it...
That said I used:
- (1) 100uf 50v
- (2) 47uf 50v
- (1) 220uf 50v
There's also an EMI filter that's basically a disc capacitor with 3 legs and two ferrite beads on it that I did buy but didn't bother to replace yet because being a filter I don't think it's impacting the operation.
Of course it's now like 50F today so I won't know if it's fixed but the car start and runs as usual with the repair in place.
Last edited by 5mall5nail5; 01-12-2018 at 12:53 PM.
Last edited by ross1; 01-12-2018 at 10:56 AM.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
I'm having the same issue on my 95 540i/6, started with the locks malfunctioning when cold and now wont even crank now that the temp is in single digits. I did the heat gun trick on the GM and car starts with everything working correctly. I ordered a used (Ebay) GM and still waiting on it but would like to repair my original since I don't know the condition of the replacement ordered.
Have you been able to verify that this fixed your issue? And thanks for the write up! Great info for an E34 newbie like me! I have come to realize these cars are electrical nightmares...
Caps were not bloated - they are foil type capacitors so they've got kind of like a rolled up piece of paper/film and dielectric foil inside. They felt light, so I fear they dried up but it's hard to say with such small components. I've replaced them with electrolytic capacitors so if/when they do ever fail they will swell.
I believe the module part number I have is 61358368571 and not very common. My car build date is 9/95 so it's pretty late. I think 61358368571 is a "late revision" GM from what I could tell. You can see it's not using so many through-hole components like earlier models.
FWIW the lights no longer flash in the cold and the car starts up great no issues.
My locks still act weird - when I lock the car they all lock, then pop up, and I have to lock again. It's done that for a long long time though.
My car build is also 9/95 and has is the same 61358368571 and that's what I ordered from Ebay. I've read somewhere that GM's ending with 571 are backwards compatible and were the last ones made?
My interior lights are also flashing when cold and lock stop working.
Thanks again!!
Last edited by jsalinas; 01-16-2018 at 01:57 PM.
I had those symptoms and it was 2 fuses under the rear seat. changed them and it fired right up and the locks worked again
If you want your original one repaired let me know. I have extra capacitors of the right spec. My unit is repaired - no more "no start" and no more flashing lights. I am competent with electronics, just let me know.
Def not a fuse in this case unfortunately.
I got the Ebay replacement module in yesterday. Went out to install and car had no interior lights and no crank (temp was single digits), disconnected battery and swapped out modules, car started. Went out this morning (temp in single digits again) car started...so far so good.
I am definitely interested in repairing my old one, I'll send you a PM.
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