Member
I'm finally getting around to fixing the no heat issue in the car. It's a 1995 325IS with 122k on the dash. I just did the heater control valve test with No ohm readings and No action when I do the 9v battery check on the device so I'm sure it's dead and needs to be replaced. So I went and got a replacement from the j/y today. picked a couple and tested with ohm reading of 19 and the 9v test gives me the movement of the plunger I needed to see with intact seals so I'm sure my replacement is good.
Now I haven't gone through the pain staking process of replacing the valve yet but I noticed that I'm not getting any voltage from the wires to the valve. And when I connect the replacement and turn on the heater I get no action from said replacement. Meanwhile back in the car at the controls I see all the lights and dials working and I even hear the flaps moving the compressing engaging etc. etc. Anyone have any ideas on what to check before I install the replacement and I have easy access to everything? Also what is the voltage I should be getting at the wires?
Member
Check all of your fuses
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Member
Eric or anyone else reading this. I know how to check fuses and read the diagram and I know that I checked them but can you or anyone else tell me which fuse(s) they are so I can double check and make sure I didn't miss one? Or is there a fuse that may be associated with the heater that's not listed as such that I may have overlooked?
Member
Fuse 31 5Amp. Download a copy of the Bentley service manual.
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Member
Checked it and even replaced it. Still no voltage to the wires. Is my last hope just to replace the heater control deck underneath the radio?
Member
I'm guessing from the lack of suggestions that the last option is to replace the temperature control device?
Member
Yeah get a used one from ebay or junkyard. Get the BMW number from realoem.com and search ebay by that part number, but some sellers don't list the item by that number so you will have to do more searching.
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One other thing to try you can do a continutiy or resistance check from that fuse to the pin that gets power at the heater valve, resistance should be low like 1 or 2 ohms. Because there's a chance that the wire is bad.
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shade tree mechanic
Moderator
Here are some pics from an E32 heater panel with cracked solder points, could be your prob too: http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1249309/
quote: Fixed IHKA intermittently powering on and off
The fan and the green lights on the IHKA controller switch on and off intermittently. The blending doors were popping open and close every few minutes. Lately it would completely turn itself off for a long time and cut off air circulation so it got to the point I could no longer put up with. It was the solder joints on the controller board beneath the several connectors. Visually at least one pin underneath each connector showed a circular crack around the pin. Re-soldering all the joints (underneath the connectors) fixed the problem.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Member
Sorry for the late reply but I've been getting over a slight health issue. But this sounds like really my last hope to solve this problem. Is there a link around this site that will show me how to remove heater panel?Originally Posted by shogun
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