99 Fern Green - RSI Top Mount - BWs366 - 30-3300 Meth

[NY98M3]

When is the hood going on?

[JPE36M3]

When is the hood going on?

Hood install early next week as well as bumper fitment. Then car gets front end respray and blend, next weekend. Went with dupont, chromabase in OE fern green. Can’t wait to see the car come alive with the new hood

[JPE36M3]

Well, I Need this community's help

After sorting the lean issue with the brake booster, Im now beginning to lose some hope on this build with this issue. Jordan form RKtunes has uploaded over 10 maps trying to figure this issue out. This car will not settle down at idle, its all over the place. Video Attached: if you turn up the volume you will see it stumble when it leans out and smoothen out as it richens up, THERE JUST IS NO ADPATION and no happy medium in idle, the issue is very annoying. I have data logs I can post from a drive AND idling with the BMW Logger program. the car flat out drives amazing, no issues when driving or getting into boost. this is an idle adaption issue, car now has 180 miles on it from the starting point of the build. Ive drove the car hard, ive let the car sit for 30 minutes idling in the driveway... NO changes in idle and no codes.


Butters has been helping me with this one as well, today ill be adding NGK 4554's .026 gap instead of my 4091 .020 gap. And testing all my coils...


(The closest Cliff not to the issue is the injector pulse is out of this world .01 millisecond adjustment's puts the car 12.5 to 16.5 AFRS)


99 s52 with RKtunes / deka 60's / Aeromotive FPR with 51 PSI no vac attached / Re-enforced Max PSI ICV hoses and a fresh clean ICV/ NGK 4091's .020/ Brand new NTK 02 sensor.

(CLICK)




grounding studs? leaks? what would cause this continuous bouncing in AFRS at idle

[vollosso]

Pics of your charge pipes and boost leak test?


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[JPE36M3]

Hey zack

I will post a video of a boost leak test Tuesday when my test coupler arrives. I’ll make sure to include all the charge piping as well. My vibrant coupler is just after the MAF and it seems a little loose, my fabricator said these couplers have flex in them.. my last homemade boost tester wouldn’t hold 20+ PSI But I didn’t see any major leaks...just one around my meth nozzle that put out quarter size bubbles.

[NY98M3]

Try another DME?

[JPE36M3]

Try another DME?

This is my primary suspect to the issue, it just seems to much like an electrical issue, you can almost time it perfectly when it will
Lean out or richen up, almost like clockwork...

What’s the best way to purchase a plug and play DME? eBay?

[328iFun]

Zack probably has a dme

Jordan should have one too though

Doubt that's it

I would test for leaks and possibly another smoke test

A leaky clamp somewhere before the o2 or at the manifold?
Might be causing o2 to read incorrectly

Did you try swapping o2s?

Since the car is running rich on cold cold start and when the o2 is unplugged means that the problem is happening when the o2 is warmed up and the Dme starts adjusting fuel

I would say either

Vacuum/ boost leak
Exhaust leak
Or bad o2

Air leaks are a royal pita

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[vollosso]

This guy right here ^ is getting it figured out

A fun test is to unplug the o2 and see how close the base fueling is.

I know rk removes fuel adaptions.


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[Butters Stoch]

Even with his LTFT's disabled , his STFT's should calm this car down. Basically his factory o2 isnt doing squat. Either harness, o2 or DME. Something is going on. I have also see an intermittent cam sensor screw thing up.
But Jordan mentioned that widening the injector pulse very very slightly threw things all wacky. This shouldn't be the case.

Maybe another thing to check, make sure the fuel pump hose from pump to sender isn't sucking air.
Need both pressure and volume. We only can watch pressure and count on volume.

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[JPE36M3]

The 02 is brand new I just installed it

Unplugged we have 12.5-12.8 AFRS

[vollosso]

The 02 is brand new I just installed it

Unplugged we have 12.5-12.8 AFRS

Hrm...


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[JPE36M3]

Hrm...



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I know man, I spent as much time on research and money on quality parts to NOT BE THIS GUY.... but of course, I’m this guy with the annoying issue sucking up the boards...


Meh, hard to enjoy this car right now.

[vollosso]

Well 12.5 is maxing out the stft if it’s correcting back to stoich.

Are you throwing any codes?


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[JPE36M3]

No codes, nothing is wrong in BOTH of my wiring looms either, I checked under the windshield wipers and fuel injector looms, they both look great. With a new 02 sensor and my DME working properly before this turbo job, its hard to believe I screwed up the DME....

*Would my grounds cause this issue? the one under the glove box down under the carpet, the one that sticks out next to my downpipe next to the 2nd air pump used to be? or the one on the motor mount? or the grounding straps on the coil packs?

*RK mentioned he was going to send 80lb injectors out here and a new tune to see if these siemens 60's are at fault.


Idle behavior with no 02 sensor is great, car is just very rich sits in the mid 12's

[328iFun]

No codes, nothing is wrong in BOTH of my wiring looms either, I checked under the windshield wipers and fuel injector looms, they both look great. With a new 02 sensor and my DME working properly before this turbo job, its hard to believe I screwed up the DME....

*Would my grounds cause this issue? the one under the glove box down under the carpet, the one that sticks out next to my downpipe next to the 2nd air pump used to be? or the one on the motor mount? or the grounding straps on the coil packs?

*RK mentioned he was going to send 80lb injectors out here and a new tune to see if these siemens 60's are at fault.


Idle behavior with no 02 sensor is great, car is just very rich sits in the mid 12's

Why do you need 80's? Aren't you running pump gas?

Your reminding me of myself when I was having problems... I went through all the wiring and was thinking of the most in depth and complicated things. Looking for problem areas I would have never suspected under normal rationale.

I ran without coil straps for a long time and others do as well. I had no problems. The car doesn't sound like its missing I would think that a bad ground at the coils would prevent the car from firing correctly, causing a stumble.

Ground Wires are pretty good on these cars. I checked mine, no problems (your cars cleaner)

Your OBDII DME, so you don't have to open the it up to mess with; install a chip, etc. And the only thing that I could see that could ruin a DME is.

1. ESD (electrostatic discharge) which would be very difficult since you didn't physically touch the circuitry, like OBDI DMEs. The DME would have had to touch an external power source or see a surge from the vehicle (improper / damaged wiring or voltage)
2. Water damage, sometimes the cowls/hood drain areas get clogged and introduce water into the bay, dampening the DME. But your cars been garage kept right?
3. And sometimes just old age... But my thought was that the DME will fail altogether

If you're certain your intake system is free of leaks, I would still go through it again.
-Install vacuum caps on external connections, boost references, brake boster, etc. You want just the manifold to see vacuum, look for a change. If AFRS look better introduce those external items back into the equation one at time. If one of them is creating the problem you'll know which it is. Look for leaks around the injector o-rings. If the injectors aren't lined up correctly or too deep in the socket, they'll leak.

Make sure your O2 is plugged into the correct Bank / Sensor. I messed this up too when I was new (still am new)... Simple but happens. Maybe have Jordan reference another bank/ connector and see if it changes?

Pull the plastic cover off of your engine harness above the fuel and check the wiring. They seem to fray over time. Specifically, check the ground cables going to the fuel rail as they tie into the O2 sensor connectors. If these are damaged the O2 and fuel rail may not work correctly. And you may have a o2 heater circuit code. It takes quite a bit of constant power to heat up an O2 and OBDII cars, which is why I think these ground wires start to fray overtime. I thicker gauge wire may help. (hint, to get the cover off better, get some snips and cut the back of the circle that has the part of the harness that goes to the sensors on engine( on the back of the plastic cover). You'll be able to completely remove it and put it back on. You don't lose anything by cutting the circles). Makes life easier if you have to mess with the fuel rail in the future as well.

Sorry for the long post. I've been where you are and its no fun. Grab some beer and go through the car again. Maybe have a friend come by? Gotta be something simple. Or hell run the car with the O2 unplugged like I did to relieve some stress

Note: Also check cam sensor like Butters suggested. Have you replaced it? The wires will fray inside the connector and ground one another out

[Gmfwd]

I don't know how Jordan or you flash tunes.. but are you clearing adaptions with INPA after flashing a new tune? Ive had similar issues but after clearing codes and adaptions the idle learns pretty quickly in my experience.

[Boostedhoopty]

Another vote for verifying that your O2 sensor is plugged into the correct bank. I have fought driveability issues on another car and it took me a while to figure out what was going on. The fuel trims would just progressively get worse as the sensors told the ecu basically the opposite information

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[wazzu70]

Can you verify the O2 heater is getting power? If the ceramic is not at the right temp your reading will be way off. If you can’t monitor with a scanner tool, make sure the wire is getting voltage.

Just an idea that can cause this even if the O2 is working and plugged into the correct bank.

[bmw328m52]

Don't know if mentioned before but if using RK, you should be using o2 bank closest to firewall. I believe this is bank 1.

[Gmfwd]

If MS41 is like MS42 for o2 sensors, it shouldn't matter what o2 is plugged in, as long as the plugged in configuration matches the software config (1 precat, no post cats).

BUT you must clear adaptions for this to take affect!

[chikinhed]

My RK MS41 tune uses the rear O2 plug

[JPE36M3]

UPDATE:
cars been sorted and running well for a while now, thanks you all for the help and comments!




She hauls ass! I really had no idea what the hell I was building and how fast this thing actually was going to be. With a 3.5" open exhaust, the s366 comes alive sooner then I thought, its enough to enjoy boost in town, really starts getting going near 3600. I will be posting a few videos and getting back on here more. Im glad I recirculated this wastegate, the straight pipe is gnarly.

Right now the car has a 3lb wastegate spring... that was me being cautious, ill have to pull the turbo and install around 8lbs of springs for my MVR to let me run 14-17lbs of Boost on this s52 and truboost. Right now im running a duty cycle of 40% and getting 5-6lbs of boost, which is still a shitload of fun lol and to an NA only person like me, I figured with as hard as the car felt like it was pulling and all the noise the 3.5" exhaust was making it was surely going to explode at rev limit. Im going to enjoy it until I hit the paint booth and get my hood and bumper installed.

[JPE36M3]

IMG_1269 by joe princen, on Flickr

IMG_1273 by joe princen, on Flickr




my buddy who has the 700whp 2014 r35 looked at me after a WOT run and said, that was low boost?



Since the car is running I can finally spend time on my bumper fitment, GTcup lip which I now wish I bought an OEM LTW splitter. And installing my fiberworkz hood.. I also chewed through a set of Fender Liners running no bumper. Gonna need some replacements.

[chikinhed]

I think it’s awesome that you think 5-6 psi is fast. That will buy you a bit of time before you need to upgrade everything.