heres the code, I think I threw the CEL when I was swapping the 02's around, since this ive cleared them and the light has not been on the dash since. right now I am plugged into the 02 port most toward the cabin of the car on top of the engine..
I checked the boot on the sensor side and wires looked fine today. BUT - I did not check the car side of the plug. I will check that tomorrow - its funny you mentioned this as butters voiced concern over these wires as well. thanks.
i would highly suggest you wrap the downpipe. My strut tower cap got so hot it melted to the bolts. Also I have had solder melt for the extended coil wires...and that was WITH the wrap and a shield.
Its nice to see a good build going here...I though the end of the forums was near.
98 Fern Green M3/2 - Precision 6870/AR Designs Twin Scroll/RK/E85
2017 Toyota Tundra Crewmaxx - Family Whip
2011 Pierce 75' Quint - Fire Apparatus West Islip FD
I'm not of much use in the diagnostics, but can tell you the exhaust note in the video you labeled as "super cammed" is awesome. Hopefully it stays even after the issues are resloved!
915whp '98 M3 Sedan /// 37k Mile '95 M3
Your car looks awesome
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Have you verified that the wideband is reading accurately? Usually above 16:1 the car will run rough and would probably stall at 18:1.
Only way I checked was putting a shop towel over the plug full of brake cleaner and it bottomed out at 8.5... then I took the towel away and went to 18
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I have super low vacuum too?
Spark plug color
cam timing was good - rotated crank 2-4 times stopped at O/T and blocks fell in with ease..
downloaded BMWLogger and am waiting for the license so I can register the DME and live data log with someone and figure out what the hells going on.. for now heres the list of codes it pulled - Keep in mind: I did unplug all the spark plug coils one by one to see if they were failing, which probably threw those codes. We also swapped o2's a few days ago so I could have thrown those 02 codes then. but the MAF I never messed with? could this be a bad Maf? giving me a super lean condition causing bad vacuum? also why is it saying I was going 6000+ RPMS when I "unplugged" those coils?
Thats a shit ton of codes to have. Clear them and start over. Have you checked the crank sensor? Are you getting full vanos travel?
I would consult your tuner on this one.
Last edited by NY98M3; 02-05-2018 at 07:27 AM.
98 Fern Green M3/2 - Precision 6870/AR Designs Twin Scroll/RK/E85
2017 Toyota Tundra Crewmaxx - Family Whip
2011 Pierce 75' Quint - Fire Apparatus West Islip FD
Those codes were from testing . clear and restart.
Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
Tuner might not be much of a help with hardware stuff... Especially Jordan, I hear he's quite busy. But who knows
Post the log file on here
The car is not adapting.
Meaning the B1S1 is not correcting A/F mixture.
Stuck in open loop.
If it was at least working, then it would be trying to adapt and he would pop a code for maximum adaption.
Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
Are you certain the O2 is plugged into the correct bank?
Same here. Plastic and solder melted until I wrapped manifold and all piping, even put on a turbo blanket and I can now touch the downpipe with bare hands after a hard run. Difference is huge
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Can the car make it to auburn airfield without being towed? PM me with your phone number I can maybe help with diagnostics
What was your vacuum reading at idle? What cams do you have? If you have S52 cams and the vacuum is below about 19”Hg then you have a cam timing issue or bent valves, if you have Schrick 264/256 cams and the vacuum is below 16”Hg then you have a cam timing issue or bent valves.
Valves can easily get bent if you don’t have both cams in the TDC positions when installing the head on the block when the #1 is at TDC. It is recommended to put #1 piston at 60° ATDC so that all the pistons are far away from TDC until you have the blocks on the cams, then move the crank back to TDC.
Op had cams out when he installed head I believe
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If you install the cams with them in a random position you can easily bend the valves when you tighten the caps down.
Let's not get all worried about blown engines and stuff. Just gremlins that need to be sorted with every build.
Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
Not really. The cam turns at half crank speed and while #1 is at TDC so is #6 but #6 is at overlap, both valve are partially open, and if the cam timing is bang on then we may only have 0.080” - 0.100” clearance depending on cam lift and piston valve relief depths. As the piston is approaching TDC it is chasing the exhaust valve and the intake valve is chasing the piston on its way back down. If your cam is rotated 30° from where it should be which doesn’t seem like much,, that’s the same as 60° of crank rotation. That’s all it would take to contact the valves during assembly and bend them.
Again, the OP said he had low vacuum. What was the vacuum at idle? If there is a big intake leak that was missed during the boost leak check, that could be a major contributing factor here.
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