We tried our best to push him to go for more boost. It did pretty good for 12 psi.
We will get him back out there for more boost one day.
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1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
I forgot to add the GTR has twin GT28rs lol Butterz wasn’t lying when he said these cars are blisteringly fast even just under 500 wheel...
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baby steps, baby steps - Remember I pulled my car up on the dyno over the reminisce of your block lol going after you blew up... sucked.
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How many stock blocks did you say you went through? Lol I’m just not ready to build one yet so I’ve been conservative in Boost pressure
With your oil drain line, what issues were you running into? There's very little room with the BW S366 and RSI manifold, adding in the dump tube and oil drain, I'm worried about the oil drain touching the dump tube. Is that why you used the cummins steel flex line? I can't remember if I read it right, but did you keep AC or delete?
1997 BMW ///M3 - Estoril Sedan 5MT - M-Rain Interior (1 of 1)
2001 BMW ///M3 - Laguna Seca Blue 6MT
YouTube: (///Motorsport Throttle) https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCUM...pYSmibzy5YmUvQ
UPDATE:
I'm currently on 92 octane with 100 percent meth. Ive turned up to 14.5-15PSI on the BW- s366 (66/73) with the stock s52 block. Outside air temperatures are now in the 38-48 degree range and with the 3lb's of PSI since the dyno results, I would assume the car is in 500 wheel range which was my original goal on pump gas. Obviously not what this setup is capable of, but for now I'm happy. The car is exactly what I wanted with a pump gas/stock block combination. A freeway rolling machine. She is laggy but comes on hard!
Issues:
-Unfortunately my timing chain cover is leaking on both sides from top to bottom. A suggested sealant I used did not do its job in grooves. A lesson learned for when I do my finished block, I will use RTV in the grooves and permatex aviation grade sealant on the remaining gasket surfaces. At least this isn't a terrible leak, the dipstick hardly has moved. more annoying than anything.
-With the few extra PSI the car was blowing the plugs out gapped at .026. Zach at 22RPD suggested I gapped them down and sure enough my problems with loosing spark disappeared at 0.019. Cyl. 1 coil pack boot was torn toward the bottom so I replaced that as well.
-I have a set of wheels on the car not designed for this type of build. Semi-stretched 235/40 all season's mounted on 17x9.5's. These wheels have an aggressive ET-20 offset and the car has almost 2 degrees of negative camber in the rear to fit them. It looks good, but it's time for them to go. Im in the limiter all the time now! limiter, limiter, limiter.
(currently Looking for a set of 17x120x9.00" wheels with an offset of ET-30+ or above. The plan is to pair them with some 245 Toyo R888R's which seam to have good reviews and run just .25 or less negative camber. My dream wheel would be a set of AC Schnitzer type I or III's in 2 piece, but they impossible to find.)
Building a block soon
I have a good spare m52 block. Excited in the next few weeks to start the collection of "built block" parts. Will be shopping for a set of JE 86.5mm Pistons. But im unsure of the rod brand to go with. Eagle seems most popular and has been proven into the 900 wheel range but carrilo's are hard to pass if this block is the one. I'm hoping to re-use my s52 crank. Ive been looking at a badass set of cat cams to match with some 1-piece valves for the head. Seems like dropping a valve is most common In the e36 head. The cam durations for cat cams on stock hydraulic lifters:
- Option 2 - 275º/275º - 237º/237º - 11.15mm/11.15mm - 2.05mm/2.65mm
or
Try and find some schricks - 264/256's. these seem like they are always backordered and hard to find..
I want to replace my oil pump housing and rebuild my s52 oil pump. We already did the Achilles solid shaft and sprocket the last time it was out. Also purchase an Achilles pickup tube.
If I use ARP hardware all below, do I need to pull the pan and re-torque everything? after a few heat cycles?
Last edited by JPE36M3; 11-19-2018 at 01:35 AM.
How much did the new leather cost? I called a couple of places to recover my MR2 seats and it was outrageous IMO ($600+/seat, even with me doing some of the labor like pulling the covers).
I thought I buy those 275deg catcams for my e36 turbo build. Should make More power even "under" curve
.
Last edited by mjungbluth; 11-22-2018 at 03:12 AM.
What ended up being the solution to your afr and idle issue?? Having a similar problem with my e36...
No Radio?
There’s only one reason you take a 3.5” straight exhaust with no muffler on the streets with a 67/73mm turbo. That’s to beat the shit out of if. You can’t hear anything but engine and turbo noise so I deleted the radio lol
RIP ear drums.....
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Hallca
Solution was finding the source of my boost leak which was actually coming after the only check valve in the entire engine vacuum assembly. The brake booster. I made a mistake and drilled a hole into the brake booster on a lake night running my meth lines. Replaced the booster. Fix the issue the first time. 2nd time I had a set of injectors shit out and swapped to a 22 RPD tune with his injectors and it fixed my issue
1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
Seems like your still not hooking until 3rd gear. Those cold Seattle days don't help
I've read this thread front to back. Almost following your build exactly.
Any advice to give?
My lower timing chain is extremely tight. Was yours like that?
Beautiful car, and happy boosting!
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