That's the spirit
97 Turbo 3.2L M3 - Cutring / ARP - RSI Top Mount - Gt4088r - ID1300 - Tial WG - 22RPD Tuned - 93 Octane - 3.5" Stainless
98 Fern Green M3/2 - Precision 6870/AR Designs Twin Scroll/RK/E85
2017 Toyota Tundra Crewmaxx - Family Whip
2011 Pierce 75' Quint - Fire Apparatus West Islip FD
I could see an issue if you park outside year round. Thats my only concern
97 Turbo 3.2L M3 - Cutring / ARP - RSI Top Mount - Gt4088r - ID1300 - Tial WG - 22RPD Tuned - 93 Octane - 3.5" Stainless
UPDATE:
so tonight I got a installed a new selector bushing on the ZF that took along time to show up at the house, I was going to install this outside of the car but I got impatient waiting and did it after I installed the motor/trans, it was pretty easy and really tightened up the shifter.
Installed the front clip, and checked radiator tolerances with big turbo and im pleased there is BARELY enough room to leave the expansion tank on the passenger side. A client/friend of mine sent me a SATA3000 HVLP gun. So time to learn how to paint, I have between now and January 18th for the fabricator to wrap up front hood/front end respray..
BTW: I closed my eyes and purchased the hood.... it wasn't cheap. I hate how easy paypal makes spending money.
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with the way you've modded your car with a true OE appearance, this is an aggressive hood, HOWEVER if your looking for super clean looking hood. there is no other hood for these cars. it looks incredible. ill get to painting ASAP.
Last edited by JPE36M3; 01-09-2018 at 01:57 AM.
Wau, good job done over there, am waiting forward for dyno numbers
e39 540i 6speed Supercharged,
E36 v8 m62 with m60 headers, Turbp HX-40 0.6-0.5bar or 9psi, custom exhaust & Turbo manifold, injectors 440cc, ECU Invent EMS-2, Mishimoto Intercooler and oilcooler, etc…
This build will be one of my favorites once done, you are doing everything correct the first time, although I am still a strong advocate for the gt35r setup instead, just because it is a street car, and hey my rods haven't given out yet!
I think the GTR hood was a good buy, it saves some front weight that the turbo maybe offsets if anyone is really worried about it, however like Raji said, there is a slight fit issue, atleast with mine. I believe it is due to me running the stock hood latch over the flush mount hood pins. I just dont like the look of pins to be honest. I have been fighting the fitment on the hood but got it down to really just a small gap above the nose panel. I have been worried about the hood staying shut at high speeds, really only been to 120-130 a couple times, as we are in the wet season in the PNW now. It does allow water in the bay, and unfortunately I did not coat my SPA manifold so it has developed a layer or surface rust to really make the engine bay ugly.
1995 M3 coupe GTX3582R powered
2011 M3 sedan ZCP
you and I both bro! I just got my hands on that sata3000 1.3 HVLP, I have a few panels to practice with before I shoot the bumper, kidneys, new hood, blend fenders doors and roof rails. Tomorrow im constructing a PVC paint booth. Thanks to my buddy being kind enough to gift me a great beginner gun, i didn't wanna skimp out on the paint, so I researched and found the highest recommended paint to match our cars is Dupont chromabase series, we have cold weather here so I went with snap dry chromabase low temp clear reducer and of course a filler/primer for 140k of rock chips. oh man, here we go.. im about to shoot my first car. Anyone on the board here ok with messaging them a few questions on blending metallic base? at least if I jack it up I sand it down with the block sanders and orbital and have someone do it for me.. haha
Last edited by JPE36M3; 01-10-2018 at 02:37 AM.
Sounds like a lot of work. I'll just have my paint car spray the whole car. He does it for a living
Metallic can be unforgiving. I painted my entire car and stripped it to bare metal by myself, first time. Key is prep work. Make sure your surface is as smooth as babies bottom and cleaned properly before spraying.
PVC paint booth is unnecessary. Temperature and humidity are key. Get a fan to blow the paint dust out of your garage when your spraying. If you plan to spray cars for a living or oftenly then yeah a booth would be great to keep that dust from taking over your shop
Metallic coats must be sprayed evenly/perfectly, every coat. And there must a certain amount of coats sprayed for it to be even.
Take your time, and when I say that.... Really - take your time. Its not gonna be easy :-) but is rewarding
UPDATE: sent base tune into RK-tunes. turned key on for first time and tested connections for everything they seem to be working. My VDO's went to max and stayed there but I haven't turned the car over so not sure if they reset once the car is running and giving readings.
scheduled an appointment for a paint booth with a professional painter who will allow me to assist and learn hands on how to paint spray this high metallic fern on my front end and new hood, blending into the doors...
Fabricator for all things piping next Wednesday I cant wait to see his work and finally get the rest of everything hooked up! (wastegate, bov, 02, wide band)
IMG_6769 by joe princen, on Flickr
I need advice on the entire first start procedure... this includes anything to do with this journal bearing turbo. Do I need to take off the feed fittings and pump oil into it? or can I just pull the fuel pump relay and unplug my spark plug harness and crank?
also first drive, I have a new clutch so I understand I may need 300-500 miles of low boost, no redline pulls.. but generally what do you do on your first drive?
any help would be appreciated.
Last edited by JPE36M3; 01-17-2018 at 02:13 PM.
Pull plugs and fuse for fuel pump. Crank til there is oil pressure. Reassemble and start it. No idling. 2K rpms til temp is reached.
Bobby at Total Seal told me not to baby the motor and run it hard. Sort of hard to do when its not tuned and the clutch needs to be broken in. I ran it for 50 miles and gave it some moderate boost. After 100 miles, we made 850+whp on the dyno
Last edited by NY98M3; 01-17-2018 at 02:51 PM.
98 Fern Green M3/2 - Precision 6870/AR Designs Twin Scroll/RK/E85
2017 Toyota Tundra Crewmaxx - Family Whip
2011 Pierce 75' Quint - Fire Apparatus West Islip FD
What a freakin EPIC thread!!!
Thank you so much for all your detail and supporting photos. Most excellent!
SpeedFreak!
SpeedFreak!
aka: Jeremy Harper-Petros
Long-time BMW Enthusiast
Owner, Xtreme Xposure
and Xtreme Aerial FnPS
http://www.HookedOnSpeed.co
Used same method only didn't pull the plugs just the fuse. I had brand new 270/276° cams so once it started, held the rpm 2000-3000 for 20 minutes with drive break in high zinc oil. Flush it and fill up another batch, a few downhill compression runs, flush again and on the dyno.
ok thank you and NY for the advice! I will do so, however im running a stock s52 block on this, I never touched the lower end (I will build my m52 after this is running) do I need to keep those RPMS up like that with 140k lower block and cams? just wondering.
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thanks brother! I got my DSLR running again lol so im gonna load this thread full of some high res insane 3.5" pie cut downpipe pictures this weekend, stay tuned, fuse fabrication is no joke.
UPDATE: over the next few posts ill switch cameras to the DSLR and show you some Fuse Fabrication Weld Porn. he has the car now at his facility in south sound Washington. theses are the last with the iphone7.
I installed front clip and had issues with my oil feed routing hitting the hood, so I flipped the oil feed around. I pulled up all the slack in the line I had, then added the heat sleeving to protect from burning, that particular sleeving is only good to 500 degrees, is it safe to rest against cold side of compressor???
I plan on doing this with all wastegate lines, hopefully no lines touch anything.
Got in touch with Jordan at RKtunes and he has me doing a team viewer tune install were he remote logs into my computer to load the software, im going to do some low boost pulls and get data back to him and he will revise if needed. I also bought a low temperature fan switch for the OE condenser fan to run that bitch 24/7 and try and keep temps down inside engine bay
car getting pulled up on a flat bed, what a mess that was with the diffuser clearances..
AAA services is a must with one of these car builds, im going to burn up so many tows while the car isn't running quite yet, on the way to get the entire piping job done
Last edited by JPE36M3; 01-20-2018 at 02:08 PM.
Can't wait to here this thing roar... such a sweet build.
I'm up in the Bellingham area and am a professional photographer and videographer... where can I find the best sources for meets? I'd like to shoot the local scene. New here from San Diego so trying to get the vibe.
Thnx!
SpeedFreak!
aka: Jeremy Harper-Petros
Long-time BMW Enthusiast
Owner, Xtreme Xposure
and Xtreme Aerial FnPS
http://www.HookedOnSpeed.co
I run 2 aux fans 24/7 and the car stays under the middle point but that's with lower temp therm as well
Especially in cold weather
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Last edited by 328iFun; 01-24-2018 at 07:28 AM.
When is your official start date ?
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Why cant you clock the turbo better for the oil feed? if its about the drain, try a bunch of different fittings to get it right.
98 Fern Green M3/2 - Precision 6870/AR Designs Twin Scroll/RK/E85
2017 Toyota Tundra Crewmaxx - Family Whip
2011 Pierce 75' Quint - Fire Apparatus West Islip FD
That or you could put a 90 off the turbo instead of a straight fitting. Should save you some space.
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