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Thread: Not Another First Turbo Build Thread

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    RI
    Posts
    110
    My Cars
    1994 325is
    So I am having a real hard time getting the trans mounted up. I can get it so the splines are lined up no problem and the transmission feels pretty solidly attached to engine, but stops about half an inch off the block every time. I have taken the pressure plate off and realigned the clutch 3 times but it is the same result and I cant get it to go the rest if the way. I have also checked that the pilot bearing is all the way set in the block. I am guessing it is a pilot bearing issue but don't know what else to do besides realign the clutch.

    Does anyone have any tips or suggestions? I have killed two days wrestling with this on my back and don't know what else to do. I will probably try and realign the clutch and try again tomorrow, but I am getting pretty beat up.

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  2. #52
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Vancouver, B.C., Canada
    Posts
    7,802
    My Cars
    '97 M3
    Make sure there isnít a burr on the end of the input shaft or on the splines where the clutch disc could be hanging up. Try to eyeball the best you can through the center of the PP to see if the disc is centered in relation to the pilot bearing.

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    RI
    Posts
    110
    My Cars
    1994 325is
    Quote Originally Posted by chikinhed View Post
    Make sure there isnít a burr on the end of the input shaft or on the splines where the clutch disc could be hanging up. Try to eyeball the best you can through the center of the PP to see if the disc is centered in relation to the pilot bearing.
    Thanks. I appreciate the help, as i know it is kind of a noob question. The plastic alignment tool had a good quarter to half inch of slop to it, so I have been trying to eyeball it. I have done it a few times but could still manage to be off. I will keep on trying today, and make sure the input shaft is burr free.


    Edit. I just got it! Made some guide studs, and took a lot of care to make sure the clutch was perfectly centered and it popped into place after only a few wiggles. Surfed 5 hours in the wintersuit last few days right before wraastling the tranny, which didnt help the shoulder strength either. Again, appreciate the input on stupid questions. I am new to this and don't have any friends who work on cars so have little experience to draw from. It feels good to complete each step and learn. I also bolted the manifold to the head, so am making some progress.
    Last edited by drstuess; 04-15-2018 at 01:26 PM.

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    RI
    Posts
    110
    My Cars
    1994 325is
    Been away for a while, so haven't been able to work on the car much. I did get the head on today, with 13 of 14 nuts torqued to ~25ftlbs. Long story short, but I was jetlagged and up at 4 am, the decided to put the head on. Everything went well until zombie me dropped a stud into one of the water passages. Thing got really lodged in there, but after a few hours and some quick set epoxy on the end of a long allen key I was able to unlodge it and walk it back up.

    Unfortunately, the stud has some thread damage so I should probably get a new one. Does ARP or any shops sell individual studs for our engines? I see a few on summit, but not for e36.

    Also, have to thank 328ifun for the inspiration, as I followed his lead in hoisting the head down. It made the process much easier to do solo with the cutrings.

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    Last edited by drstuess; 05-11-2018 at 10:33 AM.

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    RI
    Posts
    110
    My Cars
    1994 325is
    Two questions.
    1. Intercooler: was just gonna go treadstone 1235. Is this overkill or fine?
    2.looking to learn to weld for this. Would a standard lincoln/ Hobart $400 Mig be fine for welding exhaust and intercooler brackets etc? I would probably just take intercooler piping to a shop to get welded for BOV and MAF.

    I appreciate any input.



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  6. #56
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Concord, NH
    Posts
    21,133
    My Cars
    08 E90M3; 99 E36M3 Turbo
    1235 is a good intercooler but 12 inches is a tight fit. A 1035 fits easier. How much intercooler do you need?

    Most people start with a new or used entry level mig in the 135-140 amp range like you list. A gas capable one is ideal. Get some lessons from someone who knows how to use it well and then practice. I have an Eastwood. Harbor Freight makes what look like decent welders now in the Vulcan line. And there are a few of the cheap Chinese ones on eBay that seem to be decent quality but do research first.

    If you practice enough you can make your IC pipes and fittings. A bandsaw like the Swag portaband works pretty well for cutting pipe at angles but you can also use a messy abrasive disc cutoff saw from Harbor Freight.

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    RI
    Posts
    110
    My Cars
    1994 325is
    Quote Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
    1235 is a good intercooler but 12 inches is a tight fit. A 1035 fits easier. How much intercooler do you need?

    Most people start with a new or used entry level mig in the 135-140 amp range like you list. A gas capable one is ideal. Get some lessons from someone who knows how to use it well and then practice. I have an Eastwood. Harbor Freight makes what look like decent welders now in the Vulcan line. And there are a few of the cheap Chinese ones on eBay that seem to be decent quality but do research first.

    If you practice enough you can make your IC pipes and fittings. A bandsaw like the Swag portaband works pretty well for cutting pipe at angles but you can also use a messy abrasive disc cutoff saw from Harbor Freight.
    Thanks. I am only going for about 400 hp so it looks like the 1035 should be more than enough.

    I just ordered a cheapish gas compatible Lincoln that gets good reviews and should fit my basic needs. Going to wire a dedicated 20 amp outlet in the garage today, using only 1 pole of a 2 pole breaker I have free. That way in a while if I get to the limitations of this welder and get good I can upgrade to a higher quality and power 208/240v one down the road.

    Also, an aside, I find it weird/funny that a lot of welders are called 110v, 115v, or 220 v when utilities don't even supply 110, 115, or 220 anymore.


    Edit: head fully torqued:/ cams and vanos installed, and treadstone 1035 ordered. Feel like I am starting to make some progress.
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    Last edited by drstuess; 05-15-2018 at 08:56 PM.

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    RI
    Posts
    110
    My Cars
    1994 325is
    Been a minute since I updated, but things are going pretty well. Clocked and installed the salad shooter and made some brackets and install the intercooler. Overall pretty happy with the bracket fab and install, given its my first go at welding. Ain't the prettiest welds, but will do.

    Charge pipes arrive this week, so starting to see some brightness at the end of the tunnel and getting pretty excited.

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  9. #59
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    RI
    Posts
    110
    My Cars
    1994 325is
    3/4 of charge piping and oil feed line done, plus got valve cover and some accessories back on. Just waiting for a few parts to get the piping and oil/ coolant lines done.

    Remaining items to purchase/do...

    BOV - Tial 50 mm
    Wastegate- Tial 38 mm
    Gauges/ boost control- probably innovate scg-1
    Tune- probably Technica, or TRM
    Weld up an exhaust
    Fuel pump- maybe Walboro 255 but don't know so suggestions welcome.

    Also, if anyone has a 4 bolt zf driveshaft and zf selector rod (or any of the abive in good condition) I am looking to buy ( in New England area if it matters).



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  10. #60
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    RI
    Posts
    110
    My Cars
    1994 325is
    Coming along. A little gluttonous with the clamps, but it is the one downside of the CES metal intake elbows. Next thing on the checklist is to weld up a downpipe and exhaust. First time, so should be fun!!

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  11. #61
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    RI
    Posts
    110
    My Cars
    1994 325is
    Went to do my intake piping, and it is a really tight squeeze with the Rally road motor mount, even with a 4 in to 3 in reducer. Anyone else have clearance trouble? I may be able to massage it a little to make it work, but wonder if there is a better way. Something like a spacer on the motor

    Update,
    As I am sure many of you are waiting with bated breath. I was able to contort, cock (balls), and deform the 4 to 3 inch coupler enough to get a 3 inch pipe into it at a downward angle. I then snaked it up and to freedom, to await a 90 degree coupler and filter.

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    Last edited by drstuess; 06-27-2018 at 08:08 PM.

  12. #62
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    RI
    Posts
    110
    My Cars
    1994 325is
    Exhaust is welded, except mounting provisions. The axelback section is a Corsa axelback I added a y pipe to. Getting a little better with the welder, which is nice, but i still need some improvement in the aesthetics department. I also picked up a decent zf from a junk yard. Unfortunately my getrag one is in prime shape and this one has some surface rust on it. Do I risk throwing it out of balance with a sand and spray paint?


    Getting towards the end game; now I just need to find time and budget a few more dollarbucks to bring her home.

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    Last edited by drstuess; 07-29-2018 at 07:03 PM.

  13. #63
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Vancouver, B.C., Canada
    Posts
    7,802
    My Cars
    '97 M3
    There are two different Railroad engine mounts. It looks like you have the low one, you need the high one.
    '97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.

  14. #64
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    RI
    Posts
    110
    My Cars
    1994 325is
    Quote Originally Posted by chikinhed View Post
    There are two different Railroad engine mounts. It looks like you have the low one, you need the high one.
    Thanks! Yeah I see that now. The low one says it should work with a SPA manifold, but keep the option of above sub frame piping. But, like everything, it seems there is a trade off. The website says "easily allows for up to a 3.5", so I thought I should be more than fine with 3 inch. Maybe a non-centered 4 to 3 inch coupler/ adapter would allow 3.5 inch, or a more deft fabricator than myself. Either way, no worries, just hope these pictures help someone else who has the same question.

    For now, I have the 3 inch intake piping fitting without crushing, just angled down slightly to start. I am going to get it running as is, but keep it in the back of my mind if I have any symptoms that could point to an intake restriction.

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  15. #65
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    RI
    Posts
    110
    My Cars
    1994 325is
    Mounted up and wired the Innovate SCG-1. Didn't wanna throw any money at it, so chopped up the center vent. Came out decent, but I might go back with some sanding and paint to get the fit and finish a touch better. But I really like the easy access (yet could be hidden in vent) nature of the output cables for logging.

    Overall, very close. Fuel pump, tune (both ordered) and getting the MAF and BOV flanges TIG'd up are all that are left on ye olde to do list.

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